I totally understand that and your missing the point of the whole thread. You were asking for 360 to 400 whp which can be achieved on a stock turbo with 93 fuel. I totally understand how road racing works. My own rs was a road race car before I bought it. Car was under powered but still made 340 hp and I know the guy beat it to ****. The stock turbos will handle the abuse. I figured by showing you that info I could save you some cash. If your not interested then my bad, just tring to be a good guy.

 

I couldn't have said it better myself.

Wait a minute - that IS myself!

 

well, on 93 you arent generally going to make 360-400whp on a dyno like ours with bolt ons etc--- usually 330-340 range---

a slightly larger turbo allows you to do that without running massive boost- and keeping turbo outlet temps lower-

whether it be, FP, CBRD, etc--

cb

 

I think to get to that point with the stock IX turbo would require lots of other upgrades. It would be easier to just bolt on a larger turbo and get the same end result.

I would think a BBK Lite could put you close to your racing goals with a sweet a$$ tune from Petey, but IDK about raising the level for regular hpde's... If it were me, I would probably go with a BBK-BB, but what the heck do I know.

 

looks like i'm leaning toward BBK Lite to keep the stock hot side for reliability. if that doesn't get me to the power level i want, then i'll throw in a set of cams sine they are easy to do.

 

 

I would have to cary 100 gallons for the weekend and enough to make the 3 hours trip home. I don't tow my car.

 

With that much fuel packed into the car you would have jugs behind your seat, in the passenger seat, in the trunk.... dying a napalm fireball death on the freeway sounds like a bad idea to me.

 

I guess the BB Green of the new HKS Unit. The stock turbo can indeed make 360WHP but the issue is that it falls after that. A green would make and hold that kinda power. Go Bb Green.

 

No *****....


BB green FTW

 

Correct on your dyno you would make 352ish give or take making 400 dj. Like I said no disrespect or nothing, just tring to save the brotha a few bucks thats all.

 

Not really, I mean when I bought my car it had very little on it. Tbe, boost controller, catch can, and full coil overs and rims and tires. Car was tuned with a decent boost leak they failed to find so the car was underpowered. I agree with maybe the upgraded turbo as Chad said will help with temps yadda yadda with lower boost.

 

Running any kind of stock framed turbo you're going to have problems with the hotside. plain and simple.
To help keep EGT's down and help the hotside survive, you can add water injection. But 30minutes at a time is killer.
Maybe ducting cold air onto the turbine housing will help too.
If reliability is paramount over anything else, and you can use another turbo, i would try to run a small garrett turbo with a stainless steel tial housing.

something like this
http://www.tialsport.com/prod%20ss%20turbo.html#sgt2528

 

most events have 25 minutes sessions, so probably about 20 minutes of full throttle. some events have 30 minutes and some even 50 minutes but i don't stay out that long.

 

you go through lots of fuel at road race events, so it can be a pain-

again- you can run something slighly bigger and make the power "easier" or tax what you have in the stock turbo- and make higher compressor outlet temps etc-

cb