Hbeam rods
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2263681
arent they 3/8" arp 2000's? i would get together with these guys. thats not right.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2263681
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2263681
i did find it strange that the h beam+ recommend age625 for 800whp but then the arp2000 that are used to the normal h beam 600whp are ok on the i beams at 1000whp? i mean they don't even list i beam+ with 625, i'm sure it's an option but not listed like the h+ are.
i dont understand that either. with the price of h beams + the 625+ you can get the turbo tuffs. no brainer for me.
why is it the rod bolts on the turbo tuffs don't break being arp2000 tho and with the h beam they do?? the i beam should put more stress on the bolts being heavier even..
around $100. But why didnt you upgraded when you guys build the engine?
When we build mine we did all the bolts and all in the head . It was a no brainer . I am also running the Manley H beams, with Cp pistons.
Rob
When we build mine we did all the bolts and all in the head . It was a no brainer . I am also running the Manley H beams, with Cp pistons.
Rob
Rods also should never be rated by hp, only tq. Your H beams are rated to 550tq tops but I would keep it around 500-525tq. Aaron at English Racing is running an H beam just like the Manley and he makes 800+whp. He just keeps the tq down low enough to keep the rod in the block. Same concept with stock rod motors. We can make 600whp on the stock evo block if we keep tq below 400tq. Everything is relative to cylinder pressure/tq number.
Mikey
If I would've knew, I would've done it back then instead of spending the money on the bolts now and the labor. No brainer!!!
I wasn't even into cars when the motor blew. I just knew it was cheaper to build it than to buy another stock engine.
I wasn't even into cars when the motor blew. I just knew it was cheaper to build it than to buy another stock engine.
Last edited by Android4g63; Mar 10, 2012 at 07:21 PM.






