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Long Rod vs Short Rod

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Old May 2, 2012 | 09:20 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by SmurfZilla
I thought Manley and Wiseco (And JE) was starting to stock these as off the shelf due to their popularity?
Manley LR 2.4 is an off the shelf piston not custom
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Old May 2, 2012 | 11:00 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Anarchy99
Manley LR 2.4 is an off the shelf piston not custom
how much do they cost
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Old May 3, 2012 | 02:17 AM
  #18  
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[QUOTE=03whitegsr;10136621]The rod ratio has very little impact on RPM capability with regards to piston/rod forces, "all things being equal." We are talking 50-100 RPM difference at the 10,000 RPM level between the 150mm rod and 156mm rod, it's nothing.

Things aren't equal though and the long rod setup can have a lighter piston which reduces wrist pin forces. While the long rod ends up heavier compared to the short rod, the net effect CAN BE a lighter rotating assembly.

My opinion, but if it is an engine that's going to see actual competition, the best bet is simply using shelf-stock parts so that when you blow them up, you can replace them with little down time. If you start buying rods and pistons in non-standard sizes, you have the potential to waste an entire season waiting for new parts. If that's not a concern, then you might as well optimize if you are willing to spend the extra.

It does seem the longer dwell time at TDC can cause problems on low-octane fuels though...[/QUOTE]

I agree the change is far to small to sweat it. keeping it simple and using mass produced parts is far better idea.
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Old May 3, 2012 | 04:19 AM
  #19  
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From: Raleigh, Transplanted from Toronto, Canada
Originally Posted by Anarchy99
Manley LR 2.4 is an off the shelf piston not custom
I meant Manley TT LR's, not their pistons. Most people pick the Wiseco and JE's anyway
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Old May 3, 2012 | 07:34 AM
  #20  
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From: Orlando/ Kissimmee
Originally Posted by SmurfZilla
I meant Manley TT LR's, not their pistons. Most people pick the Wiseco and JE's anyway
I know what you meant, but it's still in off-the-shelf piston. The rods themselves are not any more difficult to get either
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Old May 3, 2012 | 09:24 AM
  #21  
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From: Raleigh, Transplanted from Toronto, Canada
Gotcha
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Old May 9, 2012 | 02:54 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 03whitegsr
The rod ratio has very little impact on RPM capability with regards to piston/rod forces, "all things being equal." We are talking 50-100 RPM difference at the 10,000 RPM level between the 150mm rod and 156mm rod, it's nothing.

Things aren't equal though and the long rod setup can have a lighter piston which reduces wrist pin forces. While the long rod ends up heavier compared to the short rod, the net effect CAN BE a lighter rotating assembly.

My opinion, but if it is an engine that's going to see actual competition, the best bet is simply using shelf-stock parts so that when you blow them up, you can replace them with little down time. If you start buying rods and pistons in non-standard sizes, you have the potential to waste an entire season waiting for new parts. If that's not a concern, then you might as well optimize if you are willing to spend the extra.

It does seem the longer dwell time at TDC can cause problems on low-octane fuels though...

So by "cause problems" I presume you mean detonation, what are the chances of this on 98 octane. Will a good tune more or less eliminate detonation or just reduce the probability of it happening. So from what I gather.

The pros of the long rod setup are:
-better load and wear on bearings and piston side wall
-reduced engine vibration (harmonics)
-maybe better VE due to longer dwell time at TDC
-Increased rev capability with greater reliability vs a standard rod at the same RPM. [quote] John Bradly.

Cons:
-may cause detonation on lower octane fuels due to longer dwell time at TDC
-down time due to not being of the shelf parts if something fails

Any one care to add.
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Old May 9, 2012 | 01:50 PM
  #23  
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From: PA/NC
cost
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Old May 10, 2012 | 12:18 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by AreSTG
cost
Agreed, but in my eyes no build is cheap.
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Old May 10, 2012 | 01:26 AM
  #25  
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haha, i agree, probably why i have a LR . Just figured for some, and "budget builds", cost is a con of the more special order type parts.
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Old May 10, 2012 | 08:54 AM
  #26  
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By "problem" I mean the added dwell can require you to use less timing advance to avoid detonation. Less timing will lead to less burn time and lower average cylinder pressures during the power stroke.

As always, it is a balance between one benefit and another.

I don't think the difference between 150mm and 156mm is enough to matter though on a 88mm stroke and even less so on a 100mm stroke. Keep in mind, those Honda B-series motors all have like 1.6:1 rod stroke ratios and still manage to rev to 11,000 RPM and make power there.
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Old May 11, 2012 | 05:42 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 03whitegsr
By "problem" I mean the added dwell can require you to use less timing advance to avoid detonation. Less timing will lead to less burn time and lower average cylinder pressures during the power stroke.

As always, it is a balance between one benefit and another.

I don't think the difference between 150mm and 156mm is enough to matter though on a 88mm stroke and even less so on a 100mm stroke. Keep in mind, those Honda B-series motors all have like 1.6:1 rod stroke ratios and still manage to rev to 11,000 RPM and make power there.
Cheers for the clarification and thanks for your input. Good information always puts my mind at ease so I guess the only thing left to do is build.
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Old May 11, 2012 | 06:59 AM
  #28  
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A lot of good info in this thread. Basically the LR motor is a better choice.
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Old Jul 3, 2012 | 09:59 AM
  #29  
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I am building a short block with 150mm and 94mm crank.

AMS drag evo users them, and I guess it should be as good as a long rod.

Any inputs
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Old Jul 3, 2012 | 10:43 AM
  #30  
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interesting
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