Serious oil burning problem, really need some insight
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 144
Likes: 1
From: harleysville pa
Serious oil burning problem, really need some insight
hey guys havent been on here in a bit because I have been away at school and avoiding my car for a bit because I was getting entirely too frustrated with it.
OK so long story short last year around this time i started my 2.4 build w/ a custom 25g setup some of you may have seen my build thread I will link it at the bottom of this post if for some reason it can be of use to shed light on this issue.
So I put in a stage 1 MAP 2.4 motor with a new turbo last yr i bought the shortblock assembly from MAP and assembled the rest myself, everything went smoothly and i fired the car up as I was doing my idle break in my timing belt came loose bc my tensioner mustve been greasy on the back side. After that happened i through it back together and did a leak down to check valves found I bent 2 exhaust 2 intake so i had them replaced at my machine shop.
Then I buttoned it back up and started it up the car ran great i did my break in according to procedure and even implemented a few extra oil changes along the way to ensure everything would remain healthy.
I did a few oil changes between initial start and 500 miles and then i went from 500 to 1000 and this is when i really started to find this problem one day i went out and drove 280 miles in a day and when i got back home i check my oil and i burned 1/2 a qt thought that was weird so i look around for leaks smoke etc cant find anything. I do an oil change at 1000 and look at 1300 im 1/2 qt low again top it off and check again in 300 miles same deal
Long story short I am burning 1/2 qt every 300 miles religiously
I have looked the car over for leaks etc there are none pulled plugs and there dry. checked the coldside of the turbo everythings dry hotside i checked as well for oil residue nothing but carbon. I also ran a leak down test and got back acceptable values all within 8 psi of eachother compression is also good.
So my question is where can I look next?
Hope you guys have some more ideas because im tapped out for now! thanks guys
OK so long story short last year around this time i started my 2.4 build w/ a custom 25g setup some of you may have seen my build thread I will link it at the bottom of this post if for some reason it can be of use to shed light on this issue.
So I put in a stage 1 MAP 2.4 motor with a new turbo last yr i bought the shortblock assembly from MAP and assembled the rest myself, everything went smoothly and i fired the car up as I was doing my idle break in my timing belt came loose bc my tensioner mustve been greasy on the back side. After that happened i through it back together and did a leak down to check valves found I bent 2 exhaust 2 intake so i had them replaced at my machine shop.
Then I buttoned it back up and started it up the car ran great i did my break in according to procedure and even implemented a few extra oil changes along the way to ensure everything would remain healthy.
I did a few oil changes between initial start and 500 miles and then i went from 500 to 1000 and this is when i really started to find this problem one day i went out and drove 280 miles in a day and when i got back home i check my oil and i burned 1/2 a qt thought that was weird so i look around for leaks smoke etc cant find anything. I do an oil change at 1000 and look at 1300 im 1/2 qt low again top it off and check again in 300 miles same deal
Long story short I am burning 1/2 qt every 300 miles religiously
I have looked the car over for leaks etc there are none pulled plugs and there dry. checked the coldside of the turbo everythings dry hotside i checked as well for oil residue nothing but carbon. I also ran a leak down test and got back acceptable values all within 8 psi of eachother compression is also good.
So my question is where can I look next?
Hope you guys have some more ideas because im tapped out for now! thanks guys
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 144
Likes: 1
From: harleysville pa
havent double checked them that is certainly a potential problem i had figured if it were a valve stem seal my plugs would be wet but im sure thats not necessarily true. In order to check them can i just pop the vc and visually check them/ reseat them from there if that is the case?
If the valve stem seals came off the valve guide, I doubt you will get it to seat properly trying to do it thu the spring.
As far as the oil consumption,
Do you have a Catch can set up?
Have you checked the TB/Intake for oil?
As far as the oil consumption,
Do you have a Catch can set up?
Have you checked the TB/Intake for oil?
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 144
Likes: 1
From: harleysville pa
hey buddy sorry forgot to mention a few aspects in the original post i do have a catch can two -10 lines to a jmfab delxe can so anyblow by would deffinitely be getting caught and the can is completely dry. I should not however that the can smokes quite a bit when idling and driving much more then my buddy bobs car also with a 2.4 and the same catch can setup.
i have checked coldside and hotside of the turbo and intake pipe all were dry also i still have a recirc bov so anything coming through the intake mani would eventually get through there however all of that is bone dry not even a film of oil in the piping
Also good to know about the seals i will most likely just buy the euro export tool and pump in shop air to the cylinders if and when i end up doing the seals
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 144
Likes: 1
From: harleysville pa
good to know man i appreciate the info im heading out of town tomo so i wont get to check them out until im back most likely but i do hope its them that'd be a great easy fix so i can move one with the car. Ill keep this updated with what I find
What was your percentage of leak down?? in each cylinder.
Also compression readings. If they were all within 8% is great but i just did a compression test, they were all equally low and the rings were bad in the entire engine.
Also compression readings. If they were all within 8% is great but i just did a compression test, they were all equally low and the rings were bad in the entire engine.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 144
Likes: 1
From: harleysville pa
compression was 165 157 160 160 leakdown 8% 10% 8% 8% respectively. mind you i have 9.0:1 wescos and this was done after a 15 minute idle so the car was warm enough to cycle the fans but not as hot as if i were to go drive it hard for awhile.
The car doesnt smoke at all on acceleration from what i can tell so i hope that my rings seated properly.... plugs were a little black when i pulled them but not wet
The car doesnt smoke at all on acceleration from what i can tell so i hope that my rings seated properly.... plugs were a little black when i pulled them but not wet
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 144
Likes: 1
From: harleysville pa
appologies on the original posts wording i meant to say they were under 8% leakdown although when i pulled my record that was the exact numbers so i was wrong in both wording and stats but hopefully that will clear it up
hey buddy sorry forgot to mention a few aspects in the original post i do have a catch can two -10 lines to a jmfab delxe can so anyblow by would deffinitely be getting caught and the can is completely dry. I should not however that the can smokes quite a bit when idling and driving much more then my buddy bobs car also with a 2.4 and the same catch can setup.
i have checked coldside and hotside of the turbo and intake pipe all were dry also i still have a recirc bov so anything coming through the intake mani would eventually get through there however all of that is bone dry not even a film of oil in the piping
Also good to know about the seals i will most likely just buy the euro export tool and pump in shop air to the cylinders if and when i end up doing the seals
i have checked coldside and hotside of the turbo and intake pipe all were dry also i still have a recirc bov so anything coming through the intake mani would eventually get through there however all of that is bone dry not even a film of oil in the piping
Also good to know about the seals i will most likely just buy the euro export tool and pump in shop air to the cylinders if and when i end up doing the seals
So this is a vented can?
And it is dry? It should not be, where is the vapor going?
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 144
Likes: 1
From: harleysville pa


