Pressing in new balance shaft bearings
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From: Rockwall, TX
Pressing in new balance shaft bearings
Hey Guys,
I'm hoping to order my GSC race balance shaft kit this week. I've already knocked out the old bearings from my block. The block previously had a full elimination done so I had to remove the one that would normally be left in.
I'm sure that putting in the clocked bearings will be a breeze as I don't have to worry about mucking them up. I'm more worried about the one that will have the new race shaft in it. I'd do it with a socket, but I'm worried that I'll mar it. Should I chance it, or have my machine shop press it in while they're doing the mains?
Brady
I'm hoping to order my GSC race balance shaft kit this week. I've already knocked out the old bearings from my block. The block previously had a full elimination done so I had to remove the one that would normally be left in.
I'm sure that putting in the clocked bearings will be a breeze as I don't have to worry about mucking them up. I'm more worried about the one that will have the new race shaft in it. I'd do it with a socket, but I'm worried that I'll mar it. Should I chance it, or have my machine shop press it in while they're doing the mains?
Brady
Installing Cam bearings is a bit tricky, it is not hard to do tho.
Since you are going with the GSC supported BSE, the one behind the oil pump will be a tad tricky.
The clearace is not much, so if you crimp it, or get the install off, that shaft will be tight or not spin at all.
A true cam bearing install tool should be used.
Like the Lisle 18000 or a Dura-bond, both use a center cone on the handle.

Have the shaft installed in the front case.
Once the bearing is installed, test fit the front case, with a couple bolts.
You should be able to spinn the oil pump with your fingers. If you can not, the bearing install got flubbed, and the shaft is to tight in the bearing.
I can not see why a machine shop would charge more that $10-20 to install the one bearing.
Since you are going with the GSC supported BSE, the one behind the oil pump will be a tad tricky.
The clearace is not much, so if you crimp it, or get the install off, that shaft will be tight or not spin at all.
A true cam bearing install tool should be used.
Like the Lisle 18000 or a Dura-bond, both use a center cone on the handle.

Have the shaft installed in the front case.
Once the bearing is installed, test fit the front case, with a couple bolts.
You should be able to spinn the oil pump with your fingers. If you can not, the bearing install got flubbed, and the shaft is to tight in the bearing.
I can not see why a machine shop would charge more that $10-20 to install the one bearing.
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (11)
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,310
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From: Rockwall, TX
That's probably a good call. I may just put the 2 in that are clocked myself and have them put the other in. Better than having to wait and order a new one after I screw it up.
bearings are very soft. you cant hammer them in without damage no matter what the tool used. they are to be pressed in with proper install tool. preferable the Mitsubishi one. I run balance shafts in all my rebuilds. take it from someone who knows or be sorry later
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