Hey I got the torque specs off their site. These studs come oiled in a bag because they arent supposed to be exposed to moisture. Are we cleaning off all the oil with brake clean and then just lubricating the threads with the arp moly lube like a normal stud? Does the shank of the bolt need to be moly lubed as well because of possible corrosion? Do we just leave the stud oiled and ALSO apply moly lube? Do you tighten these with an allen key or just hand tight like the ARP studs? MAP should REALLY include instructions on these things. I don't feel like having headaches down the road so I figured I'd post this. Let me know your guys ideas.

 

The oil is really only to prevent corrosion during storage (till customer buys them), from what I figure anyway. I'm very picky too and clean every bolt and threads before I assemble anything, I would leave the oil on it but just obviously put the arp lube on the top threads where the nuts go, also put some on each side of the washer. Basically it's so you reach the proper torque. I don't see the studs needing to be any tighter than handtight, if you torque arp studs it causes it more stress on more of a section of threads than the other and you don't want that, It's either map or hks that has that extra metal on the bottom of the studs to prevents this issue. They have a picture describing it better too.

 

IMO you should use an allen wrench an not tighten but thread the stud in until it stops.
It helps distributes the stress that the studs receive under load safer by having more threads to lock into the block. If you dont there is more of a chance of lifting you head an stripping threads due to lack of strength in using a few threads vs all of them.

 

Yeah to be sure I guess ill have to call MAP Monday. It sucks because I went to go put my head on yesterday and no instructions. That's just frustrating when you have a weekend off and a time frame on your car. I'm more concerned with if they only want these hand tight or actually tight with their "dog point" on the end.