Oem 4g64 crank
Is there a difference in the 3gen eclipse & 03+ galant?
Last edited by kaonashi; Jun 16, 2012 at 09:07 AM.
Ok then, I didn't realise people have been using the 4th gen eclipse cranks. This was not being done awhile back new info to me! Guess I should keep my opinions to myself hah
Na its cool mang. I was just told the odds of getting one out of those cars would be better. I had no idea there was 2 different types. There was more of those cars around in that year so odds of finding one were a little easier.
Agree completely. They've been proven to handle hell and back.
pretty silly thread. I am very certain all the 7 bolts cranks made for 4g63 and 4g64 are made the same way. same materials, same machining, same hardness.
the 2.4 crank is not as durable as a 2.0 crank due to the longer stroke. if the crank was an issue in high hp builds there would be threads floating around on their weakness. there have been thousands of high hp builds done with the crank. where are the failure threads?
as with any crank discussion thread. I would never build an engine meant for high hp using the factory crank without nitride treatment. the extra surface hardness is invaluable. far less likely to crack, far less likely to spin a bearing.
the 2.4 crank is not as durable as a 2.0 crank due to the longer stroke. if the crank was an issue in high hp builds there would be threads floating around on their weakness. there have been thousands of high hp builds done with the crank. where are the failure threads?
as with any crank discussion thread. I would never build an engine meant for high hp using the factory crank without nitride treatment. the extra surface hardness is invaluable. far less likely to crack, far less likely to spin a bearing.
pretty silly thread. I am very certain all the 7 bolts cranks made for 4g63 and 4g64 are made the same way. same materials, same machining, same hardness.
the 2.4 crank is not as durable as a 2.0 crank due to the longer stroke. if the crank was an issue in high hp builds there would be threads floating around on their weakness. there have been thousands of high hp builds done with the crank. where are the failure threads?
as with any crank discussion thread. I would never build an engine meant for high hp using the factory crank without nitride treatment. the extra surface hardness is invaluable. far less likely to crack, far less likely to spin a bearing.
the 2.4 crank is not as durable as a 2.0 crank due to the longer stroke. if the crank was an issue in high hp builds there would be threads floating around on their weakness. there have been thousands of high hp builds done with the crank. where are the failure threads?
as with any crank discussion thread. I would never build an engine meant for high hp using the factory crank without nitride treatment. the extra surface hardness is invaluable. far less likely to crack, far less likely to spin a bearing.
I agree with you up to a point. But I guess then the question is then why are people using oem 2.4 cranks at all? I am sure shops don't send out the cranks for nitride treatments. I can understand the logic and it makes me think a little bit, but there are plenty of builds who have high hp on oem cranks that work without. What makes those cranks any different then others? I know a lot of people don't want to bother with having the oem crank checked out and if there is any imperfections in that to have them fixed. I can see that and why people would go to an aftermarket crank. Other then that though honstly I really don't think its necessary.
From my understand Mitusbishi used the same forged material in their cranks. The limiting factor would be the stroke. The cranks should all more or less be just as strong.
i have seen a few threads with the oem 100mm cranks snapping the tail end off.
here is one.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/en...rank-half.html
here is one.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/en...rank-half.html
The 100mm cranks do not like to be hitting rev limiter or doing two step launches all the time. They flex more and can snap the end of the crank. I have seen it more on 6bolt DSM engines more than 7bolts. It has a lot to do with the driver than anything else. A friend of mine broke two cranks. We thought the first was defective and then he broke a brand new oem crank in under 1000miles. He sold the car with the third (used) crank and it lasted 5years.
I haven't seen as many cranks as some, but I have only seen one broken OEM crank and it was a 4G63 88mm. Car was relatively stock (tuned), and broke with like 40k on the clock. More than likely, a manufacturing defect.
Haven't seen any broken 4G64 units, but nitriding one is certainly a good idea. Especially if you've cut it to reduce weight.
Haven't seen any broken 4G64 units, but nitriding one is certainly a good idea. Especially if you've cut it to reduce weight.
I've had more 100mm cranks break than 88mm cranks, for sure, but have seen both. The 100mm OEM crank is fine to use but for our high rpm builds I use aftermarket cranks.
I think the longest running road race engine that was run at high HP levels was a 2.3 with an OEM crank in it, excellent road race engines. Shepherd has a 2.3 in his car I built quite a few years ago now, it's gone 9.6's quite a few times, no issues.
My car has our 2.3RPM engine and there is more to the build than the crank, I see other schmuks attempting the build now, it has been close to 10,000 rpm quite a few times now and it's what it was built for.
I think the longest running road race engine that was run at high HP levels was a 2.3 with an OEM crank in it, excellent road race engines. Shepherd has a 2.3 in his car I built quite a few years ago now, it's gone 9.6's quite a few times, no issues.
My car has our 2.3RPM engine and there is more to the build than the crank, I see other schmuks attempting the build now, it has been close to 10,000 rpm quite a few times now and it's what it was built for.
Another thing people overlook is oiling. The stock crank is better than some aftermarket cranks in that respect, but the oiling on some higher end cranks like in buschurs 2.3rpm can just plain provide more oil to the rods.