What motor build should go with the 6466?
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,139
Likes: 0
From: Fort Myers, FL
What motor build should go with the 6466?
I have a 6466. I have been thinking about my next motor build for this turbo set up. I already been down the 2.4 road. Don't want to do another 2.4. So that leaves me with doing a Built 2.0, 2.0LR, 2.3 or 2.3RPM. All these use a 2.0 block(4g63). I will be driving this on the weekends and go to the track every once in while. My Hp goals are 750-800 Hp or more if I can squeez it out. Track times I want to shoot for low 10's or even maybe a high 9. I mean a BIG maybe on the 9's. Ok prob I had before at the track I would run out of RPM's and that was with the 2.4 but I was running a FP Black at the time. And the rev limiter was set low any way. I want to make sure that this time around that the motor I am build can take the RPM's for Drag racing.
Questions:
Now I know what is in a 2.0. What makes a 2.0 Long rod though? What do I need to buy for a 2.0LR? Also when ordering rods what is better "I" or "H" beam? Pistions what Comp ratio? I will be running both 93 oct and e85. So would I be ok with 9.0:1? I hear 10:1 and higher is made for more e85 and race fuel. Is that right? Ok now the 2.3. The 2.3 is just changing the crank to a 100mm instead of using the stock 88mm crank. Right? And making that a RPM motor it is putting a lite 100mm crank in there. Right? So we are looking at 2.0 and 2.3 is regular stock crank size and weight. And the 2.3RPM is using a lite aftermarket crank. The 2.0LR is the stock crank size with a longer rod. Right? What would it be if I put an lite aftermarket crank in a 2.0LR? What would that make it? Would that good to do?
I have seen more 2.0's with the 6466 turbo than any other build. Is this because it can handle the RPM's? Also need this build to last me a while. Thank you all for reading my post. Hope I didn't ramble on to much. Hope the people out there in Evoland can help me on my next build. Thanks
Questions:
Now I know what is in a 2.0. What makes a 2.0 Long rod though? What do I need to buy for a 2.0LR? Also when ordering rods what is better "I" or "H" beam? Pistions what Comp ratio? I will be running both 93 oct and e85. So would I be ok with 9.0:1? I hear 10:1 and higher is made for more e85 and race fuel. Is that right? Ok now the 2.3. The 2.3 is just changing the crank to a 100mm instead of using the stock 88mm crank. Right? And making that a RPM motor it is putting a lite 100mm crank in there. Right? So we are looking at 2.0 and 2.3 is regular stock crank size and weight. And the 2.3RPM is using a lite aftermarket crank. The 2.0LR is the stock crank size with a longer rod. Right? What would it be if I put an lite aftermarket crank in a 2.0LR? What would that make it? Would that good to do?
I have seen more 2.0's with the 6466 turbo than any other build. Is this because it can handle the RPM's? Also need this build to last me a while. Thank you all for reading my post. Hope I didn't ramble on to much. Hope the people out there in Evoland can help me on my next build. Thanks
If I were you I'd send Dave Buschur a pm or call their shop. They will listen to what you want out of the car and give you recommendations.
Here is a little reading you can do as well.
https://secure.buschurracing.com/cat...91442a8d963c31
I'd say go with the 2.0 though if this is going to be a strictly drag car.
Here is a little reading you can do as well.
https://secure.buschurracing.com/cat...91442a8d963c31
I'd say go with the 2.0 though if this is going to be a strictly drag car.
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,139
Likes: 0
From: Fort Myers, FL
If I were you I'd send Dave Buschur a pm or call their shop. They will listen to what you want out of the car and give you recommendations.
Here is a little reading you can do as well.
https://secure.buschurracing.com/cat...91442a8d963c31
I'd say go with the 2.0 though if this is going to be a strictly drag car.
Here is a little reading you can do as well.
https://secure.buschurracing.com/cat...91442a8d963c31
I'd say go with the 2.0 though if this is going to be a strictly drag car.
How long is the rod in a 2.0 Long rod build?
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,139
Likes: 0
From: Fort Myers, FL
What he said ^^^ no need for an aftermarket crank unless u just want to spend some more money or unless your stock crank is damaged beyond repair. Cost effective wise just build a 2.0L IMO as far as cost to reliability since u already have a 4g63 block it's the best combo. As far as reliability and longevity goes u can only make an 800 plus 4 cyl last so long. Physics is inevitable, if u drive the dog crap out of a car that makes 800 hp without keeping a close eye on everything like logging data and checking plugs and keeping the oil level up and changing the oil frequently among other things, it ain't gonna last very long, and even if u do all those things it's gonna need some rod bearings after awhile. You may know all these things already, I just see a lot of people that read the forums and see all these cars making big numbers and don't realize the maintenance required to obtain one.
The 2.3/2.4 are for the street and while they make them lots of fun are really limited in the rpm dept for the trap speed/e.t. you want to run. LR2.0 is just 100% unneeded. It doesnt make more power because of the 156mm rod, you dont need something for 11,500rpm redline unless it has a dry sump as well, or you are running a GT45R.
I run a 2.4 since I street race and want response with a large turbo and good pumpgas power. Bigger motors make better power per psi of boost but ultimately have headgasket issues unless you know how to build it. You can regear the final drive and run tall tires but that can make launching a little more difficult till you get the finesse of the taller final drive.
Aaron
Take a look at BRs website and the highboost link he has on his short blocks page. Then take a look at STMs builds and the HP/tq they produce from setups and time slips. All of the cars coming out of that shop are well put together and run extremely fast times.
Looking at most of the builds coming from them they us the BR2.0LR with aluminum rods and PTE turbos, anywhere from 6262 to the 6766. Hard to question their builds based on the track times, all their cars perform very well.
Looking at most of the builds coming from them they us the BR2.0LR with aluminum rods and PTE turbos, anywhere from 6262 to the 6766. Hard to question their builds based on the track times, all their cars perform very well.
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,139
Likes: 0
From: Fort Myers, FL
For a drag car (which is definitely your stated goal) the 2.0L and a ton of boost.
The 2.3/2.4 are for the street and while they make them lots of fun are really limited in the rpm dept for the trap speed/e.t. you want to run. LR2.0 is just 100% unneeded. It doesnt make more power because of the 156mm rod, you dont need something for 11,500rpm redline unless it has a dry sump as well, or you are running a GT45R.
I run a 2.4 since I street race and want response with a large turbo and good pumpgas power. Bigger motors make better power per psi of boost but ultimately have headgasket issues unless you know how to build it. You can regear the final drive and run tall tires but that can make launching a little more difficult till you get the finesse of the taller final drive.
Aaron
The 2.3/2.4 are for the street and while they make them lots of fun are really limited in the rpm dept for the trap speed/e.t. you want to run. LR2.0 is just 100% unneeded. It doesnt make more power because of the 156mm rod, you dont need something for 11,500rpm redline unless it has a dry sump as well, or you are running a GT45R.
I run a 2.4 since I street race and want response with a large turbo and good pumpgas power. Bigger motors make better power per psi of boost but ultimately have headgasket issues unless you know how to build it. You can regear the final drive and run tall tires but that can make launching a little more difficult till you get the finesse of the taller final drive.
Aaron
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,139
Likes: 0
From: Fort Myers, FL
Take a look at BRs website and the highboost link he has on his short blocks page. Then take a look at STMs builds and the HP/tq they produce from setups and time slips. All of the cars coming out of that shop are well put together and run extremely fast times.
Looking at most of the builds coming from them they us the BR2.0LR with aluminum rods and PTE turbos, anywhere from 6262 to the 6766. Hard to question their builds based on the track times, all their cars perform very well.
Looking at most of the builds coming from them they us the BR2.0LR with aluminum rods and PTE turbos, anywhere from 6262 to the 6766. Hard to question their builds based on the track times, all their cars perform very well.
What is the Rod length in a LR2.0? Is it 156mm?






