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quartermaster 8 leg street....frustration

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Old Dec 27, 2012 | 02:03 PM
  #16  
BiteEmNBeatEm's Avatar
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Rob the answer lies in these three letter/numbers:
"0 Z 6"
your a smart boy you'll figure it out
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Old Dec 27, 2012 | 02:27 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by BiteEmNBeatEm
Rob the answer lies in these three letter/numbers:
"0 Z 6"
your a smart boy you'll figure it out
Lol

Regardless of what car it is, problems are still gonna occur no matter what car.
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Old Dec 27, 2012 | 02:35 PM
  #18  
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only if its owned by Robby Rob!!
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Old Dec 27, 2012 | 02:58 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by BiteEmNBeatEm
only if its owned by Robby Rob!!
Robby rob at it again lol
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Old Dec 27, 2012 | 03:31 PM
  #20  
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Doesnt surprise me. I have yet to personally see or personally know anyone with a qm. or ptt. style twin disc, old or new style last very long when being street driven. All I can say is "race car problems" ha.
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Old Dec 27, 2012 | 03:57 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Anarchy99
It may not have been shimmed correctly at the HRB when it was installed. Mine had 740whp with no problems on that clutch and my friend had 800hp on a 6 leg with no problem.
Agrees.
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Old Dec 28, 2012 | 08:18 AM
  #22  
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Well When I called qm they did say it didnt have to be shimmed and 99% of us get away with not shimming........ I guess I might be that 1% -_-
Also Is there suppose to be a break in period? The clutch was bought with 300 miles on it already But I looked over everything and it was beautiful no heat spots on the flywheel or anything just normal wear..... (break in miles) SO after i installed it I drove it like 50miles then hit the dyno car held fine then we made more power and now it slips


Glazing? From slipping the clutch too much? Now how would this come about so fast I would hardly slip it maybe a few times when i first drove it but after a day or 2 I got use to it
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Old Dec 28, 2012 | 08:20 AM
  #23  
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It slips at high rpm!!! 3rd 4th and 5th
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Old Dec 28, 2012 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Robertv34
Well When I called qm they did say it didnt have to be shimmed and 99% of us get away with not shimming........ I guess I might be that 1% -_-
Also Is there suppose to be a break in period? The clutch was bought with 300 miles on it already But I looked over everything and it was beautiful no heat spots on the flywheel or anything just normal wear..... (break in miles) SO after i installed it I drove it like 50miles then hit the dyno car held fine then we made more power and now it slips


Glazing? From slipping the clutch too much? Now how would this come about so fast I would hardly slip it maybe a few times when i first drove it but after a day or 2 I got use to it

WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!! You know how many folks have ruined motors because they did not measure the hydraulic throw out bearing clearances!!!!!!!?????

When i received my QM 8leg twin race version for my 2.4L and did the measuring. I had absolutely no clearance at all between the clutch fingers and the throw out bearing. I had to machine .125" of the slider piece (no idea what its called) in order to get the clearance it required. Besides that little issue. I have put over 7k DD miles at 552/455 on my 2.4L Evo 9 in less then 2 months with absolutely no issues.
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Old Dec 28, 2012 | 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 2006GSR
WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!! You know how many folks have ruined motors because they did not measure the hydraulic throw out bearing clearances!!!!!!!?????

When i received my QM 8leg twin race version for my 2.4L and did the measuring. I had absolutely no clearance at all between the clutch fingers and the throw out bearing. I had to machine .125" of the slider piece (no idea what its called) in order to get the clearance it required. Besides that little issue. I have put over 7k DD miles at 552/455 on my 2.4L Evo 9 in less then 2 months with absolutely no issues.

Not sure if it is the same, but a 2.4 may be slightly different as far as shimming goes. Even if it is a 4G63 crank.

Correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old Dec 28, 2012 | 04:35 PM
  #26  
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If you shim the HTOB, wouldn't that put the bearing closer to the fingers? Plus according to QM the bearing will always ride the fingers as there is nothing but the fingers pushing the bearing back.
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 12:09 AM
  #27  
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Did the OP resolve his issue? Wondering cuz I'm thinking about getting the 8-leg. What about the shimming? Does it need it when using the 4G43 and OEM crank?
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 05:29 AM
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It is definitely a very sensitive clutch. I've got an older 6 leg ( used and rebuilt) and it makes up it own mind when it wants to engage. Put close to 10k street on mine and the only brake in I did was drive about 4 hrs to tx2k. Htob tho no shims.
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 07:05 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by forcefedkid
It is definitely a very sensitive clutch. I've got an older 6 leg ( used and rebuilt) and it makes up it own mind when it wants to engage
6 leg is harsher.. either way do you have a pedal stop? helps a ton on "knowing" the engagement
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 09:58 AM
  #30  
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Shimming is always required. You might get luck without doing so but you might now. Clutch adjustment is key.

I also have a fresh 8-leg and it shifts amazing with my fresh Hayes trans. Currently 800whp/500wtq.
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