I already have a 2.3 stroker in my car with manley hbeam rods (rated @ 600hp) with the standard rod bolts. Is upgrading the rod bolts worth doing for my goal? Has anyone broke an hbeam, if so at how much power? My goal is 650whp and 500wtq.

 

The only h-beams I'd run in a high horsepower car are the GSC's or Carrillo's. The Manley H-beams are cast in china and are hit and miss at that power level. In all honesty, I'd get an I-Beam rod - turbo tuff, map ultimate duty, manley 300m etc etc

 

IMO, rod bolts are the first to go so getting stronger ones would help.

 

i have seen more than one snap mid beam with the big end perfect.

 

With me swapping the rods, do I have to rip apart the block and do machining for the manley 300m rods to fit or do the have the same fitment as the hbeam?

 

As for now, what should be my power limit to keep it safe?

 

will I be ok with 600whp/475tq? HTA35r setup?

 

i would sure as hell hope so! 475tq is not to much.

 

i would just run those rods and upgrade the bolts imo especially if its already in your car.

 

tscompusa, what do you think the breaking point of these rods are? what's the most power have you seen on them?

Yes, they're already in the car. I'll take your advise and just upgrade to the 625 bolts.

 

around 700 in vd. tq under 600

i have no idea what they are capable of in all honesty.

 

oh, thank you. No knocking or anything? How close is vd to a dynojet in accuracy?

 

to many variables to answer that question. it really depends on the road surface and the capabilities of the logging hardware/software.

580 in vd was proven to trap 138 though already. if the road isnt perfectly smooth its quite easy to get false readings like i did on my personal evo.

best bet is to view the graph in smoothing 1, if your runs very smooth in smoothing 1 still then thats a good sign its legit.. and then view it in smoothing 10.. if it doesnt fall down to much in hp/tq its pretty legit.

id say its pretty accurate when used properly.

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2.3 fp red 91octane evo 8 (super conservative road course car tune)




see how graph is semi smooth on smoothing 1 and no random jumps? that will smooth
out and be very very close to the real dyno.. id put $ on it.

smoothing 10 you see power drop.. could be lower then a dj at that point or within a few
%.. point is the program can simulate the real deal when its used properly.

i think you'll be fine with the rods, just choose a good tuner that is conservative with timing
at lower half of the map.

 

ok cool, thank you. I'll upgrade the rod bolts, and keep the torque down.

 

no problem. glad to help. i posted a example also for you on vd.