Headstuds. MAP H11 vs ARP L19
Chris, I appreciate you chiming in. I spoke with Drew earlier today and placed an order as I'm about to pull my head. Unfortunately, you guys are currently out of stock with the H11's but someone is selling a brand new set on here which I just picked up. I dont have them infront of me so I can't comment on which lube they have but I assume the instructions will be included in the box and I will follow them accordingly.
The instructions I linked are pretty clear but I want to clarify something to insure that I tq them properly.
On the stud end that goes into the block. I should use motor oil on those threads not your special lube, correct? And those are essentially hand tightened using an allen key( sorry I did ARP's in my car like 6 years ago so Im trying to remember the process)?
Next I'll install the hg and head. Then apply the special lube and I do the whole tq sequence up to 45 ft/lbs. Then loosen and retorque to 45 ft/lbs 3 times over. Am I reapplying the lube after each time I tq it down to 45 ft/lbs or am I only reapplying before I do the final tq to 75 ft/lbs?
Last question in regards to heat cycling them. After say 100 miles am I simply just making sure they are still torqued to 75 ft/lbs? I do not need to loosen them up or anything, correct?
Sorry for all of the questions. Its not rocket science but I just want to make sure that I follow the directions explicitly so I wont end up doing this again. Thanks a bunch for your help and thanks again for making what appears to be an awesome product!
The instructions I linked are pretty clear but I want to clarify something to insure that I tq them properly.
On the stud end that goes into the block. I should use motor oil on those threads not your special lube, correct? And those are essentially hand tightened using an allen key( sorry I did ARP's in my car like 6 years ago so Im trying to remember the process)?
Next I'll install the hg and head. Then apply the special lube and I do the whole tq sequence up to 45 ft/lbs. Then loosen and retorque to 45 ft/lbs 3 times over. Am I reapplying the lube after each time I tq it down to 45 ft/lbs or am I only reapplying before I do the final tq to 75 ft/lbs?
Last question in regards to heat cycling them. After say 100 miles am I simply just making sure they are still torqued to 75 ft/lbs? I do not need to loosen them up or anything, correct?
Sorry for all of the questions. Its not rocket science but I just want to make sure that I follow the directions explicitly so I wont end up doing this again. Thanks a bunch for your help and thanks again for making what appears to be an awesome product!
Thanks Chris! Is there someone that I should connect with to confirm? I know I'm being overly **** about this but with such specific instructions I want to make sure that I follow them to a T.
I use a touch of motor oil on the threads into the block, hand tight. No need to re-apply lube when you loosen and tighten. and yes confirm.
Awesome, I appreciate you confirming that with me. Last question and then I will leave you alone, I promise
It seems as though the whole process of tightening and loosening then re tightening is for the studs to evenly "strech" for lack of a better word. My concern is that as I go about doing this the hg is going to be compromised the 2nd I loosen it up the first time. It is my understanding that this is why head gaskets are only meant to be used once and then then are garbage.
So, would it make sense to do the whole stretching of the studs while using my old gasket and then switch over to my new gasket when I am ready for the final torque sequence? I may be splitting hairs at this point but i just don't want to f it up.
It seems as though the whole process of tightening and loosening then re tightening is for the studs to evenly "strech" for lack of a better word. My concern is that as I go about doing this the hg is going to be compromised the 2nd I loosen it up the first time. It is my understanding that this is why head gaskets are only meant to be used once and then then are garbage.
So, would it make sense to do the whole stretching of the studs while using my old gasket and then switch over to my new gasket when I am ready for the final torque sequence? I may be splitting hairs at this point but i just don't want to f it up.
yeah i was concerned about messing my new headgasket up too, so i torqued without loosening them...but map is saying that its ok to loosen them? i also went to 90ft lbs because I saw instructions to go to 95ft lbs somewhere then later saw the 85 ft lbs, I do have the A1 technology lube. 5lbs+ over the desired torque shouldnt hurt anything, I do plan to check after 100 miles.
20ft lbs, 40ft lbs, 60 ft lbs, 80ft lbs, 90ft lbs in that order in the correct sequence. we will see how things hold up after 100 miles
also make sure you use a q tip to get excess oil out of the headstud holes in the block at it can "waterlock" the thread and add friction leading to improper measuring
20ft lbs, 40ft lbs, 60 ft lbs, 80ft lbs, 90ft lbs in that order in the correct sequence. we will see how things hold up after 100 miles
also make sure you use a q tip to get excess oil out of the headstud holes in the block at it can "waterlock" the thread and add friction leading to improper measuring
I went with H11 for my 2.3 build. Talked with a local shop that uses both l19 and h11 style. The shop suggested the h11 due to the dog point. However, they have not seen any issues from either head stud choice.
Chris- I received my headstuds today and they came with the A1 International Compound #2. They also came with instructions from A1 which state a very similar tq process except the final tq figure is 85ft/lbs not 75ftlbs.
I feel like I'm beating a dead horse here as I've already asked this question prior but the fact that the info isnt consistent makes me nervous. I get that the new "lube" reduced the friction coefficient relative to the ARP lube but the included instructions in the box say to go to 85ft/lbs and the instructions online say to go to 75 ft/lbs.
I just got home from work and had another package arrive from you guys which means I can now install the head but after reading the instructions I'm once again unsure what I should tq them to...
I feel like I'm beating a dead horse here as I've already asked this question prior but the fact that the info isnt consistent makes me nervous. I get that the new "lube" reduced the friction coefficient relative to the ARP lube but the included instructions in the box say to go to 85ft/lbs and the instructions online say to go to 75 ft/lbs.
I just got home from work and had another package arrive from you guys which means I can now install the head but after reading the instructions I'm once again unsure what I should tq them to...
Chris- I received my headstuds today and they came with the A1 International Compound #2. They also came with instructions from A1 which state a very similar tq process except the final tq figure is 85ft/lbs not 75ftlbs.
I feel like I'm beating a dead horse here as I've already asked this question prior but the fact that the info isnt consistent makes me nervous. I get that the new "lube" reduced the friction coefficient relative to the ARP lube but the included instructions in the box say to go to 85ft/lbs and the instructions online say to go to 75 ft/lbs.
I just got home from work and had another package arrive from you guys which means I can now install the head but after reading the instructions I'm once again unsure what I should tq them to...
I feel like I'm beating a dead horse here as I've already asked this question prior but the fact that the info isnt consistent makes me nervous. I get that the new "lube" reduced the friction coefficient relative to the ARP lube but the included instructions in the box say to go to 85ft/lbs and the instructions online say to go to 75 ft/lbs.
I just got home from work and had another package arrive from you guys which means I can now install the head but after reading the instructions I'm once again unsure what I should tq them to...