TO bleed or NOT to bleed lifters on install
#1
TO bleed or NOT to bleed lifters on install
ive searched and searched all i come up with is ppl going back and forth about whos right and whos wrong and what mitsu service manual says and blah blah blah so i want to know " really from a well known shop or a evom guru " is what do u guys do when installing new lifters or bleeding them from the infamous ticking lifters ... do u take the out soak in diesel then pump back up with clean diesel or bleed them empty then put back in empty? ive seen other ppl saying if u put lifters back in already primed "solid" then when u go to start the car you'll bend a valve even though that's what the factory manual says how to do it! im gonna try and do the lifter change to the gsc lifters without taking cams out there's a couple of videos of how to do it so im gonna give it a try when i figure out what way to bleed these things prior to install.
also your thoughts on using diesel or oil to fill them back up if that's what ppl are doing prior to install
also your thoughts on using diesel or oil to fill them back up if that's what ppl are doing prior to install
#4
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ive searched and searched all i come up with is ppl going back and forth about whos right and whos wrong and what mitsu service manual says and blah blah blah so i want to know " really from a well known shop or a evom guru " is what do u guys do when installing new lifters or bleeding them from the infamous ticking lifters ... do u take the out soak in diesel then pump back up with clean diesel or bleed them empty then put back in empty? ive seen other ppl saying if u put lifters back in already primed "solid" then when u go to start the car you'll bend a valve even though that's what the factory manual says how to do it! im gonna try and do the lifter change to the gsc lifters without taking cams out there's a couple of videos of how to do it so im gonna give it a try when i figure out what way to bleed these things prior to install.
also your thoughts on using diesel or oil to fill them back up if that's what ppl are doing prior to install
also your thoughts on using diesel or oil to fill them back up if that's what ppl are doing prior to install
Soaking them in diesel is only part of what the manual states. There is more to do than to simply "soak" them. You need to release the check valve that's inside of the lifter to relase the oil that's inside.
Second, you don't "Fill them back up" prior to install. Unless you inject oil through the passageway on the side of the lifter, you aren't "filling them back up" in any way. They will be filled once the car starts up and the oil galley that runs through the middle of the lifter holes fills with oil and is pressurized. That is how the get "re-filled".
Third, if you are putting in brand new Un-used lifters, you do not need to do anything other than clean them (Outside) really good and install.
Anyone who tells you that you do not need to bleed the lifters is only doing things half way. The lifter is pressurized to take up the gap and press the roller against the cam. If you put in cams with a larger (taller) cam lobe (Meaning basically any aftermarket cam for the Evo) then you are changing the distance between the top of the cam lobes to the top of the lifter seat (As a relationship). With a taller cam lobe, the distance is decreased meaning the roller seat (Against the lifter) needs to be reduced. In essence, how do you do that *without* bleeding oil from under the check valve in the lifter to decrease the over all height of the lifter? You can't. Anyone who tells you that you do not need to bleed the lifters is incorrect and only doing things half way. It is a simple 10 minutes to do so there is no real reason not to do it other that you are being lazy. (And no, technically you do not need diesel to do it either) Simply pull the lifter out, stick a small rod into the end of the lifter and push the check valve down (With the lifter upside down) and push. All of the oil will seep out the end of the lifter. Do this several times and the ball end of the lifter will be able to "spring" up and down now. Reinstall and be happy that you bled the lifters and did things the correct way instead of half a55ed.
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#8
Soaking them in diesel is only part of what the manual states. There is more to do than to simply "soak" them. You need to release the check valve that's inside of the lifter to relase the oil that's inside.
Second, you don't "Fill them back up" prior to install. Unless you inject oil through the passageway on the side of the lifter, you aren't "filling them back up" in any way. They will be filled once the car starts up and the oil galley that runs through the middle of the lifter holes fills with oil and is pressurized. That is how the get "re-filled".
Third, if you are putting in brand new Un-used lifters, you do not need to do anything other than clean them (Outside) really good and install.
Anyone who tells you that you do not need to bleed the lifters is only doing things half way. The lifter is pressurized to take up the gap and press the roller against the cam. If you put in cams with a larger (taller) cam lobe (Meaning basically any aftermarket cam for the Evo) then you are changing the distance between the top of the cam lobes to the top of the lifter seat (As a relationship). With a taller cam lobe, the distance is decreased meaning the roller seat (Against the lifter) needs to be reduced. In essence, how do you do that *without* bleeding oil from under the check valve in the lifter to decrease the over all height of the lifter? You can't. Anyone who tells you that you do not need to bleed the lifters is incorrect and only doing things half way. It is a simple 10 minutes to do so there is no real reason not to do it other that you are being lazy. (And no, technically you do not need diesel to do it either) Simply pull the lifter out, stick a small rod into the end of the lifter and push the check valve down (With the lifter upside down) and push. All of the oil will seep out the end of the lifter. Do this several times and the ball end of the lifter will be able to "spring" up and down now. Reinstall and be happy that you bled the lifters and did things the correct way instead of half a55ed.
Second, you don't "Fill them back up" prior to install. Unless you inject oil through the passageway on the side of the lifter, you aren't "filling them back up" in any way. They will be filled once the car starts up and the oil galley that runs through the middle of the lifter holes fills with oil and is pressurized. That is how the get "re-filled".
Third, if you are putting in brand new Un-used lifters, you do not need to do anything other than clean them (Outside) really good and install.
Anyone who tells you that you do not need to bleed the lifters is only doing things half way. The lifter is pressurized to take up the gap and press the roller against the cam. If you put in cams with a larger (taller) cam lobe (Meaning basically any aftermarket cam for the Evo) then you are changing the distance between the top of the cam lobes to the top of the lifter seat (As a relationship). With a taller cam lobe, the distance is decreased meaning the roller seat (Against the lifter) needs to be reduced. In essence, how do you do that *without* bleeding oil from under the check valve in the lifter to decrease the over all height of the lifter? You can't. Anyone who tells you that you do not need to bleed the lifters is incorrect and only doing things half way. It is a simple 10 minutes to do so there is no real reason not to do it other that you are being lazy. (And no, technically you do not need diesel to do it either) Simply pull the lifter out, stick a small rod into the end of the lifter and push the check valve down (With the lifter upside down) and push. All of the oil will seep out the end of the lifter. Do this several times and the ball end of the lifter will be able to "spring" up and down now. Reinstall and be happy that you bled the lifters and did things the correct way instead of half a55ed.
youve gotten me all wrong i know how to bleed lifters i did mine when i finished my build not to long ago and i was asking cause i was gonna take mine out again and try and bleed them down again flush with diesel and thats the part i was asking if i should " fill " them back up (pressurize) them or put them in empty ( collapsed ) i was gonna try that then if they still ticked i was gonna get the gsc ones
#12
so u quote on quote filled them back up again with diesel fuel before u installed them? i say quote on quote cause i dont want ppl think im referring to something else or not using correct wording ....
they were rock hard when u put them in back in meaning u couldn't compress them with your fingers?
#13
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BLEED THEM! It does not take long and it will save you around 750 bucks having a shop take them out because they are not sounding right just in turn to put 0 tick lifters in. When in reality they just needed to be bled. It's a simple measure to be taken that will be more than worth it over time. GL
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My process: removed lifters. Put a skinny Allen wrench in. Turned it upside down and pushed till all the oil was out. Then put lifters in a container of diesel. Put Allen wrench in. Kept lifter face and pumped till no more air bubbles leaked out. Took out of diesel and wasn't able to compress with fingers. Reinstalled. Moved to the next one.
#15
My process: removed lifters. Put a skinny Allen wrench in. Turned it upside down and pushed till all the oil was out. Then put lifters in a container of diesel. Put Allen wrench in. Kept lifter face and pumped till no more air bubbles leaked out. Took out of diesel and wasn't able to compress with fingers. Reinstalled. Moved to the next one.
NICE thats what i like to see and hear just a step by step process of what ppl have done, i did mine when i did my build and they wernt this loud when my car was was first done so im hoping there clogged up and just need to bleed cleaned and so im gonna give it another shot tomorrow... thanks again guys for the help
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