so after this being my third motor to fail in a year i decided im going to learn to build the motor myself using step by step manuals and maybe a few questions on here in the forums. basically i have 1000 miles on my currant build and i see metal shavings in the oil and have about 5-10psi of oil pressure measured from the filter housing at idle using 15-50. i dont hear any knocking so im hoping that i caught this in time to salvage most of my engine parts. being that i have contamination in my oil what parts all need to be replaced? so far these are the parts that come to mind for me:
oil pan
oil cooler
lifters
on top of replacing these parts i plan to tear the engine completely down to have a machine shop inspect all the parts and also clean everything. is there anything i am missing or any useful information anyone can give on my first motor build i plan on doing over this winter? the motor being rebuilt is a non long rod 2.4 4g64 block with a non mivec evo head...thanks

 

you mean to tell me no one has ever had engine failure and replaced their motor?

 

You really don't have a question here, hence no replies. How did the first three vengines fail?

 

3 motors is like wow, who built them/tuned them?

Sorry for not really adding anything usefull for your build, just do as much reasearch as possible.
Good luck this time and have fun.

 

well the first motor was the stock motor in which was in when i bought the car last november...whoever put it together used a cheap oil drain which kinked and through all my oil out the exhaust through the turbo. the second motor died after 2 hundred miles which i wont bad mouth the shop i got it from but needless to say it had crank walk and jumped timing, the whole motor was ruined besides the cams and springs and they wouldnt cover any of the cost even though i bought the longblock assembled from them. this last motor had the shortblock assembled by a reputable shop and the head was machined twice since the first shop didnt do it correctly. it was then all assembled by a shop my tuner uses. the owner of the shop is very good at what he does but i dont have faith in the guys he hired on. when i went to pick up my car my transmission seized because one of them didnt tighten the drain plug. after they replaced my trans at their cost and i went to pick it up again they left the lugnuts loose on one of my tires and now after 1000 miles i have barely any oil pressure and shavings in my oil. i have way to much into my car at this point and im hoping i caught it in time before it did real damage. my question is what things do i need to replace with a motor failure? is it just the:
oil cooler
oil pan
lifters
in addition to having the engine inspected and cleaned to find out what is still usable?

 

The oil pan doesn't have to be replaced. You usually replace the oil cooler and the oil pump. I've never heard of replacing the lifters...are you worried some shavings got into them?

If your lugnuts were loose how did you not notice when driving? That would have caused serious wobbling issues.

How did you find out you were low on pressure...gauge? If so was it fine before and it just one day dropped to super low psi?

How do you know the first motor had crankwalk? That is very very very very rare on an evo motor to happen...maybe a handful of times out of the thousands out there. Who diagnosed that for you? If some shop did you wrong it's generally in everyone's best interest that you share so we know to possibly avoid a shop scamming fellow owners.

You said the first motor was stock but whomever put it together...so you mean someone at Mitsubishi used a cheap oil drain? What do you mean by oil drain? Are you referring to the oil return line from the turbo to the pan?

I think if you make your posts more clear you'll get a lot more help.

 

yea i noticed the lugnuts the second i started driving...as for the lifters i was driving the car the way it sits now....my oil pressure sensor was bad so when my new one came in which was for my 1000 mile oil change i switched it out and then noticed how low my oil pressure was. i know the second motor had crank walk from the marks left on the brand new eagle crank that was in that motor and the shop that disassembled it also confirmed it. as for what shop did it i will not post it on here but feel free to pm me and i will tell you which shops. the car when i bought it had an aftermarket turbo setup with a 50trim... by oil drain i do mean oil return from the turbo...they used a cheap rubber hose that kinked.

as for my original question though you feel i should only have to replace the oil pump and oil cooler? you think just cleaning out the pan will be sufficient?

 

Yes just clean it out......you should be good to go....

 

what about the oil filter housing? is this another part that needs a good cleaning or something that should be replaced in the event of engine failure?

 

The oil filter housing is very easy to clean out. No need to replace it. Replacing lifters is a good idea, though.

 

is there some how to's on the forums that im not seeing or is it just one of those pretty straight forward things to anyone with mechanical knowledge? since this holiday week is going to be crazy i am going to be pulling out the motor next week...thanks for all the help so far guys

 

for a general information give a look at https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/en...ce-motors.html
decide what you need your engine for and go with the according specs and clearances..

as already mentioned you don't need to replace oil pan and filter housing, just disassemble and clean throughout. Wash out oil cooler feed lines. You better to replace the cooler cos it's hard to clean. Get all oil channels cleaned/washed, including crank.
Most important, disassemble clean and check the oil pump, if it has any visible singes of wear replace it.
If lifters has an excessive knocking sound replace them, or you can just clean them properly, see http://www.myrollingroad.com/hlacleaning.pdf

 

extremely helpful thank you

 

maybe you had an issue with the clutch set up causing the thrust to prematurely fail? i thought the later evos didnt suffer that problem, i have an evo 4 which has the old dessign, mine has had serious mods to make it last a little longer and i know the engine builder i used who is an evo legend had the thrust fail after 1000km because of the clutch, exedy twin plate, it was all assessed every thing was done sweet, the clutch was swapped for a quarter master twin plat and it was all good, showed signs of wear though after 16000km.
I drilled and tapped the nut that holds the relief spring in and used a cap screw to preload the spring and give a little more oil pressure, i think that may have helped (with out back to back testing whoe really knows) used locktite thread seal to stop it leaking which seemed to do the trick. extra pressure might cause a problem with turbo, didnt for mine but i see a lot of turbos run restrictors anyway

 

Curious, how many oil changes have you done on the most recent build? Aside from what you say are metal in your oil what other indications of a problem do you have--? Lifter tick? rod knock?