opinions on injen fmic
so is the ets piece trash because it doesnt mount to the stock bracket? do any aftermarket licp's mount there? alright well next time if you wanna post about your "personal experience" than keep your input and opinions personal and dont call other people out cause i certainly wasnt trying to start a injen vs ets vs ams vs muse post. just put in personal input and reults. and lets please not get into the tuner vd graph part, because i sure as hell have one of the top tuners in SoCal
Nisei offers the licp with the bracket, I chose to not buy the ETS pipe based on not having the bracket alone. Other than that they look to be the exact same pipe. I never said the parts were trash. It just is not up to my standards of a proper fit. I think there are a few brands out there who offer the bracket.
I know this post is old. But, I would recommend taking a look at our products.
Picture of stock pipe vs ETS

You can see how huge the difference. The injen pipe is pretty close to stock size around the bend. The smaller section is the start of your intercooler hot side piping. No point in choking up the whole system from the get go. The injen pipe is less than 1.75" around the bend and not ideal for optimal flow. We have seen an increase of 8-12whp by just swapping to a larger diameter piping.
Thanks!
Michael
Picture of stock pipe vs ETS

You can see how huge the difference. The injen pipe is pretty close to stock size around the bend. The smaller section is the start of your intercooler hot side piping. No point in choking up the whole system from the get go. The injen pipe is less than 1.75" around the bend and not ideal for optimal flow. We have seen an increase of 8-12whp by just swapping to a larger diameter piping.
Thanks!
Michael
thanks,
shane
It's called installing the pipe in the coupler properly. Installed mine almost a year ago never had a coupler pop off. where most people pop off couplers are the 2 piece licp in the connecting coupler. Plus being stainless steel over aluminum you don't have to be a ***** with the t bolt clamp, worry about ovaling your intercooler pipe. I've had a stock a 2 piece licp and this ets, of the 3 the ets I've had least problems with. Just so you know min pressure drop is important but I'd rather take a psi or two decrease, if it dropped inlet to outlet of intercooler temp down to ambient or slightly cooler. There aren't many good intercooler that do a good job in 100*f heat that are air to air. just addin my 0.02 its all in your power goal if it's any reasonably high nothing minimum of a 3.5" thickness. good luck
We have ZERO issues with the coupler or pipe coming off. We use stainless steel piping to allow you to clamp the T-bolts as tight as you can get them and it maintains its rigidity. That same lower pipe has gone on many full out race / autocross / rally cars as well as numerous street cars and hasn't let anyone down yet.
It's called installing the pipe in the coupler properly. Installed mine almost a year ago never had a coupler pop off. where most people pop off couplers are the 2 piece licp in the connecting coupler. Plus being stainless steel over aluminum you don't have to be a ***** with the t bolt clamp, worry about ovaling your intercooler pipe. I've had a stock a 2 piece licp and this ets, of the 3 the ets I've had least problems with. Just so you know min pressure drop is important but I'd rather take a psi or two decrease, if it dropped inlet to outlet of intercooler temp down to ambient or slightly cooler. There aren't many good intercooler that do a good job in 100*f heat that are air to air. just addin my 0.02 its all in your power goal if it's any reasonably high nothing minimum of a 3.5" thickness. good luck
We have ZERO issues with the coupler or pipe coming off. We use stainless steel piping to allow you to clamp the T-bolts as tight as you can get them and it maintains its rigidity. That same lower pipe has gone on many full out race / autocross / rally cars as well as numerous street cars and hasn't let anyone down yet. 
Shane
We have ZERO issues with the coupler or pipe coming off. We use stainless steel piping to allow you to clamp the T-bolts as tight as you can get them and it maintains its rigidity. That same lower pipe has gone on many full out race / autocross / rally cars as well as numerous street cars and hasn't let anyone down yet. 
There has to be a point of diminishing returns though. Is there actually a torque spec that you recommend or just snug it down "Good 'n Tight". Telling us to to ahead and tighten the clamp down "tight as you can" is a little open to interpretation depending on our strength, dont you think
I know this thread is months old but isnt pressure drop just an after effect of putting a fmic on with more flow area? I never thought it was a bad thing. I actually get the same power with less boost.
I know this thread is months old but isnt pressure drop just an after effect of putting a fmic on with more flow area? I never thought it was a bad thing. I actually get the same power with less boost after i installed my 3.5" ets. I figured why go cheap on the one thing that keeps your engine intake air low.
I had one of these had issues with the coupler coming off when other than my main mechanic would mess with it.
However when my mechanic who knew what he was doing worked on it...it worked great.
Car made 380 WHP on 89 octane plus meth what more could I ask?
However when my mechanic who knew what he was doing worked on it...it worked great.
Car made 380 WHP on 89 octane plus meth what more could I ask?
I run it putting 31psi holding to redline @545whp. And never had an issue.
There has to be a point of diminishing returns though. Is there actually a torque spec that you recommend or just snug it down "Good 'n Tight". Telling us to to ahead and tighten the clamp down "tight as you can" is a little open to interpretation depending on our strength, dont you think



