No problem. I can think of a couple of other possibilities off hand. 1) blown turbo, and 2) totally pugged catalytic convertor. Well, anyway I hope that you get it fixed soon so that you can enjoy your Evo and drive the **** out of it.

 

And I checked the turbo and it has no in and out, slight side to side, no fun to compressor marks, and isn't pushing any oil through the system at all. And I'm also running no cat, 3" turbo back.

 

You are sure that the rod was bottomed out inside the turnbuckle? Was the backup nut still on there at the time? Were unused threads still visible behind the turnbuckle and nut along the actuator rod?

It would be best to remove the the backup nut and bottom the rod out inside the turnbuckle and test it thusly setup to see if boost increases and count the threads remaining outside the turnbuckle. This will give us a comparative reference.

In spite of your arguments there is no Holy Grail. You may yet have to cut about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch off the end of the rod to get the actuator into a responsive range. Sometimes they(the rod on the FP 18# actuator) are just too long. With respect to actuator rods, too long is not always a good thing.

 

Did a boost leak test, only a small leak at the throttle position sensor, nothing crazy. So now that rules out any major boost leak I'd pressurize the system to about 25-30 psi, lost about a pound a second with some leaking at the tester, which is acceptable amount of boost drop. So am I in the right position to assume its either A. Wastegate itself of B. Wastegate flapper not sealing

 

You'll never read about the stock MHI flapper valves themselves warping. With a stock flapper the metallurgy is good. So, if the face of the valve is not warped then it is unlikely that you'll see sealing issues between the valve face and the valve seat on the turbine housing. Highly unlikely.

Sometimes what will happen though, is that the flapper valve can exhibit issues at the point where and in the manner in which the flapper valve itself is attached to pivot arm. In these cases however, there is usually a total loss of boost down to a level of about 6-8 PSI.

The other possibility is a malfunctioning or faulty WGA. Is this what you are referring to? Perhaps a torn internal diaphragm not sealing properly. Am I reading you correctly? Are you referring to one of the two above possible scenarios?

Look, I think that first of all, you should install your BR MBC. Once it is installed we can check what your WG spring level is by simply backing the MBC adjustment knob all the way out counterclockwise to its softest, lowest possible boost setting. This MBC setting gives a pretty accurate reading of spring pressure. I still think that your WG spring pressure is too low. So, with the MBC installed we can test out my theory. Depending on the reading obtained, then we can proceed from there.

 

Well aren't I running the wastegates lowest right now, thatd be 13? Since I have no type of controller on there affecting the psi output. Running the boost controller at its softest would just be puttig something in the lines that wouldn't do anything. I did reroute some vacuum lines yesterday previous owner had the boost gauge between the intake and the blow off valve, so I moved that over to the fpr and made it a straight shot from the bov to the intake.

 

Yeah with zero preload, the FP 18# actuator tends to be full open at anywhere between 13-15 PSI. Do you still have the BCS hooked up and controlling boost? If we are shooting for transparency w/ zero fudge factor, then best disconnect the BCS and its nefarious pulsations, and run a straight hose from the WGA to the j-pipe nipple.

 

yup that's how its been this whole time, nothing between the wastegate and turbo, I put the boost controller on for a day but it was spiking a decent amount so I took it off figuring I'd mess with it another day.

 

You are gonna have to cut the 3/8" off the threaded tip of the actuator rod. If the prospect of doing so gets you a bit paranoid then just cut off three to four threads, which equates to about 1/4". Leave the backup nut off when you mount the turnbuckle back onto the rod. From then on, you'll run the turnbuckle w/o the backup nut.

To cut the rod dismount the complete actuator assembly from the turbo and do the job up on your workbench.

 

Okay I'll do that today when I get home. I almost think it may be under tensioned if I am creeping boost too, I'll see if like 6-7 turns will bring me up in to the high teens.

 

By cutting the end off the actuator rod you will be gaining, not losing range of actuator adjustability. You will increase the window of adjustability not reduce it. It seems contrary to reason, but if you think about it you will see what I mean.

As it is right now you are unable to increase preload above 13# because the point along the length of the rod that can give you preload levels above 13# will remain out of the range of adjustability of the turnbuckle unless you shorten the rod.

 

Cut the rod today and it is making more boost! I was at what would've been probably 7 turns past "0", in all gears (tested in 3rd) I'd get up to about 20 psi at 5.5kish and I'd let off, I would prefer to not go over 20 at 7k since its untuned. So I'm going to back it off a half turn to tomorrow and see where that puts me. That 7 psi made such a crazy difference, can really tell where the turbo is efficient and i can't wait to take it to 25ish psi at ams when I tune it. But I did wot in all gears just to make sure it wasn't just creeping, and it wentto 20 in all gears even first.

Also looking at the wastegate it appears to be an oem 9. Based off the numbers on the back that I googled I believe it is just a stock 9.