Oem Crank Damper vs Aftermarket Damper?
The information in this thread is very poor. Most people don't even understand the function of one. Having something to absorb the engines vibrations is a very good idea and increases longevity no matter what. The weight of one has such a small effect on performance it's ridiculous.
I'd run a fluidampr on any built motor, the OEM one was designed around the factory engine and power levels.
I'd run a fluidampr on any built motor, the OEM one was designed around the factory engine and power levels.
and its not so much the power levels, as the harmonics produced by the stock motor -- with balance shafts.
The information in this thread is very poor. Most people don't even understand the function of one. Having something to absorb the engines vibrations is a very good idea and increases longevity no matter what. The weight of one has such a small effect on performance it's ridiculous.
I'd run a fluidampr on any built motor, the OEM one was designed around the factory engine and power levels.
I'd run a fluidampr on any built motor, the OEM one was designed around the factory engine and power levels.
Does the difference in vibration from a stock balancer to an aftermarket one really extend the life of an engine? Would be curious to see some actual test data. I am in no way claiming it wouldn't help, but I would be curious to know by how much. Also at what power level is this detrimental? Unfortunately most people never install one, so it would be hard to compare against the stocker.
I have been running over 400hp in this stock engine for 85000 miles now and over 500hp for the last 35000 miles. We will see how long it lasts as that is certainly no where near stock power levels.
Last edited by fre; Jul 25, 2011 at 11:29 AM.
I personally have one and I can say this, my motor makes 630whp is a 2.0lr with ams balance shaft eliminator is revved to 9k+.
With a solid engine mount on the front I do not have any extreme vibrations, With that said I I believe if you are going to have a stock motor pushing 400whp you dont need it. If you are going to build a motor and go for 500+ why would you not want something that makes your high strung 4cyl engine more reliable by eliminating some of the harmful vibrations that cause bearing failure, not to mention slightly increase horsepower.
With a solid engine mount on the front I do not have any extreme vibrations, With that said I I believe if you are going to have a stock motor pushing 400whp you dont need it. If you are going to build a motor and go for 500+ why would you not want something that makes your high strung 4cyl engine more reliable by eliminating some of the harmful vibrations that cause bearing failure, not to mention slightly increase horsepower.
The information in this thread is very poor. Most people don't even understand the function of one. Having something to absorb the engines vibrations is a very good idea and increases longevity no matter what. The weight of one has such a small effect on performance it's ridiculous.
I'd run a fluidampr on any built motor, the OEM one was designed around the factory engine and power levels.
I'd run a fluidampr on any built motor, the OEM one was designed around the factory engine and power levels.
Last edited by awdordie; Aug 3, 2011 at 11:07 AM.
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That is the problem with THIS topic. There is no "proof" because its so hard to prove. Its like why some stock cars make more then others? How do you prove why?
The general consensus is that they are better then stock once you remove balance shafts and change the harmonics of the stock motor, because they adapt to all, both new and old vibrations created by the new setup.
How much better? Meh. How much do you gain from adding a thermal gasket between your head and intake manifold? Is it better? Yeah. How much better? Who knows.
Stock damp here on my drag car. I have seen way to many cars lose a motor because of aftermarket damps. It is not worth it if you ask me. A lot of them tend to fail. I have a 2.4 and it is very "vibby" and the OEM is working just fine. I'm not to nice to my motor either.
Mikey
Mikey
Stock damp here on my drag car. I have seen way to many cars lose a motor because of aftermarket damps. It is not worth it if you ask me. A lot of them tend to fail. I have a 2.4 and it is very "vibby" and the OEM is working just fine. I'm not to nice to my motor either.
Mikey
Mikey
The only failures from dampners I have ever seen was those cheap *** light weight crank pullys(that arent even dampners) from ebay.
Does anyone have any link, to any forum, on any car, of a fluidampr/ati failing?
Do you understand where I was coming from though? Obviously you dont know that it is better or worse then oem. Ive actually seen OEM ones from dsms SPIN, such that the timing marks no longer lined up because the two parts slid on the rubber mating surface.
The only failures from dampners I have ever seen was those cheap *** light weight crank pullys(that arent even dampners) from ebay.
Does anyone have any link, to any forum, on any car, of a fluidampr/ati failing?
The only failures from dampners I have ever seen was those cheap *** light weight crank pullys(that arent even dampners) from ebay.
Does anyone have any link, to any forum, on any car, of a fluidampr/ati failing?
If building a motor i would buy a new oem damper at least. Dont use an old beat up one. Also if doing a 2.3l order a damper from a 2.4l car. Rubber ages so an old damper should be replaced if there is any cracking.





