Vibration/Whine after 4k - Timing Belt Change -
Vibration/Whine after 4k - Timing Belt Change -
So I'll leave the shop I went to nameless..... for now.
Anyway I had them do a timing belt service. (all necessary belts, water pump, seals etc.) Car drives fine below 4k. Took it up to about 6k and the car vibrates and whines. Did a search online and it appears to be the balance shaft out of phase/adjustment. I'm taking it back, but do you think this is something they can fix quickly or is it another all day job?
I will say this.... I should have taken it to FFTEC. But they were currently busy moving to a new shop and if I only waited 1 more day they probably could have took me in.
Anyway I had them do a timing belt service. (all necessary belts, water pump, seals etc.) Car drives fine below 4k. Took it up to about 6k and the car vibrates and whines. Did a search online and it appears to be the balance shaft out of phase/adjustment. I'm taking it back, but do you think this is something they can fix quickly or is it another all day job?

I will say this.... I should have taken it to FFTEC. But they were currently busy moving to a new shop and if I only waited 1 more day they probably could have took me in.
Oil pump sprocket 180 out. Timing belt needs to come off.
Then either a screwdriver into inspection hole on front of block or the put it at 12O'Clock and see which way it wants to turn trick. From 12O'clock the OP Sprocket needs to wanna fall CC to be in phase
Then either a screwdriver into inspection hole on front of block or the put it at 12O'Clock and see which way it wants to turn trick. From 12O'clock the OP Sprocket needs to wanna fall CC to be in phase
Ok so I just got back from the shop..... apparently he "double checked" the balance shaft belt and adjusting sprocket during install as he knows how easily it is to mess up. Anyway the loud "whine" is resonating from my straight pipe. The engine itself isn't vibrating but there is vibration/weird sound resonating from my test pipe which was NOT there before the job.
So here's a break down:
Idle is fine.
Spikes to about 22-23 psi before tapering to 18 or so like before.
Revs do NOT hang
Engine itself isn't vibrating
LOUD WHINE/RATTLE coming from Straight pipe, We revved it and you can clearly see/hear it coming from the straight pipe. WTF???????
Driving below 4k is smoother than before for sure. But it does kind of make sense why I feel engine feedback around my shift since the straight pipe is right under it and is rattling/whine/vibration<< not sure how to describe.
Any thoughts? The shop I originally TOOK it to is very reputable and the owner has been nothing but patient and even did some freebies for me. But it's nerve racking that this sound was NOT there before and here it is....
So here's a break down:
Idle is fine.
Spikes to about 22-23 psi before tapering to 18 or so like before.
Revs do NOT hang
Engine itself isn't vibrating
LOUD WHINE/RATTLE coming from Straight pipe, We revved it and you can clearly see/hear it coming from the straight pipe. WTF???????
Driving below 4k is smoother than before for sure. But it does kind of make sense why I feel engine feedback around my shift since the straight pipe is right under it and is rattling/whine/vibration<< not sure how to describe.
Any thoughts? The shop I originally TOOK it to is very reputable and the owner has been nothing but patient and even did some freebies for me. But it's nerve racking that this sound was NOT there before and here it is....
The oil pump sprocket is not in phase. They need to fix it. Its not your exhaust. see here and have your mechanic start at step 23. And note the easy way to do it in the notes under figure 13.
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html
This is your issues this is what they need to fix
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html
This is your issues this is what they need to fix
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UPDATE:
FFTEC called me today and I'm taking my car there tomorrow! Finally gonna get it done right. I'll try to have pics/documents showing what the F is wrong.
Then I'll deal with the original shop...... and get some compensation for all this time wasted.
Word to the wise..... get it done right the first time WITH the RIGHT PEOPLE/PLACE.
TBC........
FFTEC called me today and I'm taking my car there tomorrow! Finally gonna get it done right. I'll try to have pics/documents showing what the F is wrong.
Then I'll deal with the original shop...... and get some compensation for all this time wasted.
Word to the wise..... get it done right the first time WITH the RIGHT PEOPLE/PLACE.
TBC........
Update: Virbration/Whine after 4k rpm
So I just got my car back.
Findings:
Rear Balance Shaft Tensioner was not adjusted correctly causing excessive play with the balance shaft belt.
The timing belt tensioner pulley was also too tight causing the hydraulic tensioner to extend approx. 8mm (factory value adjustments allow for only 3.8-4.5mm)
Oil pump sprocket WAS out of phase.
All ISSUE's resolved and no damage done to the car other than wasting MY TIME and $$$.
Car is back like it was before
Findings:
Rear Balance Shaft Tensioner was not adjusted correctly causing excessive play with the balance shaft belt.

The timing belt tensioner pulley was also too tight causing the hydraulic tensioner to extend approx. 8mm (factory value adjustments allow for only 3.8-4.5mm)
Oil pump sprocket WAS out of phase.

All ISSUE's resolved and no damage done to the car other than wasting MY TIME and $$$.
Car is back like it was before
Unfortunately it's hard to get work done right these days. Nobody makes money taking their time, so they rush it. Then, they don't want to waste even more time and money fixing something. It's bull****, but this is the problems we face in today's economy. Sometimes the old saying "if you want it done right, do it yourself" is just perfect for situations like this.
So I just got my car back.
Findings:
Rear Balance Shaft Tensioner was not adjusted correctly causing excessive play with the balance shaft belt.
The timing belt tensioner pulley was also too tight causing the hydraulic tensioner to extend approx. 8mm (factory value adjustments allow for only 3.8-4.5mm)
Oil pump sprocket WAS out of phase.
All ISSUE's resolved and no damage done to the car other than wasting MY TIME and $$$.
Car is back like it was before
Findings:
Rear Balance Shaft Tensioner was not adjusted correctly causing excessive play with the balance shaft belt.

The timing belt tensioner pulley was also too tight causing the hydraulic tensioner to extend approx. 8mm (factory value adjustments allow for only 3.8-4.5mm)
Oil pump sprocket WAS out of phase.

All ISSUE's resolved and no damage done to the car other than wasting MY TIME and $$$.
Car is back like it was before

good to hear you got it all fixed with no issues. Makes sense, the whine was from the belt and the vibration from the oil pump out of phase.
I have done my own belt 3 times now and you are suppose to get the tensioner to the point where the grenade pin can slide in and out without any tension on it after turning the engine over several times. Basically you should be able to pull the pin and get it back in without any friction or issues.
It is easy to keep the oil pump in phase if you just make sure not to move it when replacing the belt. I agree with the previous comment though, this is why I do all my own work when possible or take it to a local guy that works exclusively on these engines when the work is past my abilities.
Wouldn't overtightening the pulley cause almost no rod extension? It would make more sense that the tensioner pulley was too loose if the tensioner was extending further than it should have been.
I have done my own belt 3 times now and you are suppose to get the tensioner to the point where the grenade pin can slide in and out without any tension on it after turning the engine over several times. Basically you should be able to pull the pin and get it back in without any friction or issues.
It is easy to keep the oil pump in phase if you just make sure not to move it when replacing the belt. I agree with the previous comment though, this is why I do all my own work when possible or take it to a local guy that works exclusively on these engines when the work is past my abilities.
I have done my own belt 3 times now and you are suppose to get the tensioner to the point where the grenade pin can slide in and out without any tension on it after turning the engine over several times. Basically you should be able to pull the pin and get it back in without any friction or issues.
It is easy to keep the oil pump in phase if you just make sure not to move it when replacing the belt. I agree with the previous comment though, this is why I do all my own work when possible or take it to a local guy that works exclusively on these engines when the work is past my abilities.
After spending a day with the mechanic, I actually feel comfortable doing the belt on my own now. I've done Honda B Series a couple times but with the EVO I just wasn't comfortable with it till now. I too will be doing this myself or of course FFTEC to the rescue.






