Just wondering if anyone knows of a specific way to tell which FP wastegate actuator they have? Mine had a number stamped on the mounting plate but I didn't take note of it prior to install. I did notice a green dot on the valve by the nipple if that's any indication. Basically, I could get at most 2 full turns of preload before the turnbuckle hits the locking nut. In this configuration with the compressor j-pipe attached directly to the wastegate, I get at most 14 psi.

I'm writing Amber now, but if anyone has any advice based on the actuators they've installed, I'm all ears. Thanks!

Todd

 

[QUOTE=ToddRhodes;10432224]..... I could get at most 2 full turns of preload before the turnbuckle hits the locking nut. In this configuration with the compressor j-pipe attached directly to the wastegate, I get at most 14#....QUOTE]


Is that with the backup nut run all the way down to the end of the threaded section of the actuator rod? Can you get any more axial travel out of the turnbuckle with the backup nut removed, or was it bottomed out when adjusted to 14#?

Did you order the turbo new from FP and if so what WGA did you specify? Is it an FP actuator, or the stock, MHI unit? Does FP even fit a stock IX actuator to any of their turbos anymore....i don't think so.

We can pretty much eliminate the likelihood of that piece being an FP HD 25# actuator as a measly 14# with 2 turns additional preload already dialed in just seems way too low for that to be a 25 pounder. Most of the 25 pounders free-slide on at 18#. So, cross that possiblity off.

Anyway, AFAIK, FP only makes two flavors of WGA'S for 16g's(18# & 25#). So, if you know it's an FP actuator then my best guess is that it is an 18 pounder. Your particular unit on that turbo would be a pretty wimpy 18 pounder though. It almost is performing like a stocker.

I can tell you one thing though: depending on how much boost(peak level) you want to run and for sure anything over 22# peak for which you'll ideally want to be able to preload it to 18-19#, then you are gonna want to take a hacksaw to the tip of the actuator rod and cut off about three threads.

 

Sparky, I've followed your posts on this topic as I've been researching whether or not I wanted to jump on the better FP actuator.

As for your questions: I can get more axial play out of the actuator arm by removing the backing nut. I would get approximately 3 full threads more adjustment by removing that.

The turbo is an HTA71 upgrade from a IX core. It didn't come with a different wga, it just used the stock IX turbo wga.

Now, I should have tested this arm with some WGDC applied to it before I jumped to conclusions. I rolled into it very slowly this morning and where I would previously hit 24 psi and taper to 21, I spiked all the way up to almost 28 psi. Didn't get any knock or anything but I backed out of the throttle immediately so as not to see what it would "hold" at this point.

I'm going to go ahead and cut my WGDC in half for the ride home from work, but then tonight take the arm back off and do a little more testing with having the backing nut removed so I can generate a little more preload. I only intend to hit and hold 25-26 psi so I don't need a *ton* of preload. Ideally I'd like to be able to hit 20/21 on just the wga alone, but I don't know if three more threads of adjustment will get me up that high.

 

One final thought - if I'm using ecu controlled boost (GM 3 port) and 0 out my WGDC table (I'm not using any of the error correction stuff at this point, just base WGDC), is that effectively like routing the compressor housing directly to the wga nipple? Just asking because that would help with taking off lines I prefer not to disconnect if I don't have to

I also forgot to mention in my final post - thank you for all the information you've put out there on this topic, sparky!

 

I recently purchased a 18 PSI actuator from FP, gave it 6 half turns of pre load and I am only getting 15 PSI with 0% duty cycle on the boost solenoid. There is a video on the FP site where they recommend this, so I am too in the same boat. I was expecting 18 psi.

 

Here is the link for the FP videos:
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...Info_wastegate

 

may be a dumb question, but where is the vac line referenced from? compressor or intake manifold?

 

This is not my area of expertise(if I even have one). But, I'll take a stab at it anyway. I'd say, intake manifold for a vacuum source. I could even explain why I picked IM. But, I'd be skating on thin ice.

Incidentally, the compressor discharge nipple is a good boost pressure reference source for your boost controller.

 

You are welcome. No problem. Sometimes I can't reply to these questions because I do a lot of driving in my line of work on a daily basis. But, for some reason I love the topic and I try to answer your questions as soon as I can. Right now it's tough since we are harvesting corn and busy hauling fuel for the machinery.

 

It's been a few years since I have played around with a GM 3-port solenoid. So, I am probably not the one to ask. But, I think that you should be able to get away with unplugging only two hose ends: The one connected to the WGA port, and the other connected to the j-pipe nipple.

At any rate, even though someone is gonna come on and say that if the WGDC is zeroed out it(BCS) is non-invasive. I just don't trust it being hooked into the loop at all. Probably I am just being superstitious though.

So as a favor to me, just plug off the two open hose ends in the boost hose assembly with golf "T"s and use a single length of 4mm hose to connect from the WGA to the j-pipe.

Go ahead and remove the backup nut that resides behind the turnbuckle. Reinstall the turnbuckle and run it all the way down as far as it will go, until it bottoms out. Afterwards, hook it all back up and go for a WOT run in 3rd or 4th. Keep an eye on peak boost and be prepared to let off on the throttle if that boost spike reappears.

This should get you up to about 17#s of preload depending on how may threads were available. I am guessing three maybe three and a half turns more than where you have it now.

It probably won't satisfy your thirst for spool though. So, after all is said and done you might have to cut about three threads off the tip of the actuator rod. I am just guessing here though as it has been years since I tinkered with a fast spooling turbo and a stock actuator. Call it an educated guess. But, it is advisable to play it safe and just do one full turn at a time and retest after each rotation.

Another reason that I want you to run the hose directly from the turbo to the WGA is that worrisome boost spike that you reported. I want to see if running the gate direct off the turbo gets rid of that spike. So, we kill two birds with one stone....yadayada!