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Main cross member removal HELP!

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Old Nov 17, 2012 | 10:03 PM
  #16  
arnoldp's Avatar
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Don't hit the tie rod but pound on the knuckle. They also make a tool that presses them out. You may be able to rent one from autozone or advanced. I also put a small amount of anti seize on them once they are out so they are a little easier to remove the next time.
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Old Nov 17, 2012 | 10:36 PM
  #17  
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Well still no luck. I have a couple of pitman pulleys and neither worked or fit just right. so I went to the auto store and bought a smaller one. One side popped right off with that one, but the other side is fused. I also bought a torch and heated the knuckle. Didn't help. I am now resorting to taking the knuckle off of the car by turning it off of the tie rod and then doing the work in my press somehow.

Off of the car I could get a sledge hammer going on it if needed. That ball joint is totally gone now anyway. The top of the bolt is actually flared out and wider now. most of the other bolts in my car have come out pretty easy but these ones have surprised me. This job is going to take me a few more days
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 05:52 AM
  #18  
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just get a BFH and hit it. If you have to thread the nut on a little and hit the nut directly with a sledge. That will get it out.
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 07:43 AM
  #19  
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u dont need to remove that stuff man.
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 08:47 AM
  #20  
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Agreed ^^ I'm the OP and I decided to not even touch the cross member, it was a pita getting out but getting it in is much easier (the tranny) just make sure you pry the engine forward and take the motor mount bracket off the tyranny, I didn't take that off getting it out so that's why it gave me a hard time
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 10:09 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by ILuvJDM
just get a BFH and hit it. If you have to thread the nut on a little and hit the nut directly with a sledge. That will get it out.
I can't quite get a sledge in there with a decent swing, and the other hammers I have used have only flattened the top of the bolt. Since I need to retain the nut, I actually removed it, because I was hitting it so hard it was getting bound to the bolt as the threads were deforming.

If you had been here to see the beating me and a friend of mine laid on that things after shattering one pitman puller, and the rest not working, you'd be impressed. I have to give it fresh try today, but out of the car is where I think I will be able to use the press, or really swing a sledge. Either one should do it. In/On the car I am kind of stuck.
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 10:27 AM
  #22  
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For reference when I did it I soaked it in PB blaster. It came off when I hit the nut on the thread with a sledge on both sides. I used massive force but made sure to hit it in the right spot. Being the center of the top of the thread.

In your situation, where the thread, I am guessing, has mushroomed itself stuck. You might need to cut it or drill it out or both. If you are thinking about unbolting the hub you would also need to unbolt the axle. That is a lot of work and you cannot reuse the axle nut, washer, or locking pin.
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 10:47 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by deylag
For reference when I did it I soaked it in PB blaster. It came off when I hit the nut on the thread with a sledge on both sides. I used massive force but made sure to hit it in the right spot. Being the center of the top of the thread.

In your situation, where the thread, I am guessing, has mushroomed itself stuck. You might need to cut it or drill it out or both. If you are thinking about unbolting the hub you would also need to unbolt the axle. That is a lot of work and you cannot reuse the axle nut, washer, or locking pin.
hhhmmm, I re-used the axle castle nut, washer, and even the pine several times. The pin now however is shot. What is the reason you can't reuse the castle nut? Does it change shape or something? I haven't read that before.

Oh, I also soaked it in PB blaster.
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 11:04 AM
  #24  
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You shouldnt have to remove the subframe to take out/put in the tranny.

Also, you dont have to take off the tie rod ends (steering rod ball joints) to do the tranny job.
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 11:46 AM
  #25  
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^^yup and I reuse the castle nut and washer on every clutch/tranny job I do, I reuse the cotter pin also if its still in good condition
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 03:32 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Boosted Tuning
You shouldnt have to remove the subframe to take out/put in the tranny.

Also, you dont have to take off the tie rod ends (steering rod ball joints) to do the tranny job.
Yup the OP was doing the trans but I am installing a front sway, WL roll center kit, and steering box bushings. so the subframe needs to come down or off, and the tie rod ends get replaced, so they need to come off.
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 05:42 PM
  #27  
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Ohhh okay I thought you were doing a tranny swap too, now I could see why this is relevant to what your doing, good luck bro keep us updated!
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