Hello, i am running an fb black on a 2.2. block, pushing 32lbs of boost, i have arp headstuds, roughly 600 on a dynojet, at what point to i o-ring the block, i blew a cosworth headgasket after about 10k miles, i am currently running a cometic but i havent put many miles on it

 

i doubt you will need to on a black.

 

O ring the head not the block. Use a OEM Mitsu head gasket. Hasn't failed me yet.

 

this too,but at only 32psi,i wouldn't o-ring anything.there is no need.

 

Never....or 1050whp, whichever comes first.

 

^^^ What he said. I'd also be curious as to why the first head gasket let go.

 

The deck and head werent prepped properly, the timing was too aggressive for the fuel or compression, head studs werent torqued properly (not just to spec), etc. Chances are it was the surfaces.

Aaron

 

i know 32psi isnt that much but i was going to turn it up, the head and block are well within spec, it is likely the guy before me didnt torque down the studs properly...
so from what im getting here is dont o-ring at all.. thanks for the info

 

If an O-Ringed block is separated from its head, could it be reused without re-doing the O-Ring? Or is it a one time and done?

 

as long as the o-ring stays in its groove, a new headgasket only. here is a pic of my block. i think they are stainless and they were ground down after install to limit protrusion. i would probably have to pick them out, they are in there good!

 

Don't waste your time or money. They can still pop just as often as without o-ringing. Or neither can pop ever...

Spend your money on a quality HG such as power enterprise or Cosworth.

 

You spamming skeez gtfo

To the op, you don't need to o-ring anything. Just make sure the surface is clean and and the studs are torqued properly and correctly.

 

i might have the head o-ringed if was shooting for 45-50psi and close to 1000whp

 

Agreed with what most people are saying in here. O-ringing the motor would not be necessary if you are using a good head gasket and have the ARP head studs installed and torqued correctly. There are a lot of higher HP Evo's out there that are not running O-Rings and have been just fine. Like JohnBradley said 1050whp, that is quite a bit more than 600whp and I am betting they where in the 45-55psi rang and GT42R flowing a lot more volume I have ran 35psi out of a GT35R on a stock head gasket with ARP head studs and never had an issue with them so you should be just fine. Key is that your head studs are installed properly and torqued correctly.

Thanks,
Dallin

 

The gasket doesn't 'care' what size turbo or how much boost is used. All the gasket cares about is pressure - either the mechanical pressure of torque, or detonation. In this case, the OP is almost certainly not generating enough torque to stress that gasket. If there are no obvious signs of detonation present(?), then the gasket itself can be ruled out as the cause. And where detonation is present, an effective MLS gasket arrangement will often cause a piston ring land to break first. Additionally, if there is a high heat situation in the top of the block, that can create surface distortion that results in sealing issues. This is mostly a concern for high specific output applications (e.g. >1000whp).

To effect a proper seal, that gasket requires the appropriate straightness and fine finish on deck and head surfaces, and even loading across the fasteners. As sure as death and taxes, there are many instances where surfaces were improperly prepared for a MLS gasket (e.g. >RA 30), and there are many more where the studs and nuts were improperly installed and/or torqued.

Competent o-ringing involves a stainless wire where a receiver groove is machined into the mating surface, or a more malleable copper wire where no receiver groove is used. The diameter of that wire and depth of its groove must take compressed gasket thickness into consideration and be sized accordingly, or it will simply be ineffective. But o-ringing isn't needed here.

More often than not, the problem is with the installation/torquing of the studs and nuts, and 'more' doesn't equal 'better'. If one installs the studs finger snug, uses the latest ARP lube, and doesn't overtighten the nuts, they need no retorquing, and are very reliable in a 4G63.