Low levels of zinc and phosphorous are doing anything good in evo motors.

Always a better idea to switch to something with more, everything will last just that much longer.

 

Op you will have absolutely no issue using the same oil you have been using..Anyone that tries to tell you different is a fool or a sheep

If you want to switch oils go for it but you are in no way, shape, or form gonna kill your factory motor/turbo sooner by not.

 

Even Forced Performance doesn't recommend Mobil1 10w-30 in their Red or Black turbo including any oil that is ILSAC approved due to lower zinc levels.
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf

That being said, the Mobil 1 0w-40, high mileage, diesel, and 15w-50 have higher levels of zinc and are good oils IMO. 15w-50 has the most. Amsoil is another good oils to run but cost more.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf

 

It's not only FP is any performance aftermarket, or high performance car or part maker will tell to use oils which contain high zinc and phos levels. It's a proven technology and for now is all we got. I repeat again companies like Mobil and others have lowered the zinc and phos content to comply with all the new emissions regulations,,, us gearheads don't benefit from those green regulations.

Oh by the way AMSOIL also has oils that comply with the green era.

 

0 weight oils are too thin for the amount of power we are making and may have good cold start properties but under load it is too thin. once the polymer chains deteriorate it goes down to the viscosity of the base oil and that is way too thin. The high mileage M1 is better as far as additives go so thats a bonus if the 0-40 but it is still too thin. I have used the high mieage 15w50 in a pinch when amsoil wasnt available and that seems like the best walmart available oil.

 

So how was the high mileage 15W 50? noticed anything different? Im looking at motul 300v 15w 50 on my stock evo9.

 

I should say that on paper it seems to be the best choice. I have never had a failure on my evo due to oiling so far so I cant say I noticed a change per se.

 

For a built motor that is going to be pushed into the 600+hp range - Brad Penn 20w50. I wouldn't run anything else.... and I don't.

 

I would run Brad Penn, VR-1, or AMSOIL. Well built cars run mostly 20-50

 

The 0w40 is a 40wt and stays in grade well without shearing much at all.

 

You should always take into account your oil clearances when running oil. Best to ask your engine builder.

Running 20w-50 is stupid on a stock engine.

 

i run brad penn 20-50 because thats what forced performance recommends for their turbos. great oil alot of machine shops stand behind it as well

 

Too thin? Please don't completely buy into that myth. At cold temps, the 0w weight correlates to cold cranking viscosity. That means 0w will still flow at cold temps which is a good thing! At operating temps, the 0w-40 weight is actually close to a 40 weight. Best of both worlds.

I don't want to go into too much detail about this here. It can be very confusing.
My point is, 0w-40 is not "thin" in most temperatures that we use our cars in.

http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/which-30-weight-oil.php

 

i have a built motor btw thats why i use 20-50

 

Only 1 God Bro

Think of another example