Ya there are defferent spring stiffness to put in the bc. i believe there was 3 when I bought mine, it came in the kit.

 

If your willing to make the drive i would be willing to help you since your kind of local. Sounds to me like you hhave a possible boost leak and a leak pre turbo. Not always do boost leaks cause slow spool, mostly it is due to a leak pre turbo in your exhaust. I would check for hairline cracks in the manifold or a blown gasket.

 

did a boost leak test and found one at the turbo outlet. That place has been problematic for me. There was one there a while back I THOUGHT I fixed, but apparently it came back. UPDATE Did a pull and I'm still having the same problem, it gets to around 21-23 psi and thats all it will do. Could the wastegate flapper be broken? IDK what else to check. It cant be the WGA b/c even if I take the line off it still wont pass 23psi. I'm stumped...

 

Did you try what I asked you to try in an earlier reply (post # 14)? That is, did you rotate the MBC'ds adjustment knob all the way out counterclockwise, to the lowest possible boost setting (-) followed by a WOT pull?

Do this test and note the boost reading. This will give us an accurate idea of WG spring pressure.

 

Up to what PSI did you run the boost leak test?

 

Again I had the same problem on my ef3, a pin in the compresor housing was bent which caused me to lose preload and wouldn't make boost past 20psi if that at times. Called MAP and the fixed or under warranty I would give them a call and describe the issue they have really good service

 

DSMguy86, occasionally it will get up to 24ish? if I can't find anything I'll def send it to MAP to check it out. Just wanted to try a few other things before pulling it off. SPARKY thats basically like running a line from turbo straight to the WGA right? I did that and it sticks solid at 10psi and the turnbuckle is all the way down. BLT was done to 30psi.

 

Ok buddy yea mine acted very similar I went from having 27lbs to 19 maybe 22 at times. Also check your preload on the wga arm and see if you can hear if your wg flapper is not seating right at idle, you'll hear like metal tapping I know when it happened to me I had some pretty bad shaft play as well. Good luck man hope you figure it out

 

I'm using a stock 9 WGA right now as the Forge one I have had a torn diaphragm and I'm getting it fixed. The turnbuckle is all the way down and if I run a line from the WGA to turbo is only gets to 10psi, shouldn't it be higher than that?

 

Is the backup nut still on there behind the turnbuckle? If so, remove it and try rotating the turnbuckle down a few more threads.

If the backup nut is already removed and once the tip of the actuator rod bottoms out inside the turnbuckle, then you are gonns have to cut 3-4 threads off the tip of the actuator rod. The stock actuator is wimpy.

 

the nut is still on there, ill take it off and see what happens. EDIT: Its seems that removing the nut will not allow the turnbuckle to go down any further so I guess ill have to cut it down.

 

Here I am assuming that your turbo is fitted with a stock MHI WGA. What WGA does your EF3 have on it anyway? Is it a stock MHI actuator, or the MAP actuator? The MAP actuator has different internal springs available, I think. Maybe you just need the stiffer spring from MAP.

 

The stock one is on it now, but I have a 25psi Forge one that I'm having repaired to go back on the EF3.

 

Yeah. You are gona have to cut 1/4" of actuator rod length, about 4 threads.

 

A new, stock WGA allows the flapper to go full open somewhere around 10# if the turnbuckle is adusted with zero preload. Although, this can vary depending on several factors.

In actuality it is labeled a 14# spring but installed on the turbo and the turbo mounted to the manifold, and with the engine running, it achieves equilibrium and allows complete flapper valve movement in the 10-12# range. So it has a pretty wimpy spring/diaphragm combo.

Being that the spring is wimpy, over time, and with repeated use and heatcycling, the spring takes a set. Just as worn suspension springs allow a car to sag and float over bumps. Likewise, the actuator spring loses resistance over time, allowing the flapper valve to lift at lower levels of seat pressure.