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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 04:48 AM
  #16  
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From: Wilmington NC
Originally Posted by 90blackawdtsi
Freddie every time I have seen the issue you are describing it has 9/10 been the cam sensor.

You said you put a new one in it. Try pulling the battery cables off for a bit.


I have to agree here. Valve springs being worn, while it does hold merrit as a diag, to me doesn't explain why it only happens after banging the rev limit AND once the engine is restarted, it's fine. That sounds electrical, almost like a "limp mode" characteristic, then a key cycle resets the ECM. I would look for a fault in the cam sensor being triggered at high rpms. Can you see any live data for the sensor's voltage or pickup when this happens?
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 07:39 AM
  #17  
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Thanks Sean, I will look at that car more this weekend when I am in GA... the battery is located to the trunk, so I think I will log voltage and make sure all is well on that end as well...
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 08:37 AM
  #18  
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Its loading it up on the rev limiter. What injectors, any methanol, what AFR, what timing?
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 10:34 AM
  #19  
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Aaron, not loading it up on the limiter, only when it goes into this "limp mode" thing it will read lean on wideband ( missfire) but spool the turbo instantly after shifting into 4th and trying to get back in the throttle... sounds kinda like AEM 2 step... but no negative timing shown in the log...

Like I said the cam sensor seemed to get rid of the "limp mode" issue but the car is still breaking up around 7800-8000 rpm with slight missfire, much better than before, but not exactly perfect...

The car has a mini wire tuck done as well as the battery relocated to the trunk, so need to check and make sure all the grounds are good, I know that can jack stuff up as well...

Injectors- FIC 2150s
No Meth
AFR 11.1 at redline
timing 10* at redline
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 11:13 AM
  #20  
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we just pmed you to help u out bro
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 11:59 AM
  #21  
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Rich misfire shows lean on the WB. I guess what what I meant we talked about already.
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 01:25 PM
  #22  
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PM Sent Freddie, I had the exact same problem as you are
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 07:40 AM
  #23  
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Do I have...

Freddie....do I have an equipment issue? something that I need to buy to fix my issue?
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 02:47 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Freddie@Spec-Ops
Guys the car is fully built, it does not have stock valve springs in it... GSC S2s and GSC Beehives, so that rules out valve float...
It doesn't matter if it has aftermarket springs in it. It can still float the valves if the valve height isn't right and you don't have enough seat pressure.
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 05:53 PM
  #25  
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+1 for more opinions. Had thus prob with a built civic of mine, never did figure it out.
Good luck
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 06:15 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by TP EVO VIII
Freddie....do I have an equipment issue? something that I need to buy to fix my issue?
Tony, need you to check the wiring and check for a voltage drop with the lights on...
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 09:27 AM
  #27  
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Voltage

Freddie...
WED Morning
EVO Off: 11.95 VDC
Started, Idle @1.1K rpm: 10.30 VDC
Headlights on, Idle dropped to 800 rpm: 8.64 VDC

Drove GTR to work....

WED after work
EVO Off: 11.95 VDC
Started, Idle @ 1.1K rpm: 14.10 VDC
Headlights on, Idle dropped to 1.0K rpm: 14.00 VDC
AC on, Fan full blast, Headlights on, Idle at 1.0K rpm: 14.00 VDC

Drove EVO to work this morning (THU), only died on me 4 times on my way to work.
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 09:55 AM
  #28  
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Sounds like a bad alternator or connection.
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 12:24 PM
  #29  
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^Bingo... I suspect you may have a missing, loose or broken ground, or something is shorting or not quite right with your battery relocation...
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 06:51 PM
  #30  
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funny, a battery was my problem last week...
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