I have a new Exedy twin plate (pull-style) clutch that was installed as well as engine etc. Well the shop that put the car back together gave it back to me with a bad battery and did not let me know that it was bad (they knew when they turned it on). Well long story short car got stuck on a hill, someone was kind enough to give me a jump, and to avoid the car turning off again I had to rev up to avoid it stalling out due to low voltage.

Well the clutch engagement point was normal and now its really high. I also cannot get passed third gear and 3100 rpm without the car bogging; if I accelerate too fast the rev's shoot up like its slipping. Here's the odd part the clutch is new and there isn't a hint of a scent of clutch burning when it shoots up. I've had clutches fail before and they smell like absolut crap, but there isn't any smell anywhere. Can anyone figure out what my problem is?

I was trying to tune clutch-in before the hill and the car would just turn off I'm assuming this is because of the ISCV's and a heaving clutch with my rotating mass. However, it wanted to do the same once I flashed a new tune on it. Clutch-in = car shuts off. The person who inspected my car also pulled the clutch cable (I don't know if that has anything to do with the shutting off).

Thanks for any input you guys may have.

 

It sounds almost like you lost your tune and your clutch in one shot.

 

Hmmm, so there wouldn't be any smell if the clutch was dead? How can I just lose my tune?

 

Bump, anyone?

 

If the car is stalling when you press the clutch in it could be worn thrust bearings. Worn thrust bearings on a pull type clutch would cause the clutch pedal to move upward, (push type clutch will move downward) Did you have a performance clutch installed before that Exedy twin? Also, how many miles are on it?

What I'm thinking happened is that starting up the engine with a performance clutch for such and such amount of time caused the crank to walk. (ie; thrust bearings are bad) If you find that the car is shutting off when you depress the clutch it could be the crank moving too far away from the crank position sensor for it to read it properly, therefore thowing off spark thus stalling the engine out.

 

if the engagement point is high on the pedal, it might not be fully engaging. Have you tried any type of pedal adjustments? bleed the line?

 

True, I didn't know if he's replaced the battery or tested the alternator yet, if its got super low voltage that could throw some oddities into the mix here

 

This is also true. But raising the clutch engagement point without producing the burning smell has nothing to do with low voltage. However, it could be two different things; possibilities of it being two things at once are low. Know what I mean?

 

yea for sure, perhaps they missed more than one thing at the shop..

 

You're clutch is ruined. There is either fluid on the disc or its damaged/faulty installation. You WILL NOT SMELL a cerametallic clutch like the EXEDY as it is not like the organic clutches that smell when they burn. Your clutch is being ruined right now so get it out of there for inspection ASAP by a qualified shop.

 

I've replaced the battery and still the same thing. Now the new battery is dead from it dying and being restarted. It's starting to sound like crank walk as D-VO said. I don't know the engine, trans, and clutch have around 50 miles on it.

 

wow that's odd, is the alternator even charging it or does it just not stay running to charge? can you toss a voltmeter on it to see if you're getting 14.4v when the car is running?

 

I was using the MR gauge to see if the car was getting 14.4v and I don't think it was. The alternator may be dead as well. This is just weird. I for the life of me can't seem to figure out the clutch issue. If it were the clutch fork or the retaining clip I could not get into gear.

If it were crankwalk the car likely wouldn't start at all. Here's what I'm about to do though:

-Check for crankwalk: pull the serpentine belts and see if the pulley moves in and out (I really doubt this is the problem).
-Test the alternator
-check fluid in clutch reservoir

Could the other possibility for the clutch having a high engagement point be air in the system?

 

Just rule out the obvious first, bleed the clutch line good, replace the alternator if its not charging, adjust the clutch pedal if the engagement is too high, then see what it's doing, that's how I would proceed...

 

I realize this may sound silly, but did you check the alternator voltage when car was running? When its off you will only see around 12ish volts.

The car will still start if its crank walk. If the thrust bearings are really bad like more than a millimeter of play then you'll have a hard time starting it. The best way to check for it is to remove the flywheel's dust cover to see if it has any play using a pry bar. I'm really only pushing this to be safe. It really sucks to have to rebuild an engine because of a faulty 15$ part.

Does the clutch position move or is it always just staying in the up postion?