I have never had such a hard time getting this thing to go back in....

The sub frame hits the back OR the shifter assembly hits the motor mount bracket.....

Trying to do this without damaging the Ring on the pressure plate but **** is this annoying...

Anyone have any adivse on this other then me cussing at it for 2 days straight? My 03 was way easier for some reason probably cause the retarded acd/ayc pump crap in the way.

Remove th subframe, thats what I am gonna do next time.

Set the back of the car up a bit higher than the front.

Are you doing this by yourself ? On your back in your garage? I don't think that's happening unless you can bench press 250+ lbs comfortably.. I only say this because I've don't this multiple times, lift or in the garage on jack stands. It's almost impossible to do by your self, get a helping hand. Utilize a jack, relieve the majority of the weight there, you should just direct the transmission on to the outputs shaft. Work smarter not harder It will make life MUCH easier and most likely save that "ring" or wave lock retaining clip.. If you need another one of those, Exedy makes them all BTW (ie for ACT and such). STM has them in stock.

I always lower the sub frame about an inch by loosening the 6 bolts. Have you tried doing that?

Its on a trans jack but I am doing this all alone because all my friends are to damn lazy...., Can I remove the subframe without taking the steering rack out...?

Just had this issue when reinstalling the trans. Best thing to do is if you're standing over the driver side fender, pivot the trans roughly 45* toward the front of the car. Lift it up, slide it in the clutch and when it gets about an inch away from the block, pivot the trans back to 0* and slide her all the way on

Ive done so many clutches on DSMs and Evos by myself. Cherry picker on one of bolts for the shifter cables. One of the holes on both DSMs and Evo are nearly perfectly balanced.

On the Evo I lift it up with the input shaft facing forward and once clear of the subframe I rotate and install. I haven't struggled with a trans in half a decade once I learned this (Thanks Brian!)

Two of the bolts that hold the shifter shafts on have a little bracket with a hole in it. Cherry picker attatched to that bracket holds the trans perfectly

Ok i did this probably azz backwards... had the transfercase hole's on the transmission below the subframe, snapped the TOB on then pushed with my feet on the tranny toward the front of the car and had my buddy start lifting the trans jack until I could rotate it. Last time i did this I pulled the motor and I remember why lol.

Pay them to help in beer haha You need it.. But dropping the subframe requires you to disconnect the steering rack. While being easy to do, putting it back together is the PITA. Aligning the spline's on the steering rack (ie input shaft from steering wheel -> rack) is a b****. Most likely you'll never be able to align them correctly and your alignment/ steering wheel will be messed up indefinitely.. Especially if you are doing this by yourself. I wouldn't recommend this way for the DIY'er in the garage, ever.

You're heading in the right direction now, with the trans jack. Or get a cherry picker, like the others were mentioning. Although, if you're not prepared to make that investment (i.e. only doing this once), it can definitely be done without. Just be patient and dont get frustrated lol its definitely a PITA. Also the wave lock retaining clip usually gets jacked up during the trials of your install. Make sure its in good condition before you install the trans. You'll be more pissed off, if you have to do it TWICE

take out radiator, move engine towards as much as possible, get a jack and it will bolt right in

This plus removing the radiator and using a block of wood behind the block to the subframe to hold it forward and you will have lots of room. Try the forward facing then rotate mode like Dallas J suggested too. I have done it twice on my back and I would rather pull the whole motor/trans as a unit than the trans alone

what batty said pull the engine forward maybe with a ratchet strap or the block of wood method and get a cherry picker and let her pick the trans for you from the top bracket. it will be balanced perfectly for you. hope this helps i have done this many times by my self and actually have to tackle this job in a week or 2 again.

this trans is cake compared to a mazda speed 6, i had to Egyption style that basterd out and in, with a make shift system of 2x4s and jacks.

Use a jack with a peice of wood on it for support, drop the subframe down with removing the bolt leave the front two bolts in [it wont drop all the way down anyway steering rack] remove the trans mount completly, Release the ring, ease her out. Dont pry on the case btw. Idk its pretty cut and dry.

its best to use two jacks, and dont forget to support the engine. You can adjust the angle of the engine to help you get it out and past the frame.
I do it at my job now but i do use forklifts and jacks to cradle it out. I also use forklifts to lift the car to working height with fork expanders.
good luck