I'll have to look into it today

 

How do you clean your MAF?

 

You beat me to asking the question. LOL

How do you clean your MAF?

 

I use the CRC Maf cleaner, use the straw and spray at the sensor. Not a whole lot just a quick spray. Then I let it sit for 45min to an hour before I restart the car.

I've always used it, on all cars with no problems. Before I used it on the evo I did a quick research on here and alot of guys clean with the crc with great results.

 

Yeah the crc works good.

 

Ahh It may be my maf. With the car running, if I move the maf the idle changes.

 

Bump.

At idle, if I just gently move the maf the car stalls.

I'm used to that being a sign that the maf is bad, is it the same for evos?

 

That could be your problem. Maf measures air flow and baro to help determine load cells. I'll bet your a/f logged are off during the stutter. Boost cut could be the result you're experiencing.

 

So with the evo, like other cars with a maf(even wired mafs) shouldn't stall if you tap or move the maf?

I know I've had an airflow problem since on cold starts, wideband reads lean and idle surges for a few minutes. While I'm clean of boost leaks. Could never find out the reason.

Hopefully a new maf cures the problem.

Thank you!

 

One of the reason I switched to speed density was to elimitate the maf. I don't think it will stall out if you tap it or adjust it.

The evo maf is efficient but not known to be that sensitive to movement. If it was 98% of the members on this forum would be on speed density or some sort of standalone.

I'll bet you'll need to tweak your tune once you get that maf replaced.

 

Lol, yeah definitely no one would stand that crap. Yup and tune will be tweaked from a combo of fixes, my tb seals were recently replaced too.

I'll eventually switch to SD, my friend sold his Evo and has all that I need. I'm still weary over the bad jitter. Cause I'm always cruising between 2-3k.

 

Bump!

Was on the thruway today, hesitation started up again it happens in 4th, 5th and 6th. I also watched my wideband when it hesitates the a/f goes full lean.

Pulled over, turned car off and moved maf upwards cause it was sitting at an angle.

Hopefully it is the maf, ordered a low mileage one last week.

 

How are your ignition wires and plugs? Also make sure your intake pipe is not cracked or the seal for the MAF is not leaking a little. I was doing a boost leak test and after the car ran like crap in certain gears. Turns out I put the MAF on just a bit **** eyed and it allowed more air to come in after the MAF and my AFR gauge also read lean when it bucked.

Athanasios

 

I have a spoolinup COP that's about 2 months old along with the plugs. Intake pipe is good, cause I was having the problem with a samco intake pipe and the stock pipe.

It's possible the maf seal is fudged cause it's pretty old. But I seriously think the maf is done.

I recall when I cleaned the maf I sprayed the little red heater by accident, that may have done it.

 

Thats not a heater, its most likely a photo transistor. Our MAF's are karmen Vortex types which use a photo coupler which usually is a LED and photo transistor.

The Air entering the Sensor passes a vortex generator which causes a disturbance in the air flow, then as this eddy flow of air passes, it's pulses bounce off a thin film mirror which will change the direction of light hitting the transistor at the frequency of the
air pulse. The transistor then sends a voltage signal that the ECU.

But the tap test is the way to diagnose it or if you have an oscilloscope you can apply power to the MAF and blow air trough it and see if its registering the frequency correctly.

So it could be one of the main three parts are not working the mirror is too dirty, the light source is not efficient or the transistor is bad.

Ok I went a little too much in detail there !

Athanasios