sorry im a little confused by this. so it only opens up at WG pressure? if i were to get one and still keep my DP,TP, CBE would i have a downside? or is this only cause he wants to use a stock CBE? srry if im not making sense now.

 

If I were in your situation I would run the QTP. You can be very quiet when needed, and also get faster spool and more power with the dump open.

 

How much did they charge you for that? PM me if needed. That is right up my alley as I'm only using a stock catback for the quietness but have been look for something like this as I'd like to cut some weight. I can then sell my QTP setup to help pay for it.

 

I'm running a Sound Performance boost actuated cut out and I love it. It starts to open at 5psi and is fully open at 11psi. Its one of the best mods I've ever done. Plus I like the fact that there isn't an electric motor that can fail. Not to say the actuator won't, but I've heard plenty of stories of the electric motors going bad in those electric exhaust cutouts. Plus using the boost actuated cutout IMO is a more stable option from a tuning stand point unless you make the electric cutout open automatically the way Freddie suggested.

 

I dont remember as i ordered the muffler and then had them build the system after the fact. Pm chris@maperformance, he is the man behind it.

 

imo most electric cut outs leak and give you a nasty sound, if I was going to do an e-cutout I woukd get a dougs headers e-cutout. its self cleaning and leakproof. The boost acutated cutout is def cool

 

Our external dump o2 housing only vents wastegate exhaust gases, so yes when the wastegate opens those gases will vent to atmosphere. The OP is trying to regain lost power from switching back to a stock catback, our o2 housing won't help in that regard I'm afraid.

 

I just ordered the hobbs pressure switch from napa. After thinking it through, it may not work. The QTP exhaust cutout will open up when the switch sees the set amount of boost ie 5psi. When it goes below that amount of boost less than 5 psi, it will be stuck open.

The first problem is the QTP cutout will need to see reverse polarity to close. I'm hoping someone on here can help me with.

The second problem is the when opening, but mainly closing, the power needs to cut when it opens/closes so it doesn't burn the motor from constantly having power to it in either direction. Please!

 

Research how relays work and pick one up from radio shack... not being a dick, but I am not going to draw a schematic for you sorry...

 

^^

No problem, I don't think your a dick. I know what a relay is. I don't want a schematic either, but some people may. Here's a schematic I drew up quickly for those who are interested. However, this should burn the QTP motor when it's closing, because it will be constantly trying to close.

I need to know what product will stop supplying power when the qtp fully closes and how that would work. I don't want a circuit breaker that will trip and stay tripped every time it closes. I've exceeded my knowledge of electronics. I'd love to learn more and that's where this forum comes in.

Thanks for anybodies help!

 

I think if the qtp gate was spring loaded then the switch would work...naturaly closed sort a deal...no? just thinking out loud.
but with two switches, anything is possible..lol

 

I like the SP Boost Activated Exhaust Cutout.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m5gaA...layer_embedded

 

I really want to get this, but it was a coin toss between this and the SpoolinUp COP. I got the COP this week. I have all the components of the QTP, I just need to figure out how to make it work with boost.

I may just say F*** it and get it.

 

Is it just me or would the car not sound extremely funny when the cutout opened hitting full boost but slam shut in between shifts and be quiet but then slam back open after the shift and be extremely loud again?

 

Maybe evilempire76 can chime in.