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At what point will a -6an Head Vent become Insufficient?

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Old Apr 25, 2012 | 10:43 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Blue91lx
It looks like just doing the -10ans from the get go will be the smart decision. Thanks for your input!



Thanks for the warning! I'll surely be careful. What size did you drill/tap with/to?

#19 drill, M5x.8 tap
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Old Apr 25, 2012 | 11:13 AM
  #17  
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From: WAR EAGLE!
use an SAE thread not metric... and choose your tap/drill size based on what mcmaster has socket head cap screws that are pre-drilled for safety-wiring. You'll save yourself soo much of a headache! my 2 cents.


(reason why sae... mcmaster only sells pre-drilled SHCS's in SAE)
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Old Apr 25, 2012 | 11:56 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by R/TErnie
use an SAE thread not metric... and choose your tap/drill size based on what mcmaster has socket head cap screws that are pre-drilled for safety-wiring. You'll save yourself soo much of a headache! my 2 cents.


(reason why sae... mcmaster only sells pre-drilled SHCS's in SAE)
I've been an aircraft mechanic for 14 years and have safety wired 1000's of fasteners. With that said, I can't ever recall seeing a DIY auto mechanic performing a safety that was anywhere near correct. For that reason, I recommend M5x.8 (14MM long) hardware with lock washers and red loctite. I'm using that stuff in my car because I don't feel like bringing my safety wire pliers home from work, and I have complete trust in the aforementioned setup.
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Old Apr 25, 2012 | 12:14 PM
  #19  
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Em where are you venting the block to?
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Old Apr 25, 2012 | 01:27 PM
  #20  
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To a catch can.
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Old Apr 25, 2012 | 01:30 PM
  #21  
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From: WAR EAGLE!
Originally Posted by TurboTravis
I've been an aircraft mechanic for 14 years and have safety wired 1000's of fasteners. With that said, I can't ever recall seeing a DIY auto mechanic performing a safety that was anywhere near correct. For that reason, I recommend M5x.8 (14MM long) hardware with lock washers and red loctite. I'm using that stuff in my car because I don't feel like bringing my safety wire pliers home from work, and I have complete trust in the aforementioned setup.
It's not that hard. My point was to give people a resource for fasteners that are already drilled... I too used loctite
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Old Apr 25, 2012 | 01:36 PM
  #22  
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Eric, do you remember which ones you went with?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=h9hlq2

Edit: For some reason the link won't bring you directly to the SHCS page. Thus, I'm just wondering on what length/size you ended up going with.

Last edited by Blue91lx; Apr 25, 2012 at 01:39 PM.
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Old Apr 25, 2012 | 01:37 PM
  #23  
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Yeah I don't think I will be using the safety wiring on mine either as I'd rather not completely hack that job lol eric do u recall what length shcs you used?
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Old Apr 26, 2012 | 08:01 AM
  #24  
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From: WAR EAGLE!
16mm iirc

I used 5x.80mm shcs.
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Old Apr 26, 2012 | 11:41 AM
  #25  
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Thank you sir.
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Old Apr 26, 2012 | 11:48 AM
  #26  
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i run 2 -8 lines off the side of the valve cover and a -8 off the PCV port. i also run a vent off the dip stick tube without issue. it all seems to work well.
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Old Apr 26, 2012 | 01:26 PM
  #27  
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Either 14MM or 16MM length is fine, depending on how deep you drill it.

Personally, I drilled the holes a little deeper than 1/2" and went with 14MM hardware. Considering the thickness of the lock washers that I'm using, and the thickness of the baffle itself, I'll have roughly 1/2" engagement of threads, backed up with red locktite and lockwashers. I'm comfortable with that.
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Old Apr 26, 2012 | 01:34 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by evodan2004
i run 2 -8 lines off the side of the valve cover and a -8 off the PCV port. i also run a vent off the dip stick tube without issue. it all seems to work well.
Thank you for sharing that! Since I already made my catch can, for my application I'm going to stick with the two -10s (head) and one -6 (b.s. inspection).

Originally Posted by TurboTravis
Either 14MM or 16MM length is fine, depending on how deep you drill it.

Personally, I drilled the holes a little deeper than 1/2" and went with 14MM hardware. Considering the thickness of the lock washers that I'm using, and the thickness of the baffle itself, I'll have roughly 1/2" engagement of threads, backed up with red locktite and lockwashers. I'm comfortable with that.
Thank you for clearing up about length. I agree that your 1/2" of engagement is sufficient.
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Old May 17, 2012 | 03:57 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by EmeryatSTM
The dip stick tube sits above oil level so you should not have much of a problem. Yes we use the inspection hole on the front of the bock. Here is a link to the fitting we use.


http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...er_fitting.htm


-Em
How hard is it to install that thing on a completely assembled motor in the car?
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Old May 17, 2012 | 01:38 PM
  #30  
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I think I am gonna go with the block inspection hole -6an fitting and then the factory valve cover breather -6an for starters. See where that gets me.
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