Driveline Problems..
Driveline Problems..
My car at the moment drives like complete ***, but it does drive!
It is a JDM Evo 7.. Have done a bit of a search but couldn't really find much. I live in Australia.
The car is pretty stiff at the moment and I daily drive it. I'm trying to make it a bit more of a better daily and eliminate some of the problems i'm having.
2nd gear syncro crunches, especially when cold. Sourcing a new 5 speed box and will be on selling my current box. This is the first problem.
I have the following mods:
Driveline & Handling
Exedy Stage 1 Organic Clutch & HD Pressure Plate (I think its 3000lbs pressure plate?)
Gruppe S Lightweight Flywheel
Trust Type S Coilover
MonsterSport Front Strut Bar
Whiteline Rear Strut Bar
Whiteline Front 26mm Swaybar
Whiteline Rear 24mm Swaybar
Ralliart Shifter Bushings
Ralliart Front Engine Roll Stopper
HEL Braided Clutch Line
Ultra Racing Front Lower Arm Bar Under Bracing
Ultra Racing Side Bar Under Bracing
The problem is more evident when the car is cold. Car drives much better warm. I'm leaning toward rear diff problems as it feels as though its coming from the back of the car.
When I shift gears, mainly 1st - 2nd and 2nd - 3rd the car has like a little vibration/jerkyness when you let go of the clutch and repress the accelerator. This is driving tame on the daily commute to work.
Originally I thought this was to do with the Front Engine Roll Stopper that I installed as they are hardened bushes, but I don't think so??
Its almost like minor bunny hopping when you let off the clutch too fast with low revs in 1st gear. If you shift from 1st - 2nd in my car with too low RPM say 2000RPM the car will lurch forward as you release the clutch.
My car hates all low RPM driving and will usually start bunny hopping if your not in the right gear or revs aren't 2k RPM+.
From dead cold if I try and drive at say 10km/h in first gear it will start to bunny hop.
If I shift at say 4-5k RPM the car will either shift violently (shudder when releasing the clutch) or if the clutch is released too slow the rear diff will thud - the same thud that happens when you shift at 7k RPM and drop the clutch.
If i'm crusing in 4th and let off the accelerator in a fastish pace it will thud, feels like from the back of the car (rear diff??). If I let off smoothly say let off the accelerator in approx 3-4 seconds, the car wont thud.
At the last driveline oil change my mechanic mentioned metal chunk dropped into the oil pan as he was draining the rear diff oil, mentioned to me my rear diff may be shot but to see how I go.
As said previously the car still drives but it's not very nice and hard to drive especially when cold. The diff doesn't really make any noises, clunks etc etc.. Minor deceleration noise when coming off accelerator but I think that is my clutch and a non issue.
Could possibly be my rear diff bushings thrashed out but will check this out on the weekend coming up. Barring this I think its new rear diff time??
The clutch is not slipping, had it installed almost 1 year ago and has only travelled small amount of miles/KMS.. Maybe its time I just toughen up and deal with it, adapt my driving style... Thoughts?
It is a JDM Evo 7.. Have done a bit of a search but couldn't really find much. I live in Australia.
The car is pretty stiff at the moment and I daily drive it. I'm trying to make it a bit more of a better daily and eliminate some of the problems i'm having.
2nd gear syncro crunches, especially when cold. Sourcing a new 5 speed box and will be on selling my current box. This is the first problem.
I have the following mods:
Driveline & Handling
Exedy Stage 1 Organic Clutch & HD Pressure Plate (I think its 3000lbs pressure plate?)
Gruppe S Lightweight Flywheel
Trust Type S Coilover
MonsterSport Front Strut Bar
Whiteline Rear Strut Bar
Whiteline Front 26mm Swaybar
Whiteline Rear 24mm Swaybar
Ralliart Shifter Bushings
Ralliart Front Engine Roll Stopper
HEL Braided Clutch Line
Ultra Racing Front Lower Arm Bar Under Bracing
Ultra Racing Side Bar Under Bracing
The problem is more evident when the car is cold. Car drives much better warm. I'm leaning toward rear diff problems as it feels as though its coming from the back of the car.
When I shift gears, mainly 1st - 2nd and 2nd - 3rd the car has like a little vibration/jerkyness when you let go of the clutch and repress the accelerator. This is driving tame on the daily commute to work.
Originally I thought this was to do with the Front Engine Roll Stopper that I installed as they are hardened bushes, but I don't think so??
Its almost like minor bunny hopping when you let off the clutch too fast with low revs in 1st gear. If you shift from 1st - 2nd in my car with too low RPM say 2000RPM the car will lurch forward as you release the clutch.
My car hates all low RPM driving and will usually start bunny hopping if your not in the right gear or revs aren't 2k RPM+.
From dead cold if I try and drive at say 10km/h in first gear it will start to bunny hop.
If I shift at say 4-5k RPM the car will either shift violently (shudder when releasing the clutch) or if the clutch is released too slow the rear diff will thud - the same thud that happens when you shift at 7k RPM and drop the clutch.
If i'm crusing in 4th and let off the accelerator in a fastish pace it will thud, feels like from the back of the car (rear diff??). If I let off smoothly say let off the accelerator in approx 3-4 seconds, the car wont thud.
At the last driveline oil change my mechanic mentioned metal chunk dropped into the oil pan as he was draining the rear diff oil, mentioned to me my rear diff may be shot but to see how I go.
As said previously the car still drives but it's not very nice and hard to drive especially when cold. The diff doesn't really make any noises, clunks etc etc.. Minor deceleration noise when coming off accelerator but I think that is my clutch and a non issue.
Could possibly be my rear diff bushings thrashed out but will check this out on the weekend coming up. Barring this I think its new rear diff time??
The clutch is not slipping, had it installed almost 1 year ago and has only travelled small amount of miles/KMS.. Maybe its time I just toughen up and deal with it, adapt my driving style... Thoughts?
After thinking more about it, think my tune may be part to blame as an having a few issues with it.
Cold starts are spot on with Injector Dynamic 1000CC squirters. Starts like stock.
Car is completely undriveable with the air conditioner on as it makes the idle completely off. Idles at something crazy like 700rpm, almost feels like a voltage drop and car has no power. Extremely hard to drive with air con on.
On part throttle holding the accelerator at say 3k will cause overfueling, can hear the car sputtering almost like small antilag and similar to when there is problems with coilpacks. Under full load though car runs perfectly normal.
Car has GSC S2 camshafts which are quite lopey at idle, probably sacrificed a bit of low RPM driveability getting them installed.
Hopefully a retune will solve this, adjust the normal idle so its a bit more daily friendly and tuning out the lopeyness as much as possible. Also see if it can be made a bit more driveable down low RPM.
PowerFC FTL, going back to stock ECU and new tuner.
Cold starts are spot on with Injector Dynamic 1000CC squirters. Starts like stock.
Car is completely undriveable with the air conditioner on as it makes the idle completely off. Idles at something crazy like 700rpm, almost feels like a voltage drop and car has no power. Extremely hard to drive with air con on.
On part throttle holding the accelerator at say 3k will cause overfueling, can hear the car sputtering almost like small antilag and similar to when there is problems with coilpacks. Under full load though car runs perfectly normal.
Car has GSC S2 camshafts which are quite lopey at idle, probably sacrificed a bit of low RPM driveability getting them installed.
Hopefully a retune will solve this, adjust the normal idle so its a bit more daily friendly and tuning out the lopeyness as much as possible. Also see if it can be made a bit more driveable down low RPM.
PowerFC FTL, going back to stock ECU and new tuner.