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Race Balance Shafts AMS vs. GSC

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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 01:51 PM
  #1  
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Question Race Balance Shafts AMS vs. GSC

Hi guys

I searched and searched a lot about this thing
The problem is my oem one is damaged and i decided to buy Balance shaft eliminator

My question is which one to go AMS or GSC or a new OEM ??

gsc sounds good for a 179$, And considering that i can't send in my oem one as a core to ams there is a 170$ fee as a core charge


BTW it's an 06 evo 9

Thanx in advance
SAM
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 02:12 PM
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i have the AMS kit in my old 2.3 which is toasted currently.i looked at pics of the GSC and honestly i don't see why theere should be any difference at all in the 2 kits.they both look very similar.

if you don't have a core GSC is the no brainer choice.
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 07:10 PM
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Stub shaft. Done deal. $12
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 07:48 PM
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the gsc is much thicker in the middle. take that info how you want.
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 04:10 AM
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I had talked to AMS a while back because I had bought their kit from them but didnt end up grabbing it I instead asked them if they minded if i had my machinist turn it down and do the same thing.

They said that its nothing and just need to be turned down till its balanced. Their isn't a load on it ever so thickness isn't a big deal.

So that being said there isn't going to be a difference in which ever one you end up going with.
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 04:02 PM
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Oem stub shaft
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 06:39 PM
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Quoted from AMS website for their Balance shaft removal kit.
The AMS Race Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit is the only “no compromise” way of removing the factory balance shafts. Eliminating the balance shaft not only frees up horsepower, it also reduces the chance of belt failures ending up in catastrophic damage to your motor. In our experience, replacing the front balance shaft with a stub shaft will increase the chances of oil pump failures. This is likely caused by eliminating the support provided by the rear bearing journal. A stub shaft allows the oil pump gears to push apart and wear into the aluminum pump. Aluminum that is being worn away will enter the clean oil stream and contaminate the engine bearings. Eventually this can result in the oil pump seizing. The AMS shaft is machined to eliminate the counterweight while leaving the bearing journal in place to keep the factory engineered support for the oil pump gears.
If this is true i'd be weary of throwing a stub shaft in there.
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 06:52 PM
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Personally, I would go with the GSC race balance shaft.
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 06:54 PM
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There is another thread about the comparison already.
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 07:19 AM
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We have plenty in stock, ready to ship
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 07:28 AM
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The balance shaft is not there to support the oil pump. It is to counteract engine harmonics.
Choose whichever one you like but the OEM stub shaft is the cheapest.
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 08:50 AM
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We are no longer requiring a core to be sent in for these race shafts

http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/A...nator-Kit.html
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by laramie_05MR
The balance shaft is not there to support the oil pump. It is to counteract engine harmonics.
Choose whichever one you like but the OEM stub shaft is the cheapest.
One of the oil pump gears bolts on and is supported by the balance shaft. This mod came from the DSM days where people were prematurely destroying oil pump because the gear wasn't adequately supported. The original solution to this was just run 20w50 since it was probably a built motor anyways. For stock motors with a delete though, 20w50 is un-necessary and 5w30 isn't enough support for the stub shaft.

I am one example of a failed oil pump from running 5w30 with a stub shaft on my 2.4l. I didn't put a turned down balance shaft in as a replacement but the motor does run 20w50 now and hasn't killed the pump yet.
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 08:30 PM
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From: Jersey
Originally Posted by Dallas J
One of the oil pump gears bolts on and is supported by the balance shaft. This mod came from the DSM days where people were prematurely destroying oil pump because the gear wasn't adequately supported. The original solution to this was just run 20w50 since it was probably a built motor anyways. For stock motors with a delete though, 20w50 is un-necessary and 5w30 isn't enough support for the stub shaft.

I am one example of a failed oil pump from running 5w30 with a stub shaft on my 2.4l. I didn't put a turned down balance shaft in as a replacement but the motor does run 20w50 now and hasn't killed the pump yet.
Stub shafts don't kill oil pumps, lack of oil at the pick up does.
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Bean4G63
Stub shafts don't kill oil pumps, lack of oil at the pick up does.
Something like 10 years ago on a specific forum it was universally agreed by the big names of the industry that stub shafts were a cause of oil pump failure and 20w50 was a fix.

Edit: Did some more looking on said forum and see new info saying turned down shaft aint fairy dust. Oil pumps die from lack of oil...

Guess I eat my words

Last edited by Dallas J; Oct 18, 2012 at 10:09 PM.
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