I am really wanting an HTA Green but, im on stockblock and i daily E85...If you have ventilated a block what were your numbers,mods,miles,fuel??????thanks guys...Justin

 

Bump...

 

Not an HTA Green but a 71HTA. I had 20K hard miles of E85 use on my stock 9 block and never had a problem.

Upgraded to the 71HTA and Cosworth M3 cams simultaneously. The car made 480ish + at 31psi. Lasted 300 miles. Colder than normal evening drive home. Third gear pull #3 rod split in half at peak torque. :-) It was awesome.

 

thanks man...im trying to decide my next path..think im gonna build my motor the beginning of next year....So, im trying to decide what to do first...i really want a green in E85 killmode..think itll be a fun streetcar.....Anybody else?????thanks...Justin

 

to tell you the truth it is all in the tune. Have a good tuner and you have nothing to worry about. But on the turbo question the bigger the turbo fp red / fp black might be a better choice. they will make the tq a bit lower and that is what makes you motor blow up. plus you will make an extra 50-80whp more

 

I'd build the motor first and get the turbo second. Unless you can afford to possibly have a blown motor and be without your car for a while, in which case go for it.

 

i put a hole in mine last sept. put down 467/444 at 32 psi(temp outside was 105). only put 3k on it before rod 1 let go

main mods at the time
05 stock 2.0 with 128k
gs2 cams
fic 1450's
speed density
e85

i would build the block before you buy the turbo. you will save yourself a lot of time and money as i found out the hard way.

now has a 2.3l and should be finished this weekend!!!

 

im gonna remain conservative with mine - 25psi, gsc s1's, headstuds, a good conservative tune... hopefully that keeps me safe

 

I'm making over 500/500 on a Dynojet on the stock block and I have been racing it hard for 5 years. My buddy made about the same with an HTA Green and **** a rod within a week. Part of it is due to the tune for sure. Knock kills rods MUCH faster than TQ/Boost.

If you want an HTA Green and want to preserve your engine, just get an electronic boost controller that sets boost vs. RPM. That way you can taper back the torque spike but still get full top-end power. That is what I have. It's an e-Boost2 from Turbosmart and works really well.

 

Torque and tune are key to stock block longevity. Everyone has their favorite number for a torque ceiling.
I like 400 ft-lbs DJ. So its not really the turbo. Some people are revving out big turbos and making 550+ whp without exceeding 400 ft-lbs.

 

Just goes to show everyone's experiences are different. Some get strong motors, some don't. I've been making between 450 and 500ft# DJ for a couple years now on an AX/road race setup and still going strong. But I knew that pushing the stock rods this far that my engine "could" go at any time. . .

 

I'm the same way , I know my car is going at anytime and have save money accordingly. Once you start to mod a car just expect it to break down...Just my .2

 

This is the smartest comment in this thread, and this is a man you want to listen to.

-Acree

 

have a recommended road tuner for a bb green?

 

Your results. Are the exception not the rule. Loom at a photo of stock rods vs aftermarket i beam rods and tell me you feel safe. Big beefy i beam rods have failed at the wrist pin end when one thing goes wrong at 500lbft. A little old stock rod might last 20k miles at 400lbft like my motor did and as mrfrex said or it may pop at 500lbft in a few weeks like my motor also did. It is fool hearty to suggest a safe tune and boost control will keep a stock motor together at 500lbft reliably.