So I swapped to a bbk full,and ever since I cant get the return line to seal at the pan. I tried brand new gaskets, copper spraying gaskets, the old metal gasket, light sanded the surface of the pan and flange,degreased the pan and flange, and it just keeps seeping out. I got the brand new copper washers with rubber seal, and it still leaks im going nuts. Just so i'm postive, the seal/washer for the 2 bolts goes on the outside of the return line not on the inside against the gasket correct? It appears to be coming out of the 2 bolts. Any suggestions? I really dont want to drain the oil to silicone the bolts but if thats my only option so be it.

 

I have always just used rtv. Use it all around the return line, let it set and then bolt it up. I never have had any problems with doing it that way.

 

I'm with cursedsm. Use a small amount of RTV Black on the threads as well. Should seal up any leaks around the two bolts.

 

Yeah , the washers with rubber go outside that flange that the bolts attach to.

Just make sure you placed the pan to flange gasket correct. I remember seeing in the service manual it goes a specific way for some reason.

When al else fails, a little RTV is your friend.

 

My return line was doing the same thing, I thought it was either the bolts or gasket not getting a good seal but it ended up being a small pin sized hole in the line itself and the way it was running down made it look like it was coming from the bolts. I put some rtv sealant and a clamp on it and that ended up fixing it.

 

Its the old dsm trick

 

Thank you I will try the methods suggested its just pissing me off. Hopefully I didn't crack it while removing the old turbo or something but I'll double check that as well. So straight rtv with no silicone or gasket with a small amount of silicone around the edges and flange?

 

Just remember to clean the surfaces really good. then cover the return line completely with rtv, smear it around like you normally would let it dry for about an hour and then attach it to the oil pan. It should take care of it.

 

Ok cool, so smear it on but dont attatch it, let the silicone set up and then attatch it with the bolts?

 

The rtv yes. Let it sit about a hour or 2 before you do it. I mean obviously not over the oil hole or the bolt holes. But you can cover over the bolt holes to help seal being the bolts will go through still

 

Ok thanks for you help! it's greatly appreciated. I'll post back.

 

you dont need rtv, but i use some to secure the gasket on the turbo side slightly just a small film.

but if you replace the gaskets with proper oem and replace the washers it wont leak again.. the washers have tiny orings on them that seal to the pan side that are mandatory in order to have a proper seal without an oil leak when using oem hardware.

i can get these gaskets if you need them. just send me an email to my email in my sig
and even if you want to get them local and not through me ill provide you with part #'s.

 

What kind of flange are you using? I had the same problem when installing my turbo kit. The holes for the flange were elongated holes, not perfect circles if that makes sense. Since they weren't round holes, oil would make its way around the washers with the rubber seal.

-Jesse

 

I already tried OEM gaskets along with OEM washers, I bought 6 of them in case it leaked again which it did. Maybe i'm not tightening them enough or the lines cracked. I'm using the stock return line, If it could be put on backwards like the turbo side vs the pan side that could be possible that I put it on wrong, but I dont think it would line up like that? The turbo side is perfectly sealed.

 

So your saying that they go against the pan under the gasket? I have mine on the outside of the of the flange...