I'm fed up with BOV's.
I have the forge DV with the yellow spring and it works great. I put the stock valve back in to test it and the Forge is mutch better it seals better and a mutch better sound.
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From: Pennsyltukey
Yo guys...I was just browsing and saw this subject so I decided to post...I have the Turbo XS-RFL currently installed on my car, which is VTA....People seemed to complain about compresser surge and stuff....My brother told me to add a few spacers to tighten the spring...When i did my car runs perfectly fine now...Even with the VTA..Recently my friend with a red Evo just tuned his car with the Turbo XS-RFL bov VTA he is running very well now...
-John
-John
In Timeout
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From: Kennesaw Ga
Re: I'm fed up with BOV's.
I am running 23psi, with cams, computer, and turbo back and the stock works fine. I also tried 6 different BOV's and the stock is the best hands down.
Originally posted by EVO VIII Chris
Ok so heres the rundown... I have a 2003 Lancer Evolution with 14k miles on it. I have a few modifications nothing serious though. I used to have a HKS SSQ BOV which was litterally the biggest peice of garbage you can imagine. It fluttered like hell and the bolt to turn didn't do anything at all in terms of making it go away. So I decided to go with a Forge Motorsport recirculating valve which I currently have in my car. (Keep in mind that I DO NOT vent to atmoshpere on any of my BOV's, I'm not stupid and I know its bad for the Evo). Initially I liked the Forge. It took me a while to get it tuned in but eventually I settled on the stiffest spring that came with it (blue I think) and I didnt use any spacers in it. Well I loved it at first. It flutter or anything when I shifted. I noticed however that when I would be going at speeds about 55mph when I would let off the gas really abruptly the car would flutter bad! I mean so bad it would jerk the car. However it ONLY does this at high speeds when you harsly LET OFF the gas. Needless to say this bothers me alot. Is there no BOV out there that will run perfect on this car? No fluttering, jerking or anything? The Forge unit is really nice except for this little issue. Sometimes it does this at speeds of about 20mph to but only if you really are flooring it and then suddenly take your foot of the pedal. Basically I am wondering if anyone else has this problem or anyone knows what I can do about this. I am running around 22psi so the stock BOV isn't going to work for me.
Any help is appreciated!
Chris Jumonville
Ok so heres the rundown... I have a 2003 Lancer Evolution with 14k miles on it. I have a few modifications nothing serious though. I used to have a HKS SSQ BOV which was litterally the biggest peice of garbage you can imagine. It fluttered like hell and the bolt to turn didn't do anything at all in terms of making it go away. So I decided to go with a Forge Motorsport recirculating valve which I currently have in my car. (Keep in mind that I DO NOT vent to atmoshpere on any of my BOV's, I'm not stupid and I know its bad for the Evo). Initially I liked the Forge. It took me a while to get it tuned in but eventually I settled on the stiffest spring that came with it (blue I think) and I didnt use any spacers in it. Well I loved it at first. It flutter or anything when I shifted. I noticed however that when I would be going at speeds about 55mph when I would let off the gas really abruptly the car would flutter bad! I mean so bad it would jerk the car. However it ONLY does this at high speeds when you harsly LET OFF the gas. Needless to say this bothers me alot. Is there no BOV out there that will run perfect on this car? No fluttering, jerking or anything? The Forge unit is really nice except for this little issue. Sometimes it does this at speeds of about 20mph to but only if you really are flooring it and then suddenly take your foot of the pedal. Basically I am wondering if anyone else has this problem or anyone knows what I can do about this. I am running around 22psi so the stock BOV isn't going to work for me.
Any help is appreciated!
Chris Jumonville
The two nipples are connected together with a small hose,On my Greddy Type S.
I bought the car used and from a buddy of mine and it was already installed.
He didnt get it for sound but piece of mind, not having to worry if the stock one will leak even though it will probably wont...
I also think the stock airbox is better then an open element in the engine but thats a whole other discussion
I bought the car used and from a buddy of mine and it was already installed.
He didnt get it for sound but piece of mind, not having to worry if the stock one will leak even though it will probably wont...
I also think the stock airbox is better then an open element in the engine but thats a whole other discussion
Last edited by DocMortal; Jan 9, 2004 at 12:23 PM.
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Originally posted by DocMortal
The two nipples are connected together with a small hose,On my Greddy Type S.
The two nipples are connected together with a small hose,On my Greddy Type S.
I have a Dynoflash, 3" cat-back, K&N drop-in and MBC set at 20 psi. The stock BOV seems to work really well..... Why do ppls change the BOV? I cannot see, hear or feel anything that would indicate a malfunction of the stock BOV...... Am I missing something???
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Pressurize your intercooler pipes, and you will see the stock plastic BOV start to leak at a certain boost level. With 2G DSM plastic BOVs, the quality control wasn't there. Some of them held boost just fine to say 15psi. Others would leak at 10psi.
If they leak badly, they can cause your turbocharger to spin faster than it should to create a particular boost level. That increases heat in the air charge, and lowers charge density. It also can lead to an earlier turbocharger death.
If they leak badly, they can cause your turbocharger to spin faster than it should to create a particular boost level. That increases heat in the air charge, and lowers charge density. It also can lead to an earlier turbocharger death.
Originally posted by ShapeGSX
Pressurize your intercooler pipes, and you will see the stock plastic BOV start to leak at a certain boost level. With 2G DSM plastic BOVs, the quality control wasn't there. Some of them held boost just fine to say 15psi. Others would leak at 10psi.
If they leak badly, they can cause your turbocharger to spin faster than it should to create a particular boost level. That increases heat in the air charge, and lowers charge density. It also can lead to an earlier turbocharger death.
Pressurize your intercooler pipes, and you will see the stock plastic BOV start to leak at a certain boost level. With 2G DSM plastic BOVs, the quality control wasn't there. Some of them held boost just fine to say 15psi. Others would leak at 10psi.
If they leak badly, they can cause your turbocharger to spin faster than it should to create a particular boost level. That increases heat in the air charge, and lowers charge density. It also can lead to an earlier turbocharger death.
Ok let me put in my experience......I have a 3" catback with a reflashed ECU and a boost gauge. When running with stock BOV, my guage reads a consistent 19psi. But after I switched to the Forge BOV (as I heard stock leaks) my boost went up to 20psi consistent.
Since the stock bov is hard plastic, it is bound to leak sooner or lately as more pressure builds up....But of course if you leave your car in stock form with 19psi, the stock handles it just fine......
Since the stock bov is hard plastic, it is bound to leak sooner or lately as more pressure builds up....But of course if you leave your car in stock form with 19psi, the stock handles it just fine......
ShapeGSX
can you explain a bit of the article from thedodgegarage. is the mod basically adding a nipple on the otherside of the vavle so you have equal pressures on both sides of the valve letting hte spring hold it shut? (i.e. same as the bottom nipple on the type s greddy unit)
and what does he mean by quick release and no leak, he referes to them as either or situations... isn't the whole point to have the best of both worlds? if you have this mod shouldn't you be able to get fast response blow off when letting off throttle and be able to hold "up to 30psi"
can you explain a bit of the article from thedodgegarage. is the mod basically adding a nipple on the otherside of the vavle so you have equal pressures on both sides of the valve letting hte spring hold it shut? (i.e. same as the bottom nipple on the type s greddy unit)
and what does he mean by quick release and no leak, he referes to them as either or situations... isn't the whole point to have the best of both worlds? if you have this mod shouldn't you be able to get fast response blow off when letting off throttle and be able to hold "up to 30psi"
My buddy has an AVO bov on his now and he says it runs PERFECT! No fluttering, stalling, or idle problems. It' just smooth according to him.
I had the HKS ssBOV. I turned that adjustment screw all the way in and it ran GREAT, but would stall occasionally. Just got tired of the noise.
I swapped the HKS for a Forge. Haven't installed it yet. While I'm here, any suggestions on which spring/disc combo to use?
I had the HKS ssBOV. I turned that adjustment screw all the way in and it ran GREAT, but would stall occasionally. Just got tired of the noise.
I swapped the HKS for a Forge. Haven't installed it yet. While I'm here, any suggestions on which spring/disc combo to use?
im not understanding what you mean by flutter i made my eclipse's type S vta and took a vid, anybody that could host it for me??? i adjusted it to where it sounds cool but i think its fluttering
Originally posted by RnR Racing
we have had good success with the Turbo XS RFL. We route it back into the intake and it never gives us or any of our customers problems.
we have had good success with the Turbo XS RFL. We route it back into the intake and it never gives us or any of our customers problems.
Chris
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