What now, and should I remove engine
What now, and should I remove engine
Hey guys,
I am in the middle of getting my tranny & tcase built by Shep. (Tcase blew up on freeway). I got everything out and shipped a week ago. I just finished the re-ordering of the rear diff plates, and since everything is down am having Bilstein revalve my struts (9MR).
I am trying to figure out what the most appropriate mod or maintenance should be at this point and could use some feedback. I think I need to or could:
1 - Remove the clutch and inspect. Post a thread with pics to see if the clutch pressure plate, flywheel indicate the type of damage or wear that would be the cause for 2nd and 4th syncro to get damaged over time. It locks me out from getting into those. I installed myself, adjusted many times, and didn't have a problem until about 20k miles I'd guess.
2 - Balance shaft delete?
3 - Timing belt maintenance? (45k miles on 06 MR)
4 - Finally get CAMS and install. retune (Its self tuned via lots of help from ECUFlash forum)
5 - Rear diff mustache bar delete?
So getting to the post title, if I do a timing belt or cams, wouldn't it just be easier to remove the engine and work? I toyed around with the idea of building a 2.3, but the cost of new turbo and all the supporting hardware is out of my reach for now. I always wanted to pull the motor, and its only teetering on one bolt now. As far as I can tell very little else would need removed, but I couldn't find a good How To remove engine thread.
Should I just pull the motor, and if so, can you guide me to some good info, so I don't make things worse. I am OK with getting a HarborFreight hoist and engine stand. Also besides my 5 above what other suggestions do you have....
I am in the middle of getting my tranny & tcase built by Shep. (Tcase blew up on freeway). I got everything out and shipped a week ago. I just finished the re-ordering of the rear diff plates, and since everything is down am having Bilstein revalve my struts (9MR).
I am trying to figure out what the most appropriate mod or maintenance should be at this point and could use some feedback. I think I need to or could:
1 - Remove the clutch and inspect. Post a thread with pics to see if the clutch pressure plate, flywheel indicate the type of damage or wear that would be the cause for 2nd and 4th syncro to get damaged over time. It locks me out from getting into those. I installed myself, adjusted many times, and didn't have a problem until about 20k miles I'd guess.
2 - Balance shaft delete?
3 - Timing belt maintenance? (45k miles on 06 MR)
4 - Finally get CAMS and install. retune (Its self tuned via lots of help from ECUFlash forum)
5 - Rear diff mustache bar delete?
So getting to the post title, if I do a timing belt or cams, wouldn't it just be easier to remove the engine and work? I toyed around with the idea of building a 2.3, but the cost of new turbo and all the supporting hardware is out of my reach for now. I always wanted to pull the motor, and its only teetering on one bolt now. As far as I can tell very little else would need removed, but I couldn't find a good How To remove engine thread.
Should I just pull the motor, and if so, can you guide me to some good info, so I don't make things worse. I am OK with getting a HarborFreight hoist and engine stand. Also besides my 5 above what other suggestions do you have....
Just pull it and do your timing belt. I wouldn't get rid of the balance shafts until you balance the rotating assembly; that's just me. I would def take out the EGR if you haven't already its a lot easier when you can really get in there and have the space to move around.
What clutch setup did you have?
What clutch setup did you have?
Personally I would put a new clutch assembly in. Especially if u r having lock out issues and the trans is off. Almost seems silly not to, and shep will probably recommend the same. As far as pulling ur motor for engine work... Id say it depends on what u plan on doing with the vehicle. If u plan on putting a bigger turbo on and making power then I say why not? It's only a couple more hours of work from where your at to pull it out. Then u can go over the motor, do a bs delete, a headgasket and studs, while the heads off you can easily do springs and retainers for big cams. But if u plan on sticking with a stock turbo I don't think all of that is necessary and it is not difficult to do a tbelt in the car or cams for that matter. And you have 15k to go before the belt is due anyway. Kind of your call based on your intentions with the car later down the road. But I would put a new clutch in regardless.
Thanks for the comments. I am using the ACT HDSS. Shep, and the others didn't recommend any clutch, as in don't use any. Which wasn't really helping me decide. I am trying to shop for a better option that can hold my planned power. Now I have 310 WHP, and I want to move to 400 over the next 2 years. Its a road race car, with lots of track days, but no drag launches to speak of. (6 speed).
Wow, doing both the tranny and TC. Nice.
Anyway, yes, do the clutch. Like other have said, kinda silly not to.
The balance shaft delete would require you to remove the oil pump plate and change the bearings, etc. if your up for it sure.
As for the timing belt stuff, you guys all know where I stand. You could do it now and probably never have to touch your car for another 60k or until you mod some more, LOL
Anyway, yes, do the clutch. Like other have said, kinda silly not to.
The balance shaft delete would require you to remove the oil pump plate and change the bearings, etc. if your up for it sure.
As for the timing belt stuff, you guys all know where I stand. You could do it now and probably never have to touch your car for another 60k or until you mod some more, LOL
Trending Topics
I already have the SS clutch line from the clutch job I did a couple years ago for the HDSS. I have been considering the clutch below, based on this relatively new thread.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ve...-alt-hdss.html
Any feedback on clutches welcome since I need to hurry up and purchase something before my trans comes back from Shep.
If there master cylinder or even pedal upgrades to make sure clutch drag doesn't continue or come back, if I and it?
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ve...-alt-hdss.html
Any feedback on clutches welcome since I need to hurry up and purchase something before my trans comes back from Shep.
If there master cylinder or even pedal upgrades to make sure clutch drag doesn't continue or come back, if I and it?
Last edited by fireroasted; Nov 25, 2011 at 09:09 PM. Reason: link
fwiw i have the same clutch on my car (6 speed too) and roadrace the living crap out of it and am now pushing over 60k miles on my ACT.. So i would recommend the same clutch if u plan on changing it... Also, if u want to take the motor out for fun (I would), do it and do cams and 60k service.. Then marry the tranny to the motor before dropping it back in the car...
I am going to post some photos of the HDSS tomorrow to see if folks think it needs to be replaced. This is under the assumption that 2nd and 4th syncro are damaged from missing shift and that there isn't already clutch drag.
So, is it in fact easier to drop in the motor and tranny at the same time rather than trying to wiggle the tranny onto the motor. That was a PITA last time, and I believe worse because of the 6 speed.
Again, any hot to's on the rest of the motor removal tasks? Like how to disconnect all of the driven stuff. AC lines, power steering, fuel, etc.
Thanks
So, is it in fact easier to drop in the motor and tranny at the same time rather than trying to wiggle the tranny onto the motor. That was a PITA last time, and I believe worse because of the 6 speed.
Again, any hot to's on the rest of the motor removal tasks? Like how to disconnect all of the driven stuff. AC lines, power steering, fuel, etc.
Thanks
I havent pulled the motor yet.. But i watched my buddy drop a motor in with the tranny married, and it went right in... Ya it is a major pita to marry that tranny with the motor in
first thing is to decide what your end goal is for the car If you know that you eventually want a 2.3 with a large turbo and you can afford to build the motor now then I'd say go ahead and build the motor. Just because you cant afford a big turbo setup at the moment doesnt mean that having a 2.3 is worthless. I drove on a stock turbo 2.3 for over a year because I ran accross a good deal on a motor and jumped on it and woried about the rest later. So if you know its eventually gonna happen one day anyway and can swing it now the do it. As for the balance delete I agree with the above posts. Just wait till the motor is gonna come apart to do it. As for the clutch I had the ACT HDSS for a long time and loved it. When I installed my 2.3 I decided to swap the disc out for the 6 puck because it worked with the same pressure plate, would hold more powed & was only about $100. I figured I'd be better off and wouldn't have to upgrade later when i made more power. Unfortunately it was a bad decision. Not only was it a harder clutch to drive but it gave me the dreaded lockout that I had heard about with ACT but had yet to experience with the street disc. Ultimately I went ahead and spent the money to upgrade to an Exedy twin which I love. Its easy to drive & can handle the power. If you decide to swap out your clutch then this is the way to go if you have big power goals in the future. As for pulling the motor I'd say go for it if you plan to do the timing belt cause at this point its not much work to get it out but doing the T-belt in the car is a bit of a pain im sure. Cams are easy to do in the car so I wouldnt pull it just for those.
If I had my tranny out I'd just take the engine out and do the t belt, water pump, etc. I hate doing them with it in the car, especially if you're using floor jacks. If you have a car lift then it's a different story, but still easier with engine out.
I looked for a how to when I pulled my motor but was unable to find anything. I just took my time and disconnected everthing that had to come off and pulled her out. when I did mine I didnt dissconect the A/C lines. Just unbolt the compressor & zip tie it out of the way. I didnt try to install the engine & trans together becase i figured it would be a bit easier to get the motor in and out with out the trans on it. When I remove a trans I drop the subframe cause there really isnt much to it & it gives you tons of room tot get the trans in & out. I'll see if i can find the how to on that that I found.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...s-trivial.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...s-trivial.html
A few lessons learned
I would hold off doing anything to increase your hp until you have too. I would still be running on the stock setup if I hadn't blown my engine. There's so much you can do to make the car faster before increasing the hp. When my engine went I did the same and sent my tranny and tc to shep.
Clutch: Exedy twin HD push conversion. If you plan to continue tracking your car I would highly suggest getting a clutch that converts to the push configuration. I have zero lockout issues and love the feel of this clutch. A push style clutch simplifies the design and makes removal and installation easier.
Sway bars: I upgraded my front and rear when I had my engine out. I rarely find any cars that are faster through the turns than me. Turn ins are fast.
Balance shaft removal: Wait until you upgrade the internals, this will increase your oil pressure and that may require troubleshooting, plus upgrading your engines ability to breath. I dealt with venting issues for a year after rebuiliding my engine.
I installed my engine and tranny together. I tried to do it with the tc attached as well, but couldn't due to clearance issues.
Timing belt: with the engine out it makes it real easy to do. I would hold off doing the rest of it, just replace the belt.
Clutch: Exedy twin HD push conversion. If you plan to continue tracking your car I would highly suggest getting a clutch that converts to the push configuration. I have zero lockout issues and love the feel of this clutch. A push style clutch simplifies the design and makes removal and installation easier.
Sway bars: I upgraded my front and rear when I had my engine out. I rarely find any cars that are faster through the turns than me. Turn ins are fast.
Balance shaft removal: Wait until you upgrade the internals, this will increase your oil pressure and that may require troubleshooting, plus upgrading your engines ability to breath. I dealt with venting issues for a year after rebuiliding my engine.
I installed my engine and tranny together. I tried to do it with the tc attached as well, but couldn't due to clearance issues.
Timing belt: with the engine out it makes it real easy to do. I would hold off doing the rest of it, just replace the belt.






