send them a p.m. from what i understand its a bspt to strait thread adapter that they make in house for the fitting. bspt stuff is very hard to find.

 

one tooth is ~7.5 degrees. Your always half a tooth off because of the deck height. Advanced with the shorter belt and retarded with the longer belt.

 

It's the highlighted part I'm confused about.

 

"We don't sell just the fitting, you can buy the complete line kit if you like."

I guess i will make my own. Shouldn't be that hard to find the correct thread pitch for a bolt to go into the block and a nut with the same thread pitch as the banjo bolt and drill a hole in the bolt and weld the nut to it.

 

Because you're off by half a tooth, it depends on how you set it. Knowing that I was gonna be half a tooth off, I wasn't too picky about how the timing fell, and I ended up advancing one gear, and retarding the other. Just point the zero mark on the cam to line up with the stock timing marks on the valve cover.

 

You can extend it. We dont always sell the braided line kit with the motors. It will need a custom fitting no matter what though for the feed.

Aaron

 

Bummer.
Ima build my own adapter. Just gotta figure out the thread sizes. Not a biggie. I'll report back with results later on today

 

BUMP!!!!. Still waiting to hear from the gurus who have used the 4G64 belt to explain the timing adjustments for the Camgears?

 

I believe a few gurus already chimed it.
First a few facts- the 4G64 belt is longer. When you install the 4G64 belt the marks on the stock cam gears will be off by 1/2 tooth, so you can either set it to be 1/2 tooth advanced or 1/2 tooth retarded. Your choice. Retarding it will improve top end power and reduce low end power. Advancing it will improve low end and hurt top end. My personal advice is to get adjustable cam gears so you can zero out the cam timing. And by 'zero out' I mean you should adjust the cam gear by 3.5 degrees to compensate for the 1/2 tooth difference in belt length since one tooth = 7 degrees.

Adjusting for the MIVEC gear is different. I prefer to set the MIVEC gear retarded and then compensate for the difference in the ecu. This is a safe way to set the belt since it reduces the chance of the valve hitting the piston if the MIVEC mechanism fails for any reason. A MIVEC failure may be unlikely, but I like to be certain about changing things.

 

Since I am using a 4g63 timming belt on my 2.4L build. How do I adjust it with the Oem mivec gear and adjustable exhaust gear? The more i read. The more it confuses me.

 

the position of the teeth and belt arent whats important, what is important is that you line up the cams to tdc on the valve cover. dont worry about the mark on the toothed ring, line up the red one on the cam hub.

 

Ok so it doesn't matter what belt I use as long as the intake cam gear lines Up with the mark and then use the adjustable cam gear to line up the marks on the exhaust. Sounds simple.

 

n2oiroc, if someone would've explained this it in such a way that exhibits common sense (like your post), I would've never had to start this thread

For all of the folks like myself who were thinking too hard:

Follow the normal procedure for timing in the Evo Service Manual, and match up the inner marks on your cam gear with the marks on the valve cover.

 

someone actually did and even posted a pic with the inner and outer marks, but i couldnt find the thread either. it was fairly recently too.

 

Shows my searching skills.