Bad gas? Expert advice needed
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Bad gas? Expert advice needed
I posted this recently on the Buschur facebook page, no response
. I had filled up my '03 evo and then went to a spectator area for a rally. I played along the way in the mud and puddles, maybe 15-20 miles. After I got back in the evo and left, I noticed the car was running way lean, and a loss of power. We unplugged injectors individually when idling, and there was no difference when #3 was unplugged. Compression test showed #3 was a little low. No boost leaks. Spark on all plugs.
I was going to try to drive home, but car got even worse, barely made it up a hill, had to get a running start to get it on a trailer. Timing is dead on, MAF is clean, injectors are not dirty, barely any water in gas tank (half a teaspoon). Gas was getting to the injectors. My area has switched to the winter blend gas. Car won't even start now.
I'm thinking of pouring a bottle of dry gas in the tank and a few gallons of gas. Oh, walbro tested fine. But before I put everything back together, I would like some ideas of what else to try/ what the culprit could be. I pulled the valve cover and everything looks fine. Thanks for looking, and any help.
. I had filled up my '03 evo and then went to a spectator area for a rally. I played along the way in the mud and puddles, maybe 15-20 miles. After I got back in the evo and left, I noticed the car was running way lean, and a loss of power. We unplugged injectors individually when idling, and there was no difference when #3 was unplugged. Compression test showed #3 was a little low. No boost leaks. Spark on all plugs.I was going to try to drive home, but car got even worse, barely made it up a hill, had to get a running start to get it on a trailer. Timing is dead on, MAF is clean, injectors are not dirty, barely any water in gas tank (half a teaspoon). Gas was getting to the injectors. My area has switched to the winter blend gas. Car won't even start now.
I'm thinking of pouring a bottle of dry gas in the tank and a few gallons of gas. Oh, walbro tested fine. But before I put everything back together, I would like some ideas of what else to try/ what the culprit could be. I pulled the valve cover and everything looks fine. Thanks for looking, and any help.
If you were out playing in the mud then i'd check all of the connectors in and around the engine bay. Maybe you snagged something and a plug came undone.
Happened to me once on my wrx. Was cruising down the highway and the car died. I checked EVERYTHING. Turns out that my front 02 sensor got frayed somehow and shorted out.
Happened to me once on my wrx. Was cruising down the highway and the car died. I checked EVERYTHING. Turns out that my front 02 sensor got frayed somehow and shorted out.
Are there any OBD-II codes being triggered? Although the MAF may be clean, it may not be sending a good signal any more (MAF failure symptoms sometimes includes weird power loss, etc)...
Checking the output on the injectors and coilpacks might be something to check too. Since you mentioned no change in idle when pulling #3, that makes me think possible signal issue to either #3 injector or #3 coilpack.
Thanks!
S.
Checking the output on the injectors and coilpacks might be something to check too. Since you mentioned no change in idle when pulling #3, that makes me think possible signal issue to either #3 injector or #3 coilpack.
Thanks!
S.
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Check your injector resistor pack. I have had one go bad it killed one of the 4 injectors.
You could just put a noid light on the injector connector to check for power also.
You could just put a noid light on the injector connector to check for power also.
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Ok guys, this is what I needed, some ideas to try. There is a cel, but that is always there from egr removed/exhaust mods. I don't know how to tell if front 02 is bad, or the MAF. On the injectors, do I need to crank engine to check? THANX!
pull the cel to make sure something else didnt pop up
so now the engine cranks but doesnt turn on?
you know i had a situation once where i was coming home from work usual routine and i stopped at the light 3 blocks away from my house and on green i went and the car stalled and died...had to tow the car home and tore everything apart to finding out the teeths on the timing belt was gone right along the crank pulley that was what caused the car not to start even though it still cranked... before that i checked compression which is good across the board, but no spark and no fuel... figure it was cuz the crank sensor was not giving power to those areas due to crank not spinning... check everything out sensors, belts, relays, boost leaks, etc...
you know i had a situation once where i was coming home from work usual routine and i stopped at the light 3 blocks away from my house and on green i went and the car stalled and died...had to tow the car home and tore everything apart to finding out the teeths on the timing belt was gone right along the crank pulley that was what caused the car not to start even though it still cranked... before that i checked compression which is good across the board, but no spark and no fuel... figure it was cuz the crank sensor was not giving power to those areas due to crank not spinning... check everything out sensors, belts, relays, boost leaks, etc...
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Problem found! I had never really messed with evoscan, but I have the program and cable. So I checked that and was happy that you can check DTC's. I ended up finding that my injector resistor pack doesn't have ohms on a couple of the connections. I'm having trouble finding a new one (not a fan of e-bay), I might have to go hi-Z and delete plug. Thanx again!
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