Remove/replace front O2 sensor - Tips?
Aug 9, 2011, 08:22 AM
#1
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Remove/replace front O2 sensor - Tips?
Yes, i know the general plan of attack. I have a 7/8" o2 socket (22ish mm), which i blelieve is correct, and plenty of pb blaster, as well as a breaker bar.
now heres the parts i haven't been able to clarify:
-Does the lower heat shield need to come off?
-can the lower heatshield actually be removed with the radiator in place or not (ive seen both answers)?
-Can it be done from the top, or must you get under the car? (it seems there is very little space from the top...)
basically im trying to do this in my parking lot, and the smoother it goes the better...
now heres the parts i haven't been able to clarify:
-Does the lower heat shield need to come off?
-can the lower heatshield actually be removed with the radiator in place or not (ive seen both answers)?
-Can it be done from the top, or must you get under the car? (it seems there is very little space from the top...)
basically im trying to do this in my parking lot, and the smoother it goes the better...
Aug 9, 2011, 08:24 AM
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For me, it was a *itch to take out. I had to remove the raditor, torch that motha **er for a good minute then it would break loose.
You could try not removing anything, but you will definetely need a swivel wrench.
The easiest way is to remove the radiator and from memory the head shield also.
Good luck
You could try not removing anything, but you will definetely need a swivel wrench.
The easiest way is to remove the radiator and from memory the head shield also.
Good luck
Aug 9, 2011, 08:26 AM
#3
Heatshield does not "need" to be removed, there's a hole it will slide out of. (easier with it out tho)
I think it can be bent/mangled to make it out but doesn't the wastegate arm come through it also? (I haven't had a stock turbo set-up in a while so I forgot)
Yes it can be done from the top.
Pull the mani heatshield to give yourself more socket room. When hot soak it with pb blaster, let it get warm, not totally cold, put the socket on there and break it loose. Sometimes there isn't room to get a socket plus wrench on the end so most have a 6 sided end to put a long handle open ended wrench around (22mm end also I believe).
I think it can be bent/mangled to make it out but doesn't the wastegate arm come through it also? (I haven't had a stock turbo set-up in a while so I forgot)
Yes it can be done from the top.
Pull the mani heatshield to give yourself more socket room. When hot soak it with pb blaster, let it get warm, not totally cold, put the socket on there and break it loose. Sometimes there isn't room to get a socket plus wrench on the end so most have a 6 sided end to put a long handle open ended wrench around (22mm end also I believe).
Aug 9, 2011, 08:55 AM
#4
Do yourself a favor and just pull the radiator...it takes only 5-10 min to drain and remove. I actually ruined my oem radiator by trying to remove the o2 sensor with it in place.
Are you removing the stock o2 housing? Or just replacing the 02 sensor? If you are swapping out the housing, it might be easier to just leave the sensor attached to the housing, disconnect the harness from the valve cover and tackle the sensor once the housing is off the car, where you will have free range of motion.
My original sensor would not come free (aroud 30k miles on the car at the time) so I just pulled the housing with the sensor attached. Then I bolted the housing to a piece of 1/2" scrap wood and showed it who was boss.
The overall message is to be safe and remove the rad...it will make the job much easier and will save you from potentially damaging the radiator
Are you removing the stock o2 housing? Or just replacing the 02 sensor? If you are swapping out the housing, it might be easier to just leave the sensor attached to the housing, disconnect the harness from the valve cover and tackle the sensor once the housing is off the car, where you will have free range of motion.
My original sensor would not come free (aroud 30k miles on the car at the time) so I just pulled the housing with the sensor attached. Then I bolted the housing to a piece of 1/2" scrap wood and showed it who was boss.
The overall message is to be safe and remove the rad...it will make the job much easier and will save you from potentially damaging the radiator
Aug 9, 2011, 09:16 AM
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Only doing sensor, not full housing. Sensor in there is outputting less than .5 volts and causing headaches trying to tune.
Radiator coming out is not an option with my current situation. I had been planning to stack cardboard against it and give it a shot, but its seemling like it may be futile to even try.
Ill either have to wait till i can go to my parents house with my full garage...or be super lame and pay a shop i guess.
Radiator coming out is not an option with my current situation. I had been planning to stack cardboard against it and give it a shot, but its seemling like it may be futile to even try.
Ill either have to wait till i can go to my parents house with my full garage...or be super lame and pay a shop i guess.
Last edited by killerpenguin21; Aug 9, 2011 at 09:20 AM.
Aug 9, 2011, 10:21 AM
#6
I also pulled the radiator and used a propane torch to heat it up but it was no problem with the heat shield in place. If you're not going to pull the radiator then the best shot might be to drive the car around and get the exhaust nice and hot. Just don't burn yourself on the exhaust.
Aug 9, 2011, 10:54 AM
#7
Lots of pb blaster and keep heating it and cooling it with pb blaster and then take a torch and heat around the sensor but not the sensor or the threads themselves then try. Its a whole lot easier to do with the o2 housing out of the car and how I done mine. When you reinstall the new one make sure to use a little more antiseize than what comes on the threads to avoid this again.
