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Once and For All: How to time an Evo with a 4g64 Swap

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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 09:53 AM
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Once and For All: How to time an Evo with a 4g64 Swap

Alright,

I read and read and read and read on here, however, I still can't get a clear answer on how to set my cam gears for my 4g64 Build.

I understand that the deck height of the 4g64 block is 6mm higher than that of a 4g63. Thus, a longer timing belt is necessary, and advancing/retarding the cam gears are necessary as well.

I've seen to retard the intake cam 3.75* and advance the exhaust cam 3.75*.

Is this correct? Is this done only to make the gears line up properly with the extra teeth of the 4g64 Belt?

Also, what is done with Mivec?

I KNOW this information is unclear to the community, as I get PMs daily asking about how to do this.

I want this thread to be a compilation of exactly how to time our Evos (both VIII and IX) with a 4g64 swap (with an Evo head, obviously).

Other compiled 4g64 information:

Water Pump: MAP Adapter or English Racing Modded Pump
-If using the MAP adapter, apply a thin film of Red RTV on the gasket for the Water Pump to the adapter plate.
-Downside to the adapter plate is that the extra space from the adapter causes the water pump pulley to be misaligned, thus wearing down faster.
Timing Belt: Galant VR-4 4g64 Belt or Kevlar 4g63 Belt
Upper Timing Belt Cover: Run without the top two bolts
Dipstick: Modify. (How to anyone?)

Again, the community needs one source for all 4g64 swaps, so I'd like to use this thread for that purpose.

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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 09:58 AM
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Advance if you use 64 belt retard if you use 63 belt.

Someone else will have to answer the mivec question. Aaron@english had some good pics and info in his build thread.

Last edited by akauf; Apr 16, 2012 at 02:13 PM.
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 10:06 AM
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From: New Holland, Pa
http://www.amsperformance.com/instru...llPictures.pdf

This is also helpful
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 11:02 AM
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Thank you!! The AMS link explains it very nicely.
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 12:49 PM
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Also how to remove that little spacer on the 4g64 crank were the flywheel bolts up.
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 2006GSR
Also how to remove that little spacer on the 4g64 crank were the flywheel bolts up.
Get a piece of rod that fits into the hole in the spacer very closely. Pack the inside of the spacer with grease. Put the rod in the hole and knock it with a hammer. The grease will get under the spacer and since it can't compress when you knck the rod it will force the spacer out. Keep adding grease until the spacer comes out far enough that you can pull it out.

It might sound crazy but it works and works very well.
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 04:04 PM
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I welded a rod to it and used a slide hammer lol
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 05:53 PM
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MIVEC go one full tooth retarded on the intake. MIVEC is closed loop by itself so you loose advance on an otherwise stock cam gear but get the ability to retard cam timing up top. Exhaust -3.75*

-3.75* both gears for an VIII, use a 4G63 belt since they are VERY easy to find.
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnBradley
MIVEC go one full tooth retarded on the intake. MIVEC is closed loop by itself so you loose advance on an otherwise stock cam gear but get the ability to retard cam timing up top. Exhaust -3.75*

-3.75* both gears for an VIII, use a 4G63 belt since they are VERY easy to find.
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 06:25 PM
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Lol
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnBradley
MIVEC go one full tooth retarded on the intake. MIVEC is closed loop by itself so you loose advance on an otherwise stock cam gear but get the ability to retard cam timing up top. Exhaust -3.75*

-3.75* both gears for an VIII, use a 4G63 belt since they are VERY easy to find.
Thank you.

Also what are my options as far as using the oem mivec line and what banjo bolt do i use to connect it to the 64 block were the oil dummy sensor use to be. The original banjo bolt is to big and will not fit. I do not want to drill and tap it since the engine is all putt together.
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by wreckleford
Get a piece of rod that fits into the hole in the spacer very closely. Pack the inside of the spacer with grease. Put the rod in the hole and knock it with a hammer. The grease will get under the spacer and since it can't compress when you knck the rod it will force the spacer out. Keep adding grease until the spacer comes out far enough that you can pull it out.

It might sound crazy but it works and works very well.
I am thinking of tacking a nut to it. Then screwing in a bolt into the nut until it hits the crank and forces the spacer out as i turn the bolt.


Originally Posted by Anarchy99
I welded a rod to it and used a slide hammer lol
Or this.
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 07:01 PM
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So close. Still need a adjustable cam gear and a twin disc and it is ready to be put in. Oh and tap the valve cover for 2 12 an fittings for a breather catch can setup.

Also can i run a OEM harmonic balancer or crank pulley or is it mandatory to get a after market one?


Wiseco 87mm 10.1CR pistons.
MAP ultimate duty 150mm i beam rods.
acl race bearings.
head has 1mm OS SI stainless steel valves.
hks 272 cams.
BC springs and retainers.
SLS manifold
Precision 6765
AMS 1000hp inter-cooler.

Cant wait to drive it.

Last edited by 2006GSR; Apr 16, 2012 at 07:06 PM.
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 07:44 PM
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I'm in the middle of finishing my 2.4 LR and had the typical issue with the water pump choice,i didn't want to use the adapter since i just don't like the whole idea of a spacer,i figured there has to be a pump out there that fits without any clearance issues,i've read some threads by some builders on here and they provide a water pump with their engines but they won't say which pump it is,and just like the op said there isn't a definitive answer out there on the subject,i think i have found the pump,i spent some time looking and comparing pumps at a local auto parts store and found one the solves the pump issues,it covers all the water passages and it's the same height as the evo pump to allow all the belts to line up,i'm supposed to get the pump this week so i'll install and update on the subject if there's any interest on it
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by VIIIdriver
I'm in the middle of finishing my 2.4 LR and had the typical issue with the water pump choice,i didn't want to use the adapter since i just don't like the whole idea of a spacer,i figured there has to be a pump out there that fits without any clearance issues,i've read some threads by some builders on here and they provide a water pump with their engines but they won't say which pump it is,and just like the op said there isn't a definitive answer out there on the subject,i think i have found the pump,i spent some time looking and comparing pumps at a local auto parts store and found one the solves the pump issues,it covers all the water passages and it's the same height as the evo pump to allow all the belts to line up,i'm supposed to get the pump this week so i'll install and update on the subject if there's any interest on it
very interested.
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