Ok to start off i just rebuilt my engine it had 98,000 miles. it ran perfect no problems i just wanted to do timing all gaskets went with GSC S1 cams, clevite bearings all ARP studs top and bottom other then rod bolts had problems with lancer shop(another story). ok so did everything that ARP specs said to do on the rebuild for studs. 500 miles going good did a few 19 psi pulls felt good no problems. around 1,000 miles hurd knocking noise around 3k rpms and up. thought it was rod bearings droped the pan and rod bearings looked to be pretty new. so i checked main bearings BAMB! end main bearings was fine but the middle 3 sets was destroyed they did not spin but did scrach the crank.
first question what could of cause that?
when we rebuilt the motor i did not have the crank checked as i thought it would of been good being the engine ran fine when we took it apart could that of been my problem?

second question for replacing the crank should i just have it acid dipped. and have it bored out or what ever they call it for the crank?
or should i just buy another used crank?
or just a new expensive one?

 

Did you get the block line honed?

 

No i did not have anything done to crank, rods, or block as i thought being the engine had not problems when we took it apart that i would not have to do anything my first mistake i take it?

im in the process of getting everything back to gether for another rebuild
what should i replace?
when i droped the oil pan there was metal shaving in the bottom of the pan looked in the oil pump tube nothing was in the screen also cut into the oil filter and it looked clean. what else could metal shavings get into before the filter.
this is all getting pricy again lol...... and feel like i need a few

 

I would send the block to a machine shop to get all the honing and other machine work they do. Replace the oil pump, bearings and obviously all the gaskets. Get the crank inspected and journals all polished if the crank is saveable. If there is metal in the oil pan its probably in the oil cooler also so u may want to replace it also. Get some rods and pistons since you will be in there already. So basically you should just do a full build.

 

So i understand that but what would cause the main bearings to get destroyed so fast. had no oil problems or anything.
could the crank be warped?
line hone is for cylinder walls correct me if im wrong.
really i just want to make sure before i make the same mistake two times in a row.
more feed back would be greatly appreciated.

 

A line hone straightens out the bores the main bearings sit in. It's uncommon, but sometimes necessary to have this procedure done when main studs are installed because the extra clamping force the studs apply can actually warp the block slightly, causing bearing clearances to go all wonky. It sounds like that's what may have happened here.

 

cool thank you very much i am in the process so getting everything back in order to rebuild again lol