I put on my new ball bearing FP black a couple of days ago, and i have been getting oil coming out of the compressor housing and turbo oulet. I even get the occasional whiff of burnt oil out the tail pipe. I have attached a picture to see the amount of oil coming out after 10 miles of driving.

I am trying to see if anyone else is having this issue and how their venting system is setup.

To give you a little info on the car, i had the FP green, then the red running at 40psi, then the journal bearing black running at 24psi, and none of those turbo's smoked with my current venting system. I am running the JB black only at 24psi for now.

I have contact brian @ FP, and followed some of his advice by adding the pcv valve back and routing it into the intake manifold. This will help vent the crank case by pulling it during vacuum.
But he also wants me to re-route the side valve cover vent back into the intake pipe. I just don't see that as a fix to the problem, especially at the low boost i am running.

From my experience, positive crank case pressure causes the oil to come out of the turbine side, not the compressor side.

maybe someone who has the ball bearing black can explain how their crank case venting system is setup?

Crank case pressure will cause oil to come out of both sides. The drivers side cent going into the intake pulls a vacuum on the crank case under boost where you need it most.

Wow that compressor nut is badass! Is that how they all come Faisal? Looks like its coming out of the breather line into the intake from the valve cover.

Hey,

Here is my catch can setup:


I have deleted my PCV and run the line from the back of the valve cover to the catch can and the line from the side of the valve cover to my catch can. It is a vented catch can from JMFab and I used the -6AN fittings from STM. I haven't had any problems at all.



Also, the nut on my DBB FP Black does not look like that:




-Bink

Well, that's what I originally had mine, with the addition of a vent on the dip stick. I am getting to the conclusion that this turbo is defective.
I mean, i went as far as disconnecting the wastegate to stop it from building boost, and it still smoked and spit out oil.

Btw, i got the ball bearing turbo straight from FP on april 20th, and the compressor nut was like that from them.

Forced performance inspected the turbo free of charge and found nothing wrong with it. One theory robert has is that my engine is producing too much oil pressure, and a smaller restrictor might be needed. I just got an oil pressure gauge, and will be installing it this weekend.
The FP ball bearing restrictor is calibrated for a stock motor producing about 75psi at normal operating temp.

I have also had my ball bearing black on the car for a week now, and i am not having any oil issues, even at 34psi.

i didnt think FP needed restrictors

ball bearing turbos require less oil pressure than journal bearing turbos

elhalisf, I bought your green awhile ago! Its still running like a champ, making 403 horses with it, thanks again!

Hmmm I have seen up to 100 psi oil pressure with the engine cold idle. Under acceleration with the engine fully warmed up I see 80-90 psi at 5K-8K.

I would suspect the oil restrictor is not in place or is the wrong size.

There have been a few threads where FP sent out turbos that had issues and then inspected and said they were OK. Have them check it again. Have them apply oil pressure at up to 75 psi to see if the seals leak or at what pressure they leak.

I know other folks here that show oil pressure over 80-95 at cold idle too. Perhaps FP needs to use slightly smaller restrictors?

You must use a PCV valve. Personally I use 2 small catch cans, one on the IM with a PCV valve going to the valve cover near the IM, and one without a PCV on the intake side of the turbo from the valve cover for use under boost.

Not only will you reduce crankcase pressure and possible turbo seal issues, you will reduce the amount of oil getting into the cylinders, thereby reducing carbon buildup and detonation issues

Step 1: Buy extra oil cap.
Step 2: Drill and tap for 1/8th NPT
Step 3: Attach cheap Boost Gauge
Step 4: Monitor gauge under boost
Step 5: Know with confidence just how much crank case pressure you have.

If you are showing any positive pressure under boost then your catch can setup is not good enough. Think of your crankcase evap system as a waste gate if the pressure cannot be bled off then it's going to follow the path of least resistance. A nice big fat 1/2" gravity fed drain tube attached directly to the oil pan is a pretty good place for excess pressure to try and escape.

excellent idea. i've got no symptoms of excessive crankcase pressure, but i've got to try this just for the data aspect.

make sure there is a restrictor on the feedline, also make sure you didnt go crazy putting RTV on the return line because when you bolt it down it will actually clog the return causing oil to backup into the turbo and burn off in the exhaust.

Another smart thing to do is invest in some sort of crank case vent...i dont have an evo however i have a mid to high 500hp 2gdsm and i have 2 -10 an fittings welded to my valve cover and those two lines go into an internally baffeled SEALED catch can then i have one -12AN fitting going into my intake pipe...this is by far the most effective setup ive ever ran and i would suggest doing the same because once you start to make power crank case pressures become an issue.