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Building my Motor for 2.3. Need recommendations!

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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 06:55 PM
  #1  
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Building my Motor for 2.3. Need recommendations!

My halfshaft belt snapped this past weekend. Valves dont look like they contacted the pistons, but im taking this opportunity since I have to remove the head to build the entire motor.

Car currently has:
GSC S2 Cam
Hallman Pro MBC
ARP Headstuds
Stock IX Turbo
Supertech Valves/Springs/Retainers
Stock Bottom End
FIC 1450cc Injectors
Walbro 255Pump
Injen CAI/UICP HKS Mushroom Intake
Stock LICP
ETS 3.5" FMIC
Mitsubishi Spark EVO 9 Spark Plugs
Exedy Twin Disk
3" Turboback HKS Hi Power w/ Magnaflow Resonator

Plan is to go w/ an EF3 Turbo tune it on 93/E85. Looking to make a nice conservative 550whp.

I am going to do a 2.3 Build. What do you recommend for parts?

Crank?
Reuse the stock crank?
Manley forged Crank? 100mm
Rods?
-Manley Turbo Tuff?
-Eagle Rods?
Pistons?
Wiseco HD? Piston Size?
Bearings?
ACL's?

I'm looking to spend around 2K on parts total and then whatever rebuilding labor+ re installation of motor costs. Please let me know what you guys think.

Thank You,
Jeff

Last edited by j255c; Oct 24, 2012 at 06:57 PM.
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 07:20 PM
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Going to have to use a 100mm crank if you want a 2.3, 2.0 crank won't work for that purpose.

2k is going to be impossible. Gasket kits(250-300 by itself), oil pump(almost 300) multiple oil changes within 500 miles, etc. Most stroker kits are 1900 minimum.
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 07:56 PM
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4g64 crank, turbo tuffs, 1400 HDs, and a double pumper. One walbro 255 won't be anywhere near enough for you on e85.
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 08:14 PM
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I've been reading Manley cranks are superior to the 4g64 crank? Also I read a walbro with 1450's should be plenty up to 35r territory?
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 10:45 PM
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if i was building a 2.3 i would leave the 100mm OEM crank out of the equation and pay the extra money for a nice billet 100mm crank.problem is the billet cranks are almost $1500 alone.but i don't think you would be wise to limit a 2.3 budget to $2,000 anyway.possibly a 2.0 could go that cheap if you do a lot of scrounging.the 88mm OEM crank will work better than the 100mm OEM for a high revving and high power car though.

i would go with the billet crank,turbo tuff rods,HD pistons and you still under $3,000 for the major internals,but you will still need to spend some money.

like j255 said above i don't trust the 100mm OEM crank with the roll cut journals and basically zero overlap of the journals.i would trust them to about 500whp and 7,500rpm maximum if you want any kind of longevity out of it.but that's just me.the 2.3 and 2.4's are nice,but they need more money than the 2.0 to be solid.
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 11:55 PM
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I would agree mason h. I've known ppl that have the OEM 4g64 crank and have been fine and I know ppl that have had issues. When spending the money to build your motor, build it right the first time to save you time and money later. Also is still with Manley, just my opinion though.
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 11:52 AM
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Next question. What's wrong with using the forged Manley 100mm crank? You can find those for around $ 600. I'm not planning on making any more than 550whp.

So far I've looked around this is what I'm thinking:

Manley 100mm Forged Crank
Manley Turbo Tuff Rods
Wiseco 1400 Pistons
ACL bearings
Half shaft Eliminator Kit
Puts me right around $2100
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by j255c
Also I read a walbro with 1450's should be plenty up to 35r territory?
Maybe on 91/93oct, but I doubt it on e85... assuming you're talking Walbro 255, not 400.
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 12:55 PM
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Next question. What's wrong with using the forged Manley 100mm crank? You can find those for around $ 600. I'm not planning on making any more than 550whp.
honestly i don't know much about them,i would imagine they are better than OEM just for the radiused fillets.

i think the billet is just stronger by nature,maybe 3-4 times stronger and i think strength is what you need on that 100mm crank because there is no/minimal overlap of the journals,rod to main.
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 01:07 PM
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I'll give Buschur/MAP/Manley a call and see what they think.
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 02:53 PM
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Spoke to MAP:

Manley Crank 100MM is good for 8000rpm max
Manley TT Rods
Wiseco Piston 1400's
ACL Bearings
Halfshaft Eliminator Kit
EF3- Core Exchange

Will start piecing this together around XMAS
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 05:55 PM
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Manley Crank 100MM is good for 8000rpm max

about what i figured.

what did they say about the billet 100mm?
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Old Oct 26, 2012 | 04:42 PM
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Work with Tachmotorworks or Spec ops
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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 01:33 AM
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Originally Posted by j255c
Spoke to MAP:

Manley Crank 100MM is good for 8000rpm max
Manley TT Rods
Wiseco Piston 1400's
ACL Bearings
Halfshaft Eliminator Kit
EF3- Core Exchange

Will start piecing this together around XMAS
I have the Manley Crank 100mm I also have the Manly TT Rods and the Wiseco 85mm bore 9:0:1 pistons...I run e85 with the with the HKS GTII 7460R Turbo...at 28PSI I am at 497RWHP and 498RWTQ...The car is getting retuned at 34 PSI spike so I am hoping to pick up additional 60-80HP...the TQ is sick...I hear my turbo spooling at 2600 RPM...so it probably spools even sooner if I can hear it at that RPM...very fun street car...2.3L FTW...I don't have any experience with the EF3 turbo but isn't it JB turbo?
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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 09:14 PM
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Yes it is. ^ You have the billet or the forged 100mm manley crank?

I'm thinking change of plans, I may just keep the stock IX turbo on it and try to make it a torque beast.
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