i already answered the OP.. i quoted my initial response in this thread.. it is not a catch can issue he has.

read what you said earlier dastallion951 you worded it weird.. id remove/edit that post then. (its confusing) (i figured you knew how a pcv worked or atleast hoped.. but the way you worded it confused me)

ill end my discussion with this;

1. i have a built engine and run lots of boost and have more blowby issues then mostly anyone on a stock block so i know how to address the issue properly from direct experience and testing. if you build a built engine with to tight of tolerances it will just fall apart quicker.

1a. the can on the valve cover side to air intake doesn't get much if any oil.. so its not even there for a oil catch can.. im using it to connect the air intake tract to the valve cover tract to get vacuum from the turbo to help relieve pressure and it works and was tested with a boost gauge. absolutely no reason for a check valve to go on that side since its being pushed mainly out and not directional both ways. no dead end per say.. out the exhaust it goes.

1b. as you said you only need one can really - and that is the pcv to intake manifold side to keep oil out of the intake manifold.. and that can will get a few drops out of it every now and then so that should be done.. that will see way more oil blowby then the air intake side.

bottom line is, if you have 1 catch can and dont want to lose the functionality of a pcv, then you will put the can in-between the pcv and intake manifold since that area gets more oil then anywhere else. then as we both agreed and are trying to convince the other guy, its a good thing to put a check valve in-between the line running from the can and intake manifold so the can gets no intake manifold pressure directed into it.

maybe after i explained some of the repercussions of what hes doing he will test the check valve now.. i mean id hope so.. writing all of this for nothing is pointless.

but we are on the same page.. im not debating you.. dont take what i said the wrong way.

 

yea i'm not arguing either just trying to mean what i say...i did say it right but its all good. Its discussions like this that help people rule out who they should and shouldn't listen too, most of the time i have good advice to help people, because not for anything else that's what this site is here for to help people, not compare who has the bigger e-weiner haha But yea to be honest i didnt build my engine had a shop build mine, but it was built right its still ticking even on a red on pump gas. If your burning oil, op do a leakdown test, could help rule out where its leaking at if not visually.

 

the same diameter as the inter-cooler pipes is going to screw my response? Now I understand

 

Thanks for the comments guys ! Check my site for a Christmas Discount !

 

I'm thinking of putting the PCV valve between the can and intake manifold. Gonna have a female NPT bung welded to the can and the PCV valve screwed to it to make it look clean. Or maybe a PCV valve before and after the can? Any thoughts on that? I know the check valve between the can and intake manifold works. I just don't want to see a plastic check valve hanging on there.

 

use the factory pcv valve..it is a check valve....also put the valve before the can ( between the can and the intake manifold ).. not between the can and the valve cover.

One thing some people might miss here. The hoses for the lines to/from can.

Use emissions grade lines..do not use silicone lines. BTW Silicone is slightly permeable to oil and air under pressure. You will get weeping through the walls of the lines...guaranteed.. and you might find what appears to be a slightly lazy boost response from that issue... Also use the correct size hose clamps for the tubing.

 

I know a PCV valve (OEM) is a check valve that's why I'm putting it between the can and intake manifold because I don't want to use a plastic one (referring to plastic check valve that tcompusa is using). Basically asking his thoughts on putting another PCV valve (OEM, not plastic) between the valve cover (stock location) and catch can.

I know what hose and clamps to use.

Thanks for replying.

 

I run into this same problem now that i decided to remove the OEM PCV system, so lots of blowby coming out. I need to recirculate the crankcase from the can back to the intake, is there a check valve available with NPT threads? I want to thread into the manifold.

edit, found some at fastenal
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...0441201&ucst=t

Plus Grainger has some too.

 

Another pcv between the valve cover and catch can is not necessary at all. all you need to do is isolate the pressure to between the manifold and catch can.

No worries there :-)

 

Thanks for helping me save $25 + shipping on a new PCV valve!

 

little update. I read some more threads on the Kracka vents from MAP so I ordered them. They didnt help the oil consumption(maybe better gas mileage).
Turbo doesnt have excessive shaft play.
Rear bumper has the black stain around the muffler tip.
Some oil in the LICP(not leaking out, just smeared my finger on it and picked some up)
A little oil on the intake vacuum hose that goes from the valve cover breather hose.
No oil in downpipe-Also took the turbo mani off and couldnt see any oil on the head.
I took the valve cover off and as far as I can see the valve stem seals look ok but I could be wrong.
Compression is good.

Went on a road trip from Wyoming to FL and I had to add some oil every fillup or every other fillup.
Also, my downpipe cracked and exhaust fell offf
Valve seals? Valve stems seals? what else?

 

also the sparkplug out of the number 2 cylinder had a bunch of white buildup on it

 

 

Is there any backdraw to directing the PCV line (after catch can) to the turbo intake tube?