as stated pull the head. If the pistons are good get new valves have the head redecked check the cams and cam journals. Check your cam gears as well make sure no teeth chiped off. If the bottom end is ok you shouldnt have to dump a ton of money in a rebuild... But if you were ever thinking of doing any upgrades now would be the time to do that. Good luck and keep the thread up to date..

I just had my timing jump. I had cams already So upgraded to supertech valves and had works behive spings.. Had the machine shop clean it and redeck it. was less than 1500 bucks

 

Until you pull it apart you don't know if the belt itself failed, or if the rotating parts failed, causing the belt to break. Check the idler pulleys and other parts that are driven by the timing belt and see if any of them seized, which could also have caused the belt to break...

Good luck with your rebuild.

 

 

Sucks man GL getting her back together man

 

Wow. That's painful to look at. Who did your tuning?

 

Damn :/, sucks to have that happen.. Gives you reason to upgrade

 

Sean @ fftec in hayward,ca

 

Yea, just trying to figure what I want to do

 

That valve and piston looks crap. Thats cause belt broke huh... Sorry to see that

 

Wow. looks horrible.. you said that you heard a weird noise coming from the engine first before it snapped. How did the pulleys look(rotate). Because when I have heard belts snap they don't make any noise. Just the engine stops running. Have you reached out to the shop that did your Belt?.

 

Yea I know its bad.. The pulleys rotate normal, in talks with the shop to see if they can cover any of it, but for now its a long shot

 

Wow thats terrible. Not deserving of a guy that maintains their ride.
Did you double check all the parts that were apparently replaced at the big service?
Im just cynical by nature.

 

Sorry to hear man,good luck.

 

same thing happen to me last year.. i was going like 4k and all of sudden huge backfire boom and a few seconds later car dies....this happen about 25k miles after my 60k and the culprit was my Tbelt that had 8 teeth missing. the shop that did my 60k uses a off the shelf brand i just cant remember the brand(sorry) by the way this shop is in socal

 

I would pull the destroyed piston and check the crank journals.

If they are ok, then you have options other than replacing the entire block.

Definitely check into sending the head to Buschur and get a Stage 3 head (forced upgrade).

Then if bottom end is ok, no metal in the oil or oil pan, maybe look into doing an upgraded piston and rod drop in build.