hi so i have an evo 8 gsr 4g63 i believe motor thats sitting in my garage and i decided im going to build it myself than having it sent out..so i have a couple questions on doing a drop in build..i already have upgraded everything from the turbo, injectors, bolt on parts and what not..also i have a head that has been built, ported and ready to go..so my main question is..who can help my build this bottom end!?

My questions

im going to stick with the standard size and just have the machine shop resurface the block, hone and etc...what else do i need to have done to stick within my 2.0l motor

Is the oem crank still good enough to get me to 600+ hp or should i go ahead and buy a brand new "performance" crank

im thinking about going with the je pistons and crower rods..anyone know if these are good? and also what is the difference between almunium rods vs steel rods?

and lastly what tools would i need to get everything put in correctly and what oils should i use to lube the parts when im putting them in?

if im missing anything else please feel free to post up

my budget would be about 5k for the block since the head has already been completed..and after my motor is done i would like to upgrade my drivetrain and transmission too thanks!

 

The 4g63 is a simple, straight forward engine to build.

The stock crank will take 600hp and more.

When having the block decked(and the head) make sure that the proper surface finish is on both surfaces for the HG you want to run. Also do not let them deck the block more than .007, after that the pistons will come out the top of the block.

Je has a "on the shelf piston" for the 4g, and also a custom one based off the shelf piston. You may want to ask about the custom one for the 600 HP level.

Before you go and order the pistons, have the machine shop check the cylinders for wear, out of round and taper. It the block needs board , you will need to know before you get pistons.

Look into a BSE, Balance shaft elimination kit. also a set of ARP head studs.

Have the rotating assembly balanced, crank, rods, pistons, Balancer, flywheel and pressure plate.

Also look into a full timing belt kit.

Tear down and inspect the front case/oil pump for wear.

Regular engine oil is what I use for engine assembly.

Special tools needed will be a good and accurate torque wrench, a piston ring compressor and a ring file.

The list can go on, but those are the basics.

You say you had the head rebuilt, may I ask by who?

What valves, and valve springs are installed? Did you, are you going with a cam upgrade?

 

For the head it was built when i bought the car...but he put in all BC hardware plus the 272 cams..i know it was built because i saw receipts and my buddy inspected the head for me..he works for prototype composites here in Wisconsin..but i would like to get the more aggressive kellfords or gsc

Also the BSE i would probably go with ams..unless there's a better one for a better price and when balancing the rotating assembly you mean have the pistons/rods counterweight each other so that there isn't too much vibrations going on?

when you say full timing belt kit what are you taking about? I would purchase a new oe or gates timing belt

And i bought a new front case when the old motor blew so it only has about 1k miles in it..it should be good for the new build I'm hoping

But i guess the biggest concern would be machining the block..I've never had it done and don't know what to look for or ask..when i built my Honda b18 my uncle did the work so i didn't get much experience from that..so i have alot of questions on that for sure..

 

I had my front balance shaft turned down on a lathe for $60 and bought the standard BSE kit for the bearings, etc. You will need your pistons and (preferably) ARP main studs before taking the block to the machine shop so they can line hone the main bores and get your exact piston-to-wall clearance. Also, the OEM crank and any good piston/rod set should be fine for 600hp, I recommend steel rods for a street car as well.

 

If you have over 40k miles do yourself a favor and bore .020" over.

 

Ok i guess I'll be going .020" over to get my fresh start..so my question now changes to what piston and rod combo will give me the best bang for the buck and staying within my hp range..my limit will still be 5k for this build..i know with this overbore size the market has just increased by alot for my rod/piston combo

And would you guys recommend cutting the oem crank? I already had it inspected and its perfectly fine to be used again..i know some guys here are totally against it and some recommend it

it be nice to have someone from ams boostin performance or beyond redline here to help because they're 2hrs away and ill be going there for my tune haha

 

GSC Power Division do a BSE if you don't want/can't send your core.

 

AMS dropped their pricing a lot and do not require a core anymore.

As for the OPs OEM crank, DO NOT get it cut if it's in good condition, I do recommend getting it micropolished as well as brand new cranks. Knife-edging is another option that will take off some weight but I don't think it's really anything to worry about in your build. Your budget will create a solid setup and then some.

 

I have read some threads on the BSE but can you guys put it into simpler terms?

And i have thought about knife-edging the crank but what would i gain from that?
Would you guys recommend me just having to have a shop do my motor or should i go for it? Some people say if you don't know what you're doing don't..but i love to learn and get my hands dirty..i feel that its more gratifying when you complete something and can say you did that!

 

I built my own engine in my Evo and had a blast doing it. It was my 1st time building an engine as well, huge accomplishment for me having no idea what was going on prior. Just keep doing research and check up on some DSM forums too and over time, you'll acquire tons of knowledge.

 

Do you have aa build thread so i can get an idea of what to do! But Awesome..i feel like I'm buying my first Honda again haha..I'm starting with the disassembly tmrw! I'll post up pics if i can..but I'll still need some guidance and answers for some of my questions

As for piston and rod combo i did want to go with a Stroker set up but i think I'll stick with the standard rod and pistons..still feel like the crower rod and je piston combo is good to reach 600hp!

 

Here's link to a build thread with good info.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/al...o-9-build.html

 

Block work

* clean block
* bore block, order pistons,hone block (perfered to have a torque plate used)
* ARP main studs, have main bores checked and align hone as needed.
*Deck Block

Crank

* polish or grind as needed A .010/.010 grind will not hurt the crank at this level

The BC272 cams will get you to the 500 or so level

If you go Kelfords272, you will need new springs and retainers.

Yes the cut down rear oil pump BS is a much better set up over the stubby shaft set up with the BSE

When I said a full timing belt kit,I mean belt, tentioners, all of it

You have a good selction of pistons to choose from, Wiseco, JE, Mahle
Same for rods, Egale,Manley

Good your friend kooked over your head, I do not know what working with prototype composites has to do with cylinder head inspection....

If you do not mind, can you, will you name the shop that built it? There is a shop that builds some DSM heads, Lets just say they do not have the best work put out.

A BSE is a simple thing to do for the most part, flip both front BS bearings so the oil holes are blocked.
Any kit with the grooved stubby shaft will work just fine.

 

I don't have a build thread as I was more about getting work done than taking pics. I did take a lot of time prepping the cylinder walls after I got the block back from the machine shop. I used a ball hone from Flex-Hone with kerosene at a low speed while working it in/out quickly to give it a good crosshatch angle. I then used a nylon de-burring brush also from Flex-Hone full speed while spraying hot, soapy water in the bores. You then need lots a brake cleaner(for the whole build actually) and blue shop towels to clean the cylinder walls until the towels are clean and then some.

I took a lot of extra steps and several months building my block so feel free to PM me and I'll give you all the details I can remember.

I bought this book and it was a major help:

and took every step in this thread:
http://highboostforum.com/forum/show...of-a-Race-4g63

 

A ball hone will do little more than brake the glaze for new rings. A good cross hatch can achieved by a good rigid stone hone.

The book is a good place to start. The more you know the better off you are.

The build thread you linked is an intresting read. Some good detailing of the block is in there.