Ok guys so first off any criticisim is welcome I dont take things personal! I am here for help and opinios.....so lets get started....
1. First I am going to replace factory rod bolts with arp's and install new barings while im there......
Question? How much torque can the factory rod handle with arp rod bolts?
Question? Should I replace the main girdle with arp's also? I already have them from the previous built motor.

2.Turbo setup is a ets t3 vband 6266....... Motor will be PUSHED and will be on e85!
Question? What intake manifold should I go with for more top end for the 2.0?
I dont want a mangus v5 or ams f1 because the "plenum" is too big I need a manifold that will help with spool just a tad but I'm looking for mostly top end...
Unless the stock one is good enough for my setup!




Setup will include:
ets 6266 turbo
s2 cams
ported head
bc valve springs
3inch exhaust
4 in intake
e85
1600cc injectors
255fuel pump.....might go double pumper
buschar front mount 4in core

 

IMO it's pointless to "push" that setup cause U can't safely do it on a stock bottom. If u stay with a Wally 255 ur not gonna make much over 500hp so I guess u could just keep that as a limit to how far u can push it. With the right supporting mods like ignition, and fuel I think that setup is good for like around
700+Hp

 

at that point...i wouldnt be too worried about the rod bolts...its the rods themselves that are gonna snap like toothpicks...lol

 

i want to make a low 600hp and a low 450 and under tq is what im hopeing for... Ive seen it done with around the same mods except ofcourse a double pumper

 

You should go by your own signature and build the motor..

 

^^^^^who's being cheap?

 

^ you

Especially if you are doing the work yourself. A drop in build compared to what you want to do is pretty much rods, pistons and a head gasket vs that and a new head, block & crank for when the rod snaps and you grenade everything

If you decide to go with the grenade option, if the bearings are good/low milage i wouldn't bother changing them just for the sake of it. I will keep an eye out for the post a week after you get it running posting a pic of the whack-a-mole block/t-rex chewed crank/shotgunned combustion chamber.

All this stock bottom end with a semitruck turbo stuff is just silly.

 

Better get a hammer to crack that other piggy bank cuz if u do that setup you WILL need a new block! And will have to buy new rods...just save time and money and do it right the first time!!!

 

Honestly man your better off with a big laggy turbo on the stock block, it may not be as fun as the stock frames. But the main reason why you granade the block is from thehigh low end and fast torque those turbos put out. I been running a hta82 on the stock block for 15k plus and knock on wood i dont have one single problem the torque is in the 350 range with 450 whp. I agree with the others though the power you are trying to make is way to high for the stock block even though there are a few people pushing it to that level the risk is extremely high of blowing your engine up and spending a ton of extra money. Keep it in the safe range with that turbo and ull be fine untill you build your block then ull be safe to make all the power you want with that turbo.

 

For reference my 6266 in a .82 vband housing, big jmf drag intake mani, kelford 280 cams, jfm 4in intercooler all stuff to slow spool but in any case I get 30 psi at like 5700. Its kinda lazy for a stock block that you dont want to be rev'ing to high. I would just do 6262 and have a more stock block friendly power band.

 

sounds like the biggest waste of time.. your going to rip your **** apart just to replace only your rod bolts and bearings? who the **** does that? save your self thousands of $$ and do it right. when I push my **** I know its not going to come unglued vs you just waiting for it every time you push it...

 

Im not being cheap slimy want to push the stock bottom end as you guys should have read from the beginning it had a built motor in before i still have all the arp hardware and crank from that motor i will be be buying rods annd pistons for the new block Im getting i just want to see what this stock block can really handle if it is a grenade well that sucks.......but the new motor will go in right after! I just got this stock block for very cheap and don't real like tearing it apart when i can drive it while i build my other motor





As for the big turbo it is to keep torque down Im not saying it will make 600who+ but i do want to push it also it is not my daily driver so if i get 6 months weekends only out of it Im happy
I know people are going to say its a waste of money but these motors are pretty strong like all my old dsms which i had a super20g on for years and was pushing 30lbs holding 27 car made 503hp on e85 with stock block

 

6 Bolt DSM rods are stronger than Evo Rods

 

You cannot replace the main bolts with studs without line boring the main, and you shouldn't do it to the rods to either because they become non-concentric. These half assed builds will only end up falling apart in no time, do it right do it once They cost about $1200 in machining alone to prep a block correctly and use proper bearings

 

I beg to differ