keep in mind the radiator isnt solidly mounted. its on rubber bushings that give it slack to let it move around a little.

 

Also in the market eventually. Does the CBRD thin core allow for most popular turbo setups? stock, FP or the PTE line of turbos? I would like to eventually do a 6262 build and dont want to buy a rad that wont work. Thanks guys

 

yes, it will give you more clearence than the stock radiator.

 

If straight hose is what your after mishimoto is also another consideration.

 

I bought the CBRD 1.5" OEM replacement since they didn't have any 1" in stock and they would take 3-4 weeks to make.....
It is the same mounting as stock with all of the same mounting tabs and fan mounts, but has the "straight" upper hose and much better cooling.

 

are you going to want to go forward Facing or stander facing. bc if you want forward facing you may want to go with a 1/2 rad. Just sometthing to think about

 

If your asking me... No Im not wanting FF I want to keep my A/C

 

something to keep in mind..radiator inlets and outlets are not arbitrarily placed. (this is to add onto the discussion earlier on straight hose vs bent hose between engine and the radiator). The radiator is a heat exchanger you want to maximize the efficiency of the heat exchanger for the space that you have. Part of the efficiency is based on the flow of the fluid on the outside of the heat exchanger (airflow through the radiator). Part of the efficiency is based on the flow of fluid inside the heat exchanger.

Lets look at an extreme example: Inlet and outlet on the far right side of the radiator (when viewed from the front). A fluid wants to flow where there is least resistance. This means that most of the fluid will want to shoot from the inlet to the outlet and stay on the right side of the radiator. This means that your full size radiator is functioning at about the same level as a half radiator working efficiently.

This is why you will see that most OEM radiators have either the inlet in the middle of the top of the radiator, or they have it on one side with the outlet on the far corner from the inlet. when they put the inlet far from center because of other constraints, you will notice that a well designed radiator plays with the end tanks to direct flow evenly through the full width of the radiator...

 

If going the with upper hose on the driver's side you can get an OEM hose like this:




Or aftermarket like this:

 

I have had CBRD radiators in my past two evos... for sure top notch pieces and have NEVER had a problem.

 

This is a good thread, some questions:

How do you know you need a new radiator? When your temps rise?
What mods necessitate the need for a radiator? Can you look at a mod list and say, "Yeah, this guy will probably need a radiator."
How good is the OEM piece? When should it be replaced?


I have a stock one in my modded evo, but I was considering putting in a CBRD radiator. I might not need to though.

 

It all depends on what you are going to do with it.
In my case I pulled my head and was surprised to see that a 1k mile motor had "rusty" antifreeze in it and the antifreeze didn't look good. I am going to do track days with it and might eventually do some road racing so I think it will be necessary in the future. Also, I have it all apart and now I am upgrading a few things so I figured now is the time to replace the thermostat and flush the system as well as new hoses and radiator.

 

This is what I do with it now:
Does that help you help me understand if I need to upgrade my radiator?

 

Koyo 1/2 size and a different thermostat.

 

If you are logging coolant temps at the track and you see that they are too high then its time to look into options to improve it. The question is, what do you guys consider too high? What temps are you seeing? If you are regularly seeing 215 or more then maybe its an option, but honestly if temps were in the 205-210 then you should be fine.