Where to get tools?
#1
Where to get tools?
OK, I'm stuck on ripping apart my motor. So far, everything is off except for the gears for the timing belt and balance shaft. What tool did you guys use to remove these gears? I know there's a manual out there with specific tools you can buy at the dealership but I just want to buy them at a local hardware store.
OK, NVM about the dealer. They don't have it...
OK, NVM about the dealer. They don't have it...
Last edited by Piro Fyre; Sep 8, 2011 at 02:35 PM.
#4
impact and a socket?
I know that on mazda's they give you a spot where a regular wrench fits on the cam to stop it from rotating if you are using a regular socket.
I think that's how it is on evo's as well. It's been a while since I took a 4g63 apart.
I know that on mazda's they give you a spot where a regular wrench fits on the cam to stop it from rotating if you are using a regular socket.
I think that's how it is on evo's as well. It's been a while since I took a 4g63 apart.
Last edited by fortyPSIrs; Sep 8, 2011 at 04:53 PM.
#5
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (22)
piro you mean the cam gears on the cam shafts? if so.. you use a big wrench on the cam and break the bolt loose at the end of the cam gear.
you could of just locked the car in gear tho before tearing everything apart and broke em loose that way tho. or put a 1/2 drive on the crank bolt against the garage floor and broke it loose that way also..
lots of ways to break those bolts loose. from the top of my head i think they are only 60ft/lbs anyways.
also youll want the timing tool (long rod) for the timing belt tensioner when redoing it
and if youre pulling trans you need a slide hammer to pull the input shaft out to separate
the tcase from trans.
also the technical service manuals are available for the car also which makes it LOTS easier to work on it yourself.
you could of just locked the car in gear tho before tearing everything apart and broke em loose that way tho. or put a 1/2 drive on the crank bolt against the garage floor and broke it loose that way also..
lots of ways to break those bolts loose. from the top of my head i think they are only 60ft/lbs anyways.
also youll want the timing tool (long rod) for the timing belt tensioner when redoing it
and if youre pulling trans you need a slide hammer to pull the input shaft out to separate
the tcase from trans.
also the technical service manuals are available for the car also which makes it LOTS easier to work on it yourself.
Last edited by tscompusa2; Sep 8, 2011 at 05:16 PM.
#6
you could of just locked the car in gear tho before tearing everything apart and broke em loose that way tho. or put a 1/2 drive on the crank bolt against the garage floor and broke it loose that way also..
lots of ways to break those bolts loose. from the top of my head i think they are only 60ft/lbs anyways.
lots of ways to break those bolts loose. from the top of my head i think they are only 60ft/lbs anyways.
I've tried my electric impact to get that bolt off the crank and it's not budging. Put 2 flywheel bolts in and put a breaker bar between the bolts and engine stand arms. The gun is rated at 300ft-lbs and I've tried a breaker bar with a lot of my weight on it. Anymore and it feels like the engine stand can't take more. I've even tried heating it up for a good long while. Didn't move once.
I guess I'll try setting it on the ground once and maybe try jumping on the breaker bar. Or try to put it in my trunk and drive to a friends house who has a 650ft-lbs gun.
#7
I use a 1000ft-lbs rattle gun on the crank bolt, just make sure your using a six point socket/impact not a 12 point.
If it doesn't come off with 650ft-lb gun, just hit the F ucker (use a soft hammer) no ***** hits.
If all else fails get a Cold chisel and smack it in and counter clockwise to break the flange surface area of contact on the crankbolt.( dont hit the head of the bolt ! hit the flange)
I don't recommend doing this if you haven't done it before. but its just a bolt you can always replace it.
And remember don't look at the tip of the chisel when hitting it, look to where you're hitting and don't hesitate.
If it doesn't come off with 650ft-lb gun, just hit the F ucker (use a soft hammer) no ***** hits.
If all else fails get a Cold chisel and smack it in and counter clockwise to break the flange surface area of contact on the crankbolt.( dont hit the head of the bolt ! hit the flange)
I don't recommend doing this if you haven't done it before. but its just a bolt you can always replace it.
And remember don't look at the tip of the chisel when hitting it, look to where you're hitting and don't hesitate.
Last edited by Bcity; Sep 8, 2011 at 08:12 PM.
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#11
Evolved Member
I have a Chicago Pneumatic CP734H air wrench. Applied to the crank bolt at 90 psi the bolt was off in a split second. So, here's a tool you might buy.
#13
:UPDATE:
Well, finally got the bolt out but I can tell you right now, it wasn't easy.
Brought the block over to my friends house who has a 800ft-lbs gun. We tried that first, didn't budge. Next, he got a breaker bar with a pipe. I pulled on it and all the breaker bar did was bend a nice 35 degree round angle... He was stunned at this point.
Finally, we took the block out of the trunk and set it on the ground. He began heating it up with 2 blow torches for 1-2 min. Still did nothing. Then we decided to put a 10 min timer on and blow torch the living hell out of it. 10 whole min... The best example I can give at how hot it became would be this. I touched the 3rd crank blade from the bolt and it burned my finger... That's how hot it got and we were no where near torching the blades, just the shaft part of the crank where the bolt goes to. After 10 min, we took the gun and it easily came out! OMG YES!
This was the aftermath of the amount of heat that was applied to the crank. Color is a little off (because of my camera) but the top part is pretty much blue.
A little better picture but color is still off.
Well, finally got the bolt out but I can tell you right now, it wasn't easy.
Brought the block over to my friends house who has a 800ft-lbs gun. We tried that first, didn't budge. Next, he got a breaker bar with a pipe. I pulled on it and all the breaker bar did was bend a nice 35 degree round angle... He was stunned at this point.
Finally, we took the block out of the trunk and set it on the ground. He began heating it up with 2 blow torches for 1-2 min. Still did nothing. Then we decided to put a 10 min timer on and blow torch the living hell out of it. 10 whole min... The best example I can give at how hot it became would be this. I touched the 3rd crank blade from the bolt and it burned my finger... That's how hot it got and we were no where near torching the blades, just the shaft part of the crank where the bolt goes to. After 10 min, we took the gun and it easily came out! OMG YES!
This was the aftermath of the amount of heat that was applied to the crank. Color is a little off (because of my camera) but the top part is pretty much blue.
A little better picture but color is still off.