I am already negative on my clearance (bearing touching clutch), adding a shim would make it even more negative. There are zero shims installed right now and it is already touching. According to Quarter Master, they have seen this twice before mine. There are potentially several others driving around with this issue. It will prematurely wear down the clutch, and will most likely damage the engine if left as-is.

 

Wouldnt shimming the TOB push it even farther out?

 

That's why they are machining stock off the op's throwout bearing to add clearance....

 

b/c the this guy said shimming when he really meant machining

 

Well maybe that explains why I lost my thrust bearings (and my block and crank) in my brand new 2.3 with the QM 8 leg and Manley crank a few days ago, just ordered a new billet Manley crank yesterday. This is interesting, I was told I didn't need shims by QM even after I told them my setup, but I'll bet my paycheck they aren't footing the 4500$ I just lost by totaling my block and crank. I'd also be willing to bet even if the crank is a different length Manley ain't footin it either.... Expensive lesson learned. I thought it was a possible oiling problem to the main bearing but this makes a lot of sense.

 

Damn this really sucks. Remember they are right saying no shimming necessary, we needed a "shaving" of the TOB assembly.

 

i said and meant shimming unless you meant the other guy haha

 

It would be nice if we could get a shop that has an OEM crank and Manley crankshaft in-stock to check. It should be fairly obvious since we're talking close to a 1/4". Pirana and myself both are using the Manley billet crankshaft. Was yours billet Straightline?

 

This is why you measure. My clearance is .125" Minimum is .130" Measure.

I have a 4G64 block and a 94mm eagle crank.

 

I said and meant machining stock off of the tob, shimming would make the issue worse and possibly cause it to slip as well. I have an 8 leg on order, but im gonna be runnin it with a stock crank.

 

I'll have an answer soon for you fellas. Trust me, it just cost me $4500.00 and I only had 70 miles on my motor, you better believe I will find the culprit. Im going to use a core block I have and measure a 100mm forged manley crank, 100mm billet manley crank and an OEM mitsubishi 2.0 crank. If this is an issue, this is something both quartermaster and manley need to be aware of immediately to save people from having the same problem as myself. I talked with Quartermaster on the clutch directly and they said don't worry about shims you don't need any as long as the clutch has not been machined. I never thought in any circumstance I would need to have the throw out bearing machined down.

 

If the QM drags, it will destroy your thrust bearings in a VERY short time, slipping will be the last thing you worry about when you need to buy a new block and crank like me!

 

Ya very true I can't imagine junking a new bottom end on a brand new built stroker.

 

I'm praying that I caught it in time. I'm just shy of 1K on mine. My clutch switch is disconnected and I have my clutch pedal stop adjusted to almost exactly 1/3" travel after the clutch disengages. If the bearing is touching the pressure plate fingers and your clutch pedal is almost at full stroke, I can almost guarantee that that the release bearing is pushing the crankshaft beyond the crank endplay limits everytime the clutch pedal is pressed.

I'm going to cut open my oil filter this week and check for metal shavings. I've got my fingers crossed that everything is alright.

 

I've seen an eagle 2.0 crank do the same. It seems these aftermarket cranks are taller at the head of the crank and have to be shimmed lower than oem. I saw a Qm twin come out of a oem block working fine and go into a built 2.0 and wash out the thrust in 350 miles with no change in the shim level.