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Engine forged built 10W-30 or 10W-40 synthetic oil?

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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 05:52 AM
  #16  
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From: digging for oil
[QUOTE=Jos_iQRacingEVO;10375327]
Originally Posted by apagan01
You will not spin a bearing nor will you harm your engine by running a 10W30 nedless to say a
10W40 !

find out how your motor has been built from a clearance stand point, was it tight or loose ?...QUOTE]

My engine was built with same stock specs clearances. Do that make it tight or loose?

Thanks.
That would be a tight engine, and you can run 0w30 in the winter and all the way up to 10w30 or 40 in summer. No reason whatsoever to run a 50
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Old Sep 2, 2012 | 09:58 PM
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What About a high hp motor that and runs 2.5 thousands main clearance and 3 thousands rod clearance what type of oil is the best after break in
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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 05:22 AM
  #18  
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From: digging for oil
Originally Posted by MRfabolous
What About a high hp motor that and runs 2.5 thousands main clearance and 3 thousands rod clearance what type of oil is the best after break in
When you say high HP what numbers are we talking. High HP could be 400 to some but to me high HP is 500 and above.

I would say a good rule of thumb anything above 500 to run 10w40 and 20w50
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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 06:26 AM
  #19  
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by apagan01
When you say high HP what numbers are we talking. High HP could be 400 to some but to me high HP is 500 and above.

I would say a good rule of thumb anything above 500 to run 10w40 and 20w50
You are the oil master here; absolutely true.

BTW: I was giving some looks to the AMS website; and I am getting interesting about it, the $ is not an issue, so that doesn't worry me, but what worry me is, if I have used Mobil1 almost for the entire life of my engine, if I do change it to another brand just like that, it will not negatively affect or contribute to a faster engine wear etc.???

Last edited by Jos_iQRacingEVO; Sep 3, 2012 at 06:30 AM.
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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 07:05 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Jos_iQRacingEVO
You are the oil master here; absolutely true. Ummmmmm no...

BTW: I was giving some looks to the AMS website; and I am getting interesting about it, the $ is not an issue, so that doesn't worry me, but what worry me is, if I have used Mobil1 almost for the entire life of my engine, if I do change it to another brand just like that, it will not negatively affect or contribute to a faster engine wear etc.???

AMS website as in here??

http://www.amsperformance.com/

Not the same as AMSOIL seen here

http://www.amsoil.com/

To answer your last question no you will see no ill effect or actually any effect at all to be honest going to AMSOIL though you've been running Mobil1 the engines whole life. It'll be fine

See comments in bold
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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 08:09 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by gsrboi80
...

AMS website as in here??

http://www.amsperformance.com/

Not the same as AMSOIL seen here

http://www.amsoil.com/

See comments in bold
Nah, I was looking and talking about this website:

www.ams.org American Mathematical Society.

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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 01:37 PM
  #22  
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Surely if you monitor oil pressures and temperatures this can also give a good indication to what oils you can/should be running.

I have just finished running in my 4g64 forged engine in my evo 5 and i was using 10w40 mineral oil to run in which gave me about 6 bar oil pressure cold idle and about 1.5bar when upto running oil temps between 80c and 90c

When cruising at about 70mph in 5th gear i woud see 5 bar oil pressure and upto about 6 when putting my foot down upto 5000rpm+

Now i have put it fuchs 10w50 oil and i see about 7bar cold idle and just under 2 bar when upto running temps of again between 80c and 90c

And at the same cruise at 70mph in 5th gear i see 6 bar oil pressure and when i put my foot down im guessing about 7 bar at 80c to 90c

To me 7 bar when at running temps is to high what would you guys say??from what i can remembe that about 100psi

I am going to change back to a 5w40 oil i think to drop the pressures when i put my foot down and give the car better protection for the winter months ahead.
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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 02:15 PM
  #23  
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Lightbulb

Originally Posted by craigybaby37
...

To me 7 bar when at running temps is to high what would you guys say??from what i can remembe that about 100psi

I am going to change back to a 5w40 oil i think to drop the pressures when i put my foot down and give the car better protection for the winter months ahead.
7 bar = 101.5 or 102psi aprox. Yes, you should be under 100psi.

And about using a thicker oil will raise the pressure readings, vs. using a thin oil will drop the pressure readings... OF COURSE, it is a simple property of physics: At same pumping conditions if a fluid is thicker then it will create more friction and flowing pressures due to the heavy weight and higher viscosity (equals higher pumping pressure); while thinner fluids will going to flow by the same space a lot easy due that is lighter and more slippery, then the oil pump had to do less power effort to pumped it (equals to less pumping pressure); , no need to waste time on all those experiments, but I still congratulated you for all those measurements, and all that knowledge, that's very important. Thanks.

Last edited by Jos_iQRacingEVO; Sep 3, 2012 at 02:20 PM.
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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 02:47 PM
  #24  
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Now i have put it fuchs 10w50 oil

now that's a good oil!

Fuchs Titan race oil is one of the best you can buy for a high hp EVO or any race car for that matter.this used to be called Silkolene and it's a great 100% synthetic ester based oil.

Motul 300V and Fuchs Titan are probably the two best oil you could possibly buy.
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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 03:32 PM
  #25  
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Exclamation

Originally Posted by masonh
now that's a good oil!

Fuchs Titan race oil is one of the best you can buy for a high hp EVO or any race car for that matter.this used to be called Silkolene and it's a great 100% synthetic ester based oil.

Motul 300V and Fuchs Titan are probably the two best oil you could possibly buy.
Motul 300V are you talking about this one: http://www.motul.com/sv/es-LT/produc...iscosity%5D=28

Well, even with all the ''racing partnership'' reputation that Motul have around the world http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cyr3b...yer_embedded#!... do you really believe that a motor oil that comes from France are along with the best??? I don't think so. Merci.

But in the other hand Fuchs http://www.fuchs-oil.com/ is from DEUTSCHLAND, Germany, so now we are talking about the best.


Vielen Dank!!!

Last edited by Jos_iQRacingEVO; Sep 3, 2012 at 03:37 PM. Reason: Video links added.
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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 03:56 PM
  #26  
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... do you really believe that a motor oil that comes from France are along with the best??? I don't think so. Merci.


Josi,are you trying to be funny again?

what difference does it make where it's made,it's the best.i could buy the Fuchs,but i prefer the 300V and Fuchs would be my second choice followed by Redline.
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 09:50 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Jos_iQRacingEVO
7 bar = 101.5 or 102psi aprox. Yes, you should be under 100psi.

And about using a thicker oil will raise the pressure readings, vs. using a thin oil will drop the pressure readings... OF COURSE, it is a simple property of physics: At same pumping conditions if a fluid is thicker then it will create more friction and flowing pressures due to the heavy weight and higher viscosity (equals higher pumping pressure); while thinner fluids will going to flow by the same space a lot easy due that is lighter and more slippery, then the oil pump had to do less power effort to pumped it (equals to less pumping pressure); , no need to waste time on all those experiments, but I still congratulated you for all those measurements, and all that knowledge, that's very important. Thanks.
Glad i could be of some help i just fort i would put my little bit in the thread as its interesting to see how everyones cars are different.

I swear by any of the fuchs oil range its all that goes in my car now, I like to try keep a mental not of what oil pressures i have at certain revs as that way if a problem should ever arise.
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