Good to know. Thanks!

 

I've heard of driveability problems with lightweight flywheels, so might want to take that into consideration if the car is a daily driver.

Also, I have no trouble rev-matching with my stock clutch/flywheel, how does a lighter flywheel make it easier?

 

Thanks for all the advice and input guys!! I'm going to be going with a stock like clutch with a lightweight flywheel. As for the toasted twin I am going to try and salvage it and get around to leisurely rebuilding it for when the car goes up in power, which won't be for a while. Once again I appreciate the input!

cheers,

CB

 

I was curious about drivability, but honestly I DD an RS with solid mounts, noisy brakes, and Ohlins...quality DD comfort isn't the biggest concern lol.

I am however curious as to what and how bad drivability is affected.

I could see how a lightweight flywheel combo could allow for faster RPM blips on downshifts, which could be perceived to make rev-matching easier.

 

A link to my review.


https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ve...00-review.html


I do do get some shudder with the flywheel, but its not bad. Overall, this combo seems to be a good piece.

 

That's what I imagine, however everytime I can think of that I've missed a a rev-match it was because I over-revved, not under revved. Guess a lightweight flywheel isn't for me, lol.

Regarding driveability, I believe it can make the car stall when going to neutral because rpm's go down too fast for the ecu to react and re-start fueling to idle.

 

The lightweight flywheel makes it harder to get moving from a stop or up a hill. Especially with passengers or heavy stuff. The window of engagement becomes a lot narrower. And they can give you more judder. Evos already have a lightweight flywheel though (13ish lbs). So most "lightweight" flywheels won't feel much different. STi's with their heavy *** stock flywheel (30ish lbs) would see a big difference.

Other than starting from a stop IMO LWFWs are easier to drive. Shifts are easy, rev matching is easy, the engine spins up easier, etc.

If cost is a big issue I'd say stick with stock disc and maybe LWFW if you really want it. The ideal solution for you (seeing as you don't mind giving up some comforts) is probably something like the carbonetics problade clutch. But it can be pricey.

 

Its easier for the clutch to "pull" the engine up or down in rpms while engaging. So even if you misjudge it by a few hundred rpms its not a big deal. Thats why I say shifting is easier. I kinda have a lazy shifting habit when DDing so I appreciate it. Try driving a subaru.....you need to be effing spot on with rev matching on those cars. Otherwise there will be a lot of drivetrain shock.

Actually a LWFW will lessen shift shock even on over-rev. And for the stalling, well you know I have problems with that. But honestly I had it when I had stock flywheel and ACT HDSS too. Its easily fixed with ecu mods. It doesn't help I have one of the lightest clutch and flywheel combos around right now...

 

i think the problade is about $1200? whats the cost on the other options that have been brought up? ill be in the same boat in the coming months i think.

 

I haven't had any stalling issues and I have a very steep driveway where I have to load the car heavily at low rpm and then unload it quickly.

I believe I'm into my set-up for about $700.

 

Shop around...it can be had for cheaper. Plus it already comes with a flywheel. And IIRC resurfacing stock flywheel is $100, LWFW is $200, oem clutch is ~$400, something like an ACT is ~500-600.

Heres my review on the problade: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ve...-evo-viii.html

 

Fixed: Long as its not too crazy light weight, its not hard to drive and wont stall out. Act flywheels are easy to drive, i think prolite was 10lbs and other ones are ?lbs